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Does not drain the water at the end of cycle

My dishwasher seems to function normally. The dishes seem clean, but the water from the last cycle remains in after it has stopped. The water is clear. I have read the manual and reset the system several times. When I press the cancel button to flush out the remaining water in the morning, you can hear the water being pumped out, and it sounds like the pump is working well.

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Thanks for all the suggestions! I will work on it soon and see if any of these work.

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I had this problem, and after spending a couple of hours taking everything apart and cleaning it, I saw a posting about the check valve assembly that is located right near the motor. I took it off and found a grapefruit seed was lodged in there and preventing the water from flowing through the assembly. Diagnosis is often the most time consuming and difficult part of a fix. Had I known this was the problem, I could have corrected it about one half hour. From now on, my wife and I are going to rinse all dishes prior to putting them in the dishwasher. Lesson learned!!

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Most Maytag Dishwashers have a 4 second refill of fresh water at the cycle complete to keep the pump wet (seals). This may be heard with the solenoid energizing and the water flowing at the cycle end when running a rinse only cycle. Generally the water is barely visible if at all. On my MDB9600AWW, pushing the reset button once will start a cycle, second push begins drain for 2 min as displayed, then it will fill for the 4 seconds or so.

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My problem is similar but only occurs long after the cycle is completed. When the cycle is done, there is no water in the bottom. Hours later there will be an inch to 2 inches of clean water in the bottom. When I hit the Cancel . button, the water is pumped out into the garbage disposal fine and the bottom of the unit is clean. We is a new problem to the unit that has functioned for 8 years without issue. So I don't think it is a clogged hose or malfunctioning pump. Where would you suggest I start?

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The most likely cause is that a piece of debris from mineral deposits stuck in the inlet water valve. The opening in the valve is very small and it doesn't take much for a flake of the minerals to become lodged in there and cause a very slow leak of the water into the dishwasher tub. If this is the problem, you should be able to look inside the dishwasher at where the water enters the tub (usually on the left side wall of the tub) to see of there's a very slow leak coming from there. When things are working correctly (inlet valve not leaking) it should be dry. If you see any water at all coming from it then the inlet valve is leaking. Replacement is relatively easy and should not cost an arm and a leg to replace, and replacement is the best option in this case.

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Deck the Halls
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34 Answers

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It could be a clog in your drain. In my case, if I do not run the garbage disposal before the dishwasher, it will not drain properly (our dishwasher drain pipe connects to the drain at the garbage disposal).

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True, nice thinking.

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I agree with Chris...I too had a similar problem and it ended up being a clogged drain. After unclogging, it started to work properly again.

Good Luck!

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That is precisely why the disposal instructions tell you to leave the water running for 10 or 20 seconds after running. That serves two purposes. It rinses the debris out of the disposal, down the drain, and out of the "P" trap under the sink, and eliminates the possibility of that debris simply sitting in the lateral drain line or "P" trap and rotting and stinking things up in the sink.

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The original person with the problem said when they pushed the cancel/drain button it would drain so how could it be a clogged drain making it not drain?

My dishwasher leaves clear water in the bottom 2" every time it finishes and it ALWAYS drains when you push drain. How do I fix that problem?

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I am having the same problem, my water stays at the bottom but when i hit the start button and then cancel it drains, my pipes are clean and i have even put draino in it. still same problem.

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You haven't recently had a new garbage disposal installed? Because if you did, you might check to see that the knock-out plug was removed. It's right inside the nipple where the drain hose from the dishwasher attaches to the disposal. Sometimes folks forget to knock it out.

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nice work, thank you

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thats what i forgot to do and that was the trick!

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Nice one, I missed this also. I tend to not read the instructions. Thanks for posting.

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Did exactly the same thing. Now fixed in 5 minutes.. Thank you

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Brilliant! Thanks for the advice. Popped out plug and all is functioning as it should!

