Updated version of the original iPad 2, released in March of 2012 with a smaller die processor and updated internal construction. Repair will require the use of heat and careful prying.

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No Backlight after digitizer replacement Help!

Hi, I just replaced the digitizer on a friend's ipad, and being my first time I disconnected the screen with a metal screwdriver (big mistake). The iPad boots and I can see the Apple logo perfectly, but then, when it gets to the lockscreen it turns pretty dark, I can only see something with a flashlight. Any idea as of what to do now?

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I guess I should be able tu just jump the shorted part.

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The best thing to try first is a hard restore which if the digi is still off touch both probes with something metal inside under the lcd by where the home button is. If there was any damage to the digitizer flaps (FPC's) than that is a bigger problem and will require a soldering repair. Was the device powered off when you took the lcd and digi off?

Update this to let me know what happened Please!

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I already did a reset, still no luck. The iPad was off when I removed the digi and the LCD, but I think my mistake was to remove the LCD latch with a screwdriver. Any thoughts? I forgot to say that the figi is working well, the only problem is the backlight

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Okay try disconnecting the battery from the motherboard. If this doesn't work it means you have to replace a coil and the black light chip. That involves some very complicated soldering.

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That is sad, removing the battery didn't worked either. Which chip and which coil would I need? Do you have the schematics?

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And is there any way to just jump the shorted parts?

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Your backlight filter isn't fully blown but has too high of a resistance. That's why you can see the apple logo at first but dies during the iOS screen. You can test with a meter (resistance value of .2-.3 ohms). If its out of spec, you could jumper it but its easier and overall safer to replace. I have replaced lots of these. You can email me if you need service.

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I would surely like to get help from you, but I guess it will be quiet hard, since I am in Mexico. So I guess I will either have to look for someone near me or do it myself. So I should only replace the filter? Or also the chip?

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Well you need to test before you replace. The filter is not directional. It doesn't make a difference in the reading which ever side you touch with your meters leads. It should always be the same reading .2-.3 ohms.

The backlight ic chip is a 2 lead black chip marked with a JH. It is directional. The positive lead has to be on the chip lead closer to the the JH label. A resistance check should reveal 160-190 ohms.

The backlight coil is labeled 4r7.... It's square and silver. Should be non directional with a resistance value of .2-.3 ohms. I suspect it's fine as your backlight does fire up.

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And how do I remove the shielding over the logic board? Hehe, I didn't think of that before.

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Hi yaya, I am getting 469 ohms across the backlight ic chip, is this bad?

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just disconnect the battery and leave it for about 10 seconds and connect again....i did it to mine when replaced the touch screen and worked...!!!

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OP mentioned that he already tried this.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/iPad-2-L... This easy fix worked for me.

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Rodrigo Alatorre will be eternally grateful.
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