Replacing LCD screenfrom another 12 inch iBook

I'm looking to replace the display assembly on a 12" iBook G4 1.2GHz with a display assembly from a 12" iBook G4 1.33GHz. Are there any specific differences I should know about, or should it just be a straight swap?

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Hi! The cabling is different, specifically the Airport cable, because the 1.33GHZ has an internal Airport card, whereas the 1.2GHZ has a standard (removable) Airport, and they have different connectors. Physically the hinge will attach, and the screen will work on both models, but again, you'd need to transplant the cabling, which is not an easy task.

If the hinge is intact and you're just looking to transplant the screen itself (the screen inside the casing, not the whole enclosure including hinge, bezel, etc.) to the other machine, then that will work and is a much easier operation -- just pop the screen backing and shielding off, and transplant the screen.

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Ah right, so what you're saying is, I would need transplant the cables from the screen in the 1.2 GHz iBook to the screen for the 1.33 GHz iBook? The 1.2 GHz has a broken hinge, hence why I'm looking to replace the entire display assembly

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Correct, the 1.2GHZ cables would need to stay with that machine. It's not a fun procedure, but it's totally possible. Specifically make sure when you clamp the hinge together again, pay attention to leaving the proper length of each cable dangling so you don't find you haven't given yourself enough length. I would recommend taking snapshots of the cabling as it is now in the hinge and the screen frame with a digital camera so you can use the pictures as a reference when moving them over and putting it back together. It sounds goofy to do that, but it helps avoid confusion and makes it easier.

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Just a final check then, the metal frame with the hinges and the front bezel from the 1.33GHz iBook would be fully compatible with the 1.2GHz screen innards? This looks like to be more work than I anticipated, but I like a challenge! :)

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Yup, all that should work fine. The hardest part, like I said, is keeping the cabling organized. Also, you'll want to test it before putting the machine back together. It's a little messy testing with it all opened up, but it's worth it to make sure you've got it right. Nothing is worse than spending a ton of time putting a machine back together only to realize you have to go back in. Also, the bezel can stay attached to the metal frame -- there's no need to separate those. The inverter can also stay.

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Heh, thanks for the help... It's a shame I live in the UK, otherwise I could've taken it to you for the procedure

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