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I repair and resell used dishwashers as a retirement hobby. After having examined many dishwashers that were replaced because they wouldn't drain, the largest percentage of them were simply because of a clogged drain hose or pump strainer. Too many people seem to think that the dishwasher is first cousin to a garbage disposal. It is not. Even if the instructions state that you do not need to pre-rinse dishes, you should pre-rinse them anyway. The macerators in the dishwashers(the thing that grinds up the food particles, slightly similar to the one in a disposal) are designed to grind up small, soft bits of food, not leftover steak scraps, popsicle sticks, wire bag twist ties (or even plastic ones), paper and plastic jar lables, etc. Yes, I have found all this and more in the pumps). This stuff will clog or possibly destroy the pump/macerator assembly, resulting in a costly repair or replacement of the dishwasher. Sometimes, if enough garbage makes it past the pump and is drained, it begins to collect in the drain hose, and will slowly build up over time to the point where, lo and behold, it will no longer drain. easy fix for that is to first remove the drain hose end from the nipple it's connected to on the sink or disposal, put the end in a bucket, then fill and drain the dishwasher to see if a garbage clog will simply blow out. If that doesn't work, but you see a small dribble of water, you may have to pull the dishwasher out and remove the hose from it to clean it out. Don't forget that there's still water in the unit, so put a drain pan under it before removing the hose, or even better, if you have the unit completely out of it's hole, just tilt it onto it's back before pulling the hose. do not tilt it onto it's side or front, or you'll have the water running out, or into the door cavity, possibly doing damage to the controls.

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This was a very good analysis. I am a Handyman and

appreciate this article. I just installed in my rental property a very expensive LG dishwasher to help solve some of these problems. It is a new generation which doesn't have the agitator blades but a closed in system with a screen clean out. The unit is not draining completely. What do you think? Thank you

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I have very limited experience with LG dishwashers. I have actually only had one in the last 3+ years, and it actually had no problems. The first thing that comes to mind regarding your problem is that there is a restriction, and not a total blockage, of the drain line. As the unit is new, I would first check the connection to the drain pipe under the sink, or the air gap if there is one. If that's not an issue, my next thought would be that the drain pump is short cycling and not draining all the water before shutting off. As the unit is probably still under warranty, that would be the route to go for such a repair. One other thing that just popped into my mind would be that something has already managed to get lodged in the anti-backflow valve or the valve is factory defective and is allowing water in the drain hose to flow back into the sump when the drain cycle shuts off.

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Update. I recently had an almost new LG with the "water wall" system in it. According to a "leading consumer magazine", they are quite prone to having the filter screen in the bottom clog from debris in the wash water. The cure is to make sure that the dishes are pre-rinsed before they are put into the machine for washing.

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Don't forget to check the impeller. I have a Bosch and the plastic impeller separated from the base plate. Common on a Bosch

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This happened to me. Wound up changing the Drain Pump, and then the check Valve. STILL did not drain. WTF The round part of the check valve broke off, passed thru the Pump, and was lodged in the Hose. Tried to blow thru it. Could not. Picked it out with screw driver, and problem solved!!! This is a perfectly round piece of Black rubber lodged in the Black Rubber elbow fitting at the Pump end of the Hose. No need to pull out machine. Just stick your finger in and feel for it. Hope this helps. This is very unusual, and new for me.

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Check to see all of your filters are clear. There are float switches or sensors under the water that can get stuck down when they are dirty. After you reset the unit and the water has pumped out, go in with a screwdriver and remove all the covers and screens. Clean everything. If you have sensors or floats, clean them out too.

Be sure to remove all covers as fine particles can make it through some of the micron filters and clog pumps.

Let us know,

Regards

Frank

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I just installed a new garbage disposal because the last one developed a leak in the plastic casing.

Garbage disposal worked great, but my dishwasher filled up with water. I realized that I forgot to remove the stopper plug from the disposal! They make them with a plug in case you're not hooking up a dishwasher.

So if you just installed a new disposal and now your dishwasher is filling up with water, check to see if there's a plastic plug blocking your drain.

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Many thanks from a fellow flake! I was scratching my head staring at the hose, just about to order a new pump/piston.

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What do you mean ? Your advice makes little sense. I'm guessing you mean if the water can't be pumped out, but it has nothing to do with the action of filling. Because it'll fill as its suppose to, but never drain.

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If you can run the pump then most likely your pump is fine and there is no clogs etc.

The most probable cause is your timmer is not activating or telling the pump to come on. Most likely you would need to replace the timmer.

