2nd Top Case Install, Damaged DC-in Plug on Logic Board. FIXED!
Third attempt to get my water damaged MBP 13 Mid 2010 going.
1. I cleaned logic board after water damage as suggested from my first post. MBP started but trackpad erratic, some keys didn't work and power button did not work.
2. Installed first replacement upper case as suggested in my second post. MBP worked fine except for power button and need to jump start.
3. Installed second upper case today and can't get it to start. I checked the battery level before I did the install, and I had used the MBP earlier today. I saved all my data, closed all my applications, and shut down. I disassembled from 1st upper case and reassembled into replacement upper case. I closed it up and tried to power up. No luck, so I tried to jump start it and nothing happened. I then checked battery power and nothing. I connected mag safe charger and no light and unable to jump start.
I looked through the forums and rechecked all my connections twice. I checked my dc-in board's wires to make sure they weren't damaged / broken- twice. Tried to do the SMC reset several times. I'm not getting anything. Could I have shorted the battery or mag safe? As it turns out, I bent the pins when I was checking DC-in board. The two pictures show the connector, located on upper left corner, above speaker. Other photo is from top view, looking into connector.
Here are the pictures of my fix. I trimmed a bit of the casing with a razor blade because I couldn't get to the pins with forceps or a paper clip. I used a sewing machine needle(?) that was lying around to move the pins enough to use a spudger, paper clip, and the tweezers from the ifixit tool set to straighten pins. This also helped insert the DC-in board connector more easily. The fix worked. MBP is now charging. Thanks to all for your help.
If I understand your last update you need a new DC-in board, which if you are willing to DIY you can replace for a lot less than Apples' quoted repair price. This is an advanced DIY repair.
Only you know if you can DIY - or pay someone less than Apple wants to do the repair.
If you are going to DIY obtain all the recommended tools, study (not just read)the guide before beginning. Keep track of all the screws
If this answer is acceptable please remember to return and mark it.
DSCantu, looks kind of bad;-) No matter how you look at ti, that connector does not work the way it is. So, you could try and move the pins back up with a pair of small hemostats and a needle or some other small instrument. Biggest issues here is that they can beak off due to metal fatigue. If that does not work, you may have to solder a new connector to the board. The connector itself is a Molex 78048-0573. If you can not find the right connector, you could have someone solder the DC-in board cable directly to the rear contacts on the connector. That would obviously be the last and least best solution. Hope this helps, good luck.