Repair and disassembly guides for food cooling appliances including refrigerators, freezers and fridge-freezers.

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Freezer on bottom- floor filling with water & freezing/leaking out

freezer is on the bottom and the freezer floor fills with water and freezes. Occasionally it is leaking out ruining my cabinets on each side. The ice maker still makes ice and I don't see the tube leaking?

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i dont have an answer i have a question.

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just had a repair done to stop leaking, could kick myself. The drain hole was covered in ice, and the water could not drain out. Cost me $134.95 for repair man to pour hot water on it!!!

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That's what everyone keeps saying, but pouring hot water on it doesn't fix the problem since your repair guy didn't do anything to address WHY it happened in the first place. I have turned off my frig for 2 days at a time which would have melted any ice build up anywhere, but the problem keeps happening. Sears sent out 8 different techs, each one with his own theory, and not a single one fixed it. I paid and paid, but luckily each time a new guy was sent out I disputed the previous charge since whatever they did didn't fix the problem. I THOUGHT I'd gotten to the point where everything had been replaced INCLUDING the computer panel that controls the defrost cycle, but... the problem is back. So, rather than buy a new frig and have the same thing happen a couple of years from now, for the time being I'm just taking out the freezer basket and chipping all the ice from the bottom of the freezer (with a metal spatula) twice per week, tossing the pieces in the sink and getting on with my life.

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Re: Samsung RF266AEBP is accumulates in freezer, please note I do not have it hooked up to water to use the ice maker.

I would do that, except it is heavy (for me) and time consuming. The fan noise gets loud at times. It bothers me to pay $1300 for a refrigerator 3-4 years ago to have this problem. I chip the ice away too. Try to be careful doing this, but learned you can crack the freezer lining. :( Bugs me too that it started just after the warranty ran out.

One suggestion I have is to make sure you have a good air flow with your food in the freezer - top rack and bottom tray.

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My freezer didn't have anything in it for an entire week. It didn't make any difference. Again, I have defrosted for days (by turning it off at the breaker) and that doesn't do any good either. One commenter said to vacuum the back out but you have to roll the frig out to the middle of the room and unscrew a bunch of screws to take the back off. I'm not doing that. I COULD call Sears again and have them send out guy #9, however, the last guy who replaced the control panel said that was the last thing he knew to try. So, it's a design flaw that Amana is aware of but won't fix. Mine is a Kenmore but made by Amana. I'm certain it's "Planned Obsolescence" that forces people to buy new appliances every few years to keep the companies in business. My frig is just over six years old but I was expecting at least 10 out of it. Don't know if I can stand chipping the ice away twice per week for the next four years or not but guess we'll see!

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If the freezer leaks water inside it's possible that the defrost drain froze. If the defrost drain freezes the defrost water will overflow the drain and drip down to the bottom of the freezer.

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thank you. are you able to tell me where to look for this defrost drain? any suggestions on why it is freezing and how to prevent this from happening?

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Thaw any ice that is clogging the drain. Make sure the drain is clear by flushing it with a turkey baster and HOT water. Here's a video on how it works: http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/H...

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I just had this problem repaired today. The repair guy took out this small rubber nipple that has a slit in it. This slit clogs and therefore the water cannot drain. He first removed the freezer door and all shelving and the ice maker. He then removed the cover on the inside back wall of the freezer. He then melted the ice using a hair dryer and scraped the ice away as it started loosening. He then put hot water in a bottle with a tube and used that water to melt away the clog in the clogged