Best of luck

Steve

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Mine never drains when the cycle ends, it always has over an inch of clear water but it ALWAYS drains when I push "Cancel/Drain".

Must be the computer, there is no mechanical timer anymore. Perhaps a relay controlled but a microprocessor. I wish I knew how to diagnose it before I buy a new control panel or a new dishwasher.

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We have a GE dishwasher that is 7 or 8 years old. About 3/4 inch water was left on the bottom after the cycle completed. Our apartment building handyman replaced the piston [that pumps the water out]. It was a couple of small pieces of hard plastic so shouldn't be too expensive. Now it works fine.

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I don't think this has much to do with the never drains problem but it is a necessary thing to do for hygene.

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This was exactly the problem with my 15-year old GE Profile dishwasher. It cost me $100 to learn it. The part number is WD24X10018 Piston & Nut.

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somewhat the same as the earlier answer about routing the hose up in a loop. The water in your dishwasher is probably water coming back from the drain hose when the pump shuts off. Try the loop up as mentioned earlier first -its free. If that dosn't work check at hardware store for a check valve. Its just a "gate" that opens when water is being pumped but closes when pump goes off and prevents water draing back into machine.

GS

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Many dishwasher have an anti-backflow valve built into their drain hose or between the drain pump and hose. These valves are nothing more than a soft rubber flap that allows water to flow out to the drain and to keep what remains in the drain hose from flowing back into the dishwasher sump. Since the valve is soft and pliable, it's also subject to deterioration such as warpage or breaking completely off. Also, it's possible for a piece of debris in the water to get stuck in the valve and prop it open, also allowing drain water to flow back into the dishwasher.I have seen all of these problems numerous times on units I've worked on.

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semiretired48 can you tell me where that soft rubber flap gets attached to? I pulled it out of the drain hose when I disconnected the hose at the drain pump. It sounds like this is my issue and I need to put it back (but I don't know what it attaches to). Thanks in advance! I have an LG LDF7551ST dishwasher.

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Some are molded directly into the drain pump end of the drain hose. If it's broken, a new hose is necessary, Some fit into a plastic pipe like fitting coming off of the drain pump, and have a "T" shaped fitting molded onto one edge that fits into a like slot at the top of that fitting and can be easily put back in place. If the little molded "T" is missing, you 'll need a new flap.

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In our case, there was a small piece of a broken plate that stuck in the drain pump. I don't know how the piece got his way through the filters to the pump. There was a barely noticable cracking noise when the machine was triying to drain the water. We opened the draining pump, which was located at the bottom of the machine, and removed the piece. It was fine then.

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I had this problem once with my LG dishwasher and ended up replacing the sump assembly and few other parts, cleaned all components an pipes, nothing helped. But then I realized that I haven't checked the wires inside the door. Sure enough a couple of wires got glued to the door insulation due to heat and were torn when the door was opening/closing. One was a ground wire and the other was a white wire running all the way up to control box. Once I fixed the wires all started working properly.

I tend to agree with Mike B, if the water is clean at the end of a cycle and it is draining just fine at the beginning of the next cycle, the problem is likely not with filters or pump or hose configuration. It very well could be the timer, but it also could be the wire that runs the timer, or it could be some other control I am not aware of. But I would also agree with Gil in that it never hurts to run basic troubleshooting before rushing to the store like I did. At the end though we should be grateful for people like Mike B for offering worthwhile opinions that May or may not help and we should decide for ourselves on whether or not to accept the advice instead of making nuisance comments like the one above. Cheers

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Thank you so much this worked.....

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make sure your drain hose is routed all the way to the top of the counter top before it drops back down to were it hooks up to your drain under the sink. This will create a trap so that when the pump kicks off the waste water will not drain back into the dishwasher.

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Easy diagnosis on this one folks. If an inch or more water is present in the bottom after a completed cycle simply close the door and press the cycle start and press again to cancel. If the water is gone after the dishwasher completes the cancel cycle there's no problem with your pump, drain hose configuration or clogged filters. This will be a timer problem. If water remains then by all means you should check drain hose, pump, filters for proper operation.

