Computers that generally don't include an integrated display, and are meant to be stationary.

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PC doesn't completely power on

It started happening this morning, when I turned on the PC, it powered on and turned off, then again and again. It went on for a while and then I turned off the PC. It did the same thing when I turned it on again, more quickly. I made a video to show you it, now the led of the power on button almost doesn't turn on.

You should hear the noise of the PC that powers on and off too.

The video:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6hlY2Qy...

Thank you for the help!!!

UPDATE

Here the images of the open PSU

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Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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have you checked your CPU fan as well as your PSU? the noise could be a fan or the hard drive. Need to either see or hear more to make sure....

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Yes, It's the fan that makes the noise. I spotted a lot of dirt too, could be that the problem???

The hard disk as well as the others drives are ok.

I tried to make another video but there is too noise around. I'll try again later.

Thanks :)

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Which fan is it? The PSU fan or the CPU fan?

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Ok, both the fans are dirty, the noise comes from the PSU. I can't see inside the PSU, should I open it and make a photo? (without touching anything obviusly).

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It does sound and look like a bad PSU. Photos may help and do not touch anything inside the PSU. The capacitors will hold a charge for a good while, and touching those may be a "shocking" experience. What make and model is your PC.

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Chosen Solution

Giovanni Riva, thank you for the images. The 4th image definitely shows a broken capacitor. Figure 1 in the attached images shows a capacitor with open vents in the top of the can, and visible dried electrolyte residue. That definitely needs to be replaced. The other issues that I find, but are hard to validate are the two IC's ( do not know if they are diodes FET's or other IC's from this angle) look charred. Try to take a picture head on so we can see the components. when working on your PSU absolutely make sure that you discharge the caps before working on those. Also. make sure that it remains unplugged. Take a look at this wiki for some general information. To check the fuse, set your multimeter to Ω, or OHMS. Place one lead on each end of the fuse and look at the display. If the display reads full-scale or doesn't change from before you tested the fuse, the fuse is not functioning. If the meter shows a low number (normally less than 1), then the fuse is most likely okay. If your meter has a continuity selection, it will either beep or change the displayed number if the fuse is good when tested. If it does not, your fuse is no good. Fuses in general only require a continuity check. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Ok there are two broken capacitors (one is hidden by the wires). For the two IC I uploaded better images. So I have to find two capacitors with the same caratteristics and replace them, to discarge them I only bridge the two wires. Right?

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Yes sir, you can, but shouldn't:-) on small capacitors, it usually does not matter. It's the bigger ones where this would be bad. You can discharge those by using a big resistor across the contacts ;-) I usually replace all capacitors, my thoughts are if I am working on it anyway, might as well do it all at the same time.

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But it really mater if I'll replace it?

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No it does not , if they are still okay.

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Giovanni Riva will be eternally grateful.
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