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This is correct the pump is pumping out the water when cancle drain is pressed. There fore the pump is good and there is no clogs.

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Thanks for the suggestion. I have a KitchenAid Superba model that is 10 yrs old. Just started to leave about an inch of water in bottom at end of runs. Disassembled and cleaned out filter and chopper, etc. after reassembly still had problem. Disconnected drain hose from Insinkerator and ran to bucket. Ran rinse cycle and still had inch of water in bottom of washer even though had good flow through hose into bucket. Checked inlet opening on Insinkerator to make sure it was clear. Checked out ok. Reattached drain hose to Insinkerator. Ran a full wash cycle and when finished, still had inch of water in dishwasher pan. Started cycle then cancelled. When cancel cycle completed, water gone out of bottom of washer pan. Time to replace timer? How difficult is that?

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Before spending a fortune on a new motherboard (timer), you should check the drain pump and back flow valve for obstructions. It's highly improbable that the board is bad, or you'd be having other issues with the machine also. I'd first check the back flow valve, which may well be stuck open by some debris, and is thus allowing drain water at the end of the rinse cycle to run back into the sump once the drain pump finishes running.

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My Kenmore Elite does not drain at end of wash, as well. My other problem is... Mid-cycle when I push the cancel/ drain button and I hit START-- i only get a flashing indicator light on the start button ( it flashes a few times and turns off), as opposed to the solid indicator light I get when pushed to start any other cycle

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Thank you, this suggestion did the trick!

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I just solved my drainage problem by routing the hose connected to the garbage disposal unit to counter height to prevent water from draining back into the washer. I recently replaced my disposal unit and failed to route the drainage hose high enough to avoid water running back into the washer.

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Running the drain pipe up higher would still leave all the water in the drain hose to this height run back into the dishwasher . Unless a check valve is between the pump and this line.

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If water is left standing in your machine, there is a couple things to immediately do, first I went and got out my carpet cleaner, took attachment off the hand wand, and sucked the water out. (You may have to empty it once or twice before you have all the water out) while vacuuming water out I took the filters off and vacuumed the pump recess area, now I had a dry dishwasher in which to work on. This vacuuming actually would fix it for a while and I would find small debris of what I think is scaling, hard water deposits, and unit would run for another month or two then clog again. The last time I did this I then used a tool and pryed around and found a large peice of debris that was slowing down the process to the point of either leaving a little water, or blocking with other debris.

Now it's fixed. My advice though is to use a wet vac, or even carpet vac, to empty to the pump, and even vacuum the pump area, you may get lucky if it's debris, but at least you'll be able to see what is going on.

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Been working fine since, I think the scale buildup while house was in escrow led to the then loosening of scale once used again.

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In my DW, there was a valve that when it was cracked/not sealing kept it from pumping out of the tub. A trip to appliance repair supply with model number, a few dollars later and an hour of replacing it was all it needed to work great.

The valve is used to switch from pumping inside the DW to pumping down the drain.

Hope that helps.

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I've always thought that people who had nothing better to do than sit at their computer and get into arguments on chat groups were pretty pathetic so please don't take me wrong Michael B. but I really don't like this answer, and its liable to lead someone to purchase a timer unnecessarily and they usually won't take them back. It would mean the timer was failing in some very unlikely ways--pump running fast, times out too soon ?? contacts partly broken off ,pump not running long enough ?? its so unlikely that its a timer, I wouldn't even mention it. Emptying washer by running a bit extra doesn't prove anything, it could still be a clog or a kinked hose or even the pump, the machine ran longer and finally managed to pump the rest of the water. Plus if you went back to cycle start its added more water so who knows , even if it pumped everything out this time there could be any one of several cause's still waiting to bite. No I still think the first cause most often is flow back from the drain and there are several possible reasons for that. Defective or no vacuum break, kinked or plugged hose or pump, funky drain configuration when sharing drain with disposals double sinks etc. Sorry my friend, but it's just not valid troubleshooting. respectfully GS.

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um, i think mine is the timer..... the only time I can get it to change freq. (hear the pump go dry, hear water stop in drain while machine still running) is to hit our rocker stop start switch on wall, otherise it leaves a little too much. or, seems on rinse cycle it leaves water in there and not on reg wash? i cant figure it out, but timer is something I hadnt really thought of besides glossing over. lines are clear and vacumm break installed correctly.

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If the water drains out fully and properly at the end of the pre-rinse, wash and final rinse cycles, but only remains in the tub at the very end prior to the heated dry turning on, then it's for sure not the pump, cuz it just worked fine three times, and it's not the solenoid because it just worked fine for three times, and it's not a clogged hose and it's not a clogged disposal. The only other component in the loop is the timer. If the timer contacts don't connect and signal drain operation at only one of three positions then it must be the timer that's faulty.

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Yes mine always drains pre-rinse, wash and final rinse but remains full when the heater is supposed to be running. It ALWAYS drains the full 2" out right down to the bottom of the sump if I push the "Cancel/Drain" button.

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I read somewhere, in the context of a particular dishwasher model, that the unit purposely fills the tub with an inch of water at the end of a cycle, in order to keep the rubber seals wet. If that's the case with your dishwasher, then there's nothing to worry about.

Aug 9, '16 jrg

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I've worked on hundreds of dishwashers of almost every (US) brand over the last 4+ years, and I've never come across any that leave enough water in the sump that can be seen at the end of the wash unless there was a blockage problem or a defective drain pump. Water remaining at the finish of the wash should be in the sump only and not visible in the bottom of the unit.

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My unit will empty about half. I checked the pump.. nope, I checked the timer by watching a clock and comparing to the designed timing cycles... no problem

I blew air in the drain line... seemed like no issue

Problem went away and then came back a week later?

I took the drain line out and found a pistachio shell in the drain line. It was acting like a check valve. When water flowed it would pivot in the line and close it off. LOL

removed it.. all good

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Another possibility is that your drain pump is stalling. The usual design is with a rotor containing a permanent magnet. If the bearings are sticky then the rotor sometimes doesn't return correctly to the park position which means the pump stalls when it tries to run again.

If your pump is like this then unscrew it (usually 3 screws), pull the rotor assembly out of the housing, clean and grease the bearings then reassemble.

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Many of the newer model machines have a twist off drain pump that requires that you simply push down a small plastic locking tab at the top of the pump assembly and rotate it counter clockwise to remove.

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Thank you! I was not pushing down. This was very helpful!

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My spins freely and nothing is clogged but at the end during the drying cycle the tub is full of water above the heater. Pushing the "Cancel/Drain" button always fully empties it.

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@k1uhf First thing I'd check in your case would be the anti-backflow valve, which, depending on model of the dishwasher, could be in either the end of the drain hose nearest the drain pump/outlet or in the output end of the drain pump itself. They are (usually) made of rubber, and years of being subjected to hot water and dishwasher soap will sometimes cause them to warp or break completely off, allowing water in the drain hose to run back into the tub at the end of the wash. It's also possible that a piece of debris is stuck in the valve flap and holding it open, causing the same end result.

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I am experiencing the same problem as k1uhf. If the anti-backflow valve is defective and allowing water to drain back into the tub at the end of the cycle, why doesn't any water drain back in after a "Cancel/Drain" operation?

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Check for a clogged up air gap.

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Thanks to Al Seaver's post, I found the fortitude to attempt another repair. I unhooked the drain hose from the disposal and short cycled the DW. A trickle of water came out. So the pump might be OK. I reached deep into the DW drain and removed an olive pit and two pieces if broken glass. Yes, I sliced open the top if my finger even with a rubber glove on. Careful!

I then short cycled the DW twice more and lookout! Water came out so fast and so much that I had to scramble for additional bowls. A huge plug of pasta-looking material popped out. The odor like vomit has almost overwhelming, but I pulled through. My 11 year old GE DW lives to clean another day, week, month, year...?

Thanks much Internet!

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That "pasta looking" debris that came out of the hose was simply soap debris that has collected in the ribbing in the drain hose after years of use. Nothing to be concerned with. It just got pushed loose by the sudden flow of water in the hose.

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LOL, ok yeah it didn't sound like he was concerned about the slime plug that blew out....he was simply stating that he had such good water flow through the line, it blew out the nastiness built up from years of weak waste water flow.

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If your sink is equipped with an air gap drain attachment (normally it is the silver cylinder next to the faucet) this is the most likely place for a no drain issue. Remove the metal outer piece to access the plastic inner drain assembly, the top of this will also need to be removed by prying it off with a firm grasp and a back and forth motion or if it has a spherical top it will screw off. (Keep tying it will come off). Inside you will see a small opening or hose; this is the drain coming from the dishwasher and it dumps the drain water into the large hose which then goes into the disposal / drain, any obstructions to this hose and the dishwasher will only drain partially or not at all.

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There could be a couple of things to matter. It can be possible that the drain is partially blocked.There is some debris or garbage in the bottom of the cycle. You can just clean that I am sure it will be resolved.

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MY disposal was full of debris, food etc. My DW used the overflow on the top of sink. You would think it was stopped up but ran the disposal and DW drained perfect there after.

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Another good idea for the units that drain into a disposal is to run the disposal as the dishwasher is draining into it after the first wash. That helps to keep both the disposal and it's drain line clear. And despite what the dishwasher manufacturers tell you, you really should give dishes a quick pre-rinse before putting them in the dishwasher. This greatly reduces the chance for a clog in the dishwasher drain line and disposal.

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Thats complete B.S.....if you have to do more then scrape the plates, something isnt right.

It's absolutely pointless to have a machine if you have to wash the dishes prior to washing the dishes. That'd be a complete waste of time & energy. Plus why would a person lay down $500 on something that washes nearly clean dishes??

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If you still have enough water in the bottom of the unit that you can see it, that would explain the dishes still being wet. The Dryer comes on, and once it gets hot, begins to create steam that keeps everything wet. It's possible that the anti-backflow valve is stuck open and allowing water that's still in the drain hose to flow back into the dishwasher once it's done its complete cycle. The valve has a soft rubber flap inside that, depending on age, make, and composition of it, may be a bit warped or deteriorated, or my be stuck open due to a piece of debris being stuck in it. This would be the first thing I would check since you say that the dishes are clean but still damp. Also, as others have mentioned, if the disposal (if you have one) has debris stuck in it, water can collect there and flow backwards into the machine. When we still had a disposal (removed it because disposals are no good for septic systems) I always tried to make sure to run it while wash water was draining from the dishwasher. That helps to keep the disposal clean and clear and draining properly, and keeps the lateral line from the disposal to the drain clear also. Incidentally, another good way to clean out a disposal is to use ice cubes. just remove the black rubber guard from the sink drain, fill the disposal with lots of is turn on the water and then the disposal and let it run till the ice is all gone. It's amazing just how much crud can build up in a disposal, which also causes odors after a time also. Plus, the ice helps to keep the grinder blades sharp.

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Recent came across a dw with water in the bottom of the machine (not draining), a quick check of the Internet revealed that I should check the water level float in the machine, sure enough it was stuck due to a build up of salts and detergents over time

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Al can you tell me where can I find that soft rubber flap? I found mine lodged in the drain hose at the drain pump and I don't know where to put it....LG LDF7551ST

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Some of the flaps are built into the drain pump end of the drain hose. If that's the case, the only fix is a new hose. If the flap has a small kind of "T" shaped appendage on one edge, then it is most likely from the plastic pipe appendage attached to the output of the drain pump. There should be a molded in spot at the inside top of the fitting that matches the little molded "T" on the edge of the flap , and it can simply be pressed back in place with your finger.

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we just installed new Kitchenaid dishwasher on our own. We connected it to a new plastic pipe that came with the unit and connected that to the black tubing which goes to an air gap and then to the garbage disposal. After installation we ran our first load. All seemed well until the next morning when I went to unload dished I can see water standing in the bottom (soapy). I shut the unit and tried to drain several times. I can hear the pump turning on but no water is entering the tubing. We did not previously have drainage issues so I don't believe it is any blockages (but I am planning on checking). I am thinking it is the pump since no water is even entering the lines.

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You need to pull off the drain hose and check the down inside the rubber end of it for and debris blockage. Just being a new machine doesn't mean it can't already be blocked. Also check to see if the air gap hoses are blocked with deposits from years of use.

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I think i know the problem and solution to the water left in the tub after the full cycle. I tried all the various solutions mentioned on the internet with no improvement. I had to take the dishwasher out for another reason and decided to see what may be causing the issue since hitting cancel and drain cleared all water from the machine. I assumed that all was clear and that the timer may be at fault. However, taking the drain hose off and seeing how dirty (looking at hose from outside) it was, led me to just buy a new one. I found out that the drain cycle is timed and not dependant on water sensor to complete draining. I now theorize (am engineer) that the timer stopped the drain cycle too soon and the restricted drain hose wouldn't let enough water out in the time allowed. Starting it again allowed purging the water that was left. Installed new drain hose and problem was solved. Hope this helps and explains the cancel/drain cycle working.

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I could not figure this out and finally replaced the pump and it still would not drain. I finally pulled the dishwasher out and laid it on its back and pulled off the drain tube connected to the bottom of the dishwasher. I blew in it and air would barely go through. The problem was that the flap that prevents water from flowing back in the dishwasher had come through the small opening and was on the wrong side. I pushed it back through and now everything works fine. I would guess that there was enough backpressure from the garbage disposal when it was full of food to grind that it pushed that valve through. You do not need to pull the whole dishwasher out to fix this but I was at a point of checking everything so that is why I did. Could have been much cheaper as it only took me a couple of minutes to push the valve back through. I will see how it works out as I am not sure if the valve has been damaged. If it is then I will need to replace the hose. At least I know what to look for now.

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I had a similar issue where a small piece of bone was clogging the check valve, after clearing the debris the next cycle drained perfectly. Also I never changed my pump, so I would try this first.

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Nice. Mine is working like new now. I have an extra pump as well.

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Glen I found a flap lodged in my drain hose at the drain pump but I do not know where to put it. Can you describe where I need to put the flap? LG LDF722ST.

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We are in Africa and so have unreliable power. When there was a power cut during the night the whole machine will of course turn off. When the power returned the machine does not automatically start up and so looks like its finished its cycle. When my wife opened it up in the morning there was a load water at the bottom. I started to read all the internet solutions such as this forum, but in the end I just turn it on again and it remembered which part of cycle its on and finished :)

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LOL, ok then terrific.

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New garbage disposal, and I forgot to remove the knockout inside the dishwasher drain inlet.

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I had the same problem. Water left in diswasher after the normal wash cycle. When I ran the rinse cycle the water pumped out. What was happening was my GE dishwasher was draining out after the wash cycle but the water inlet valve was letting water back in. So when I let it run through the wash cycle I would check it a little while after it complete the cycle. The clean light was on and the water came back in through the intake valve. When I run the rinse cycle the water still pumps out but if I leave the DW set for 15 minutes with the door open the water,comes back. I need a new intake valve.

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Found pieces of rubber band and and a cherry pit in the pump........

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Don't think you're supposed to be washing those. Unless you're a rubber band and cherry pit collector, of course.

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Yeah if you simply wash your dishes real good before you put them in the dishwasher to wash them, then you'll never find anything clogging any part of the machine.

Problem solved.

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Struggled with the pump running but only a trickle of water coming out of the drain hose. Didn't think that I had a drain back valve but after reading a few posts on here realized that the newer dishwashers have a flap in the drain hose at the pipe and rubber fitting end. Stuck a flexible pipe in and found a piece of plastic label caught in the flap area. Pulled it out and re ran the drain and it emptied completely. No idea how it would be possible to get past the screen and the filter, but fished it out and all is good now. Thanks for all the advise guys. Saved me a bunch of money on new parts and repairmen.

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Had this problem too. Emptied the bottom of the dish washer with small jug then soaked up the the remaining water with towel, took of the small pump cover with Allen key only to find a small piece of kebab stick stuck in the pump fan. Removed tiny stick re assembled and dish washer works a dream, crystal clear glasses an dishes and quick drying, happy man even happier wife.

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You should NEVER, EVER wash kabab sticks in the dishwasher !!!

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I also have water left sitting at the end of the wash cycle. I can drain the water by hitting cancel and putting the drain hose onto a bucket, but it does not drain into the garbage disposal though.

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Gary will be eternally grateful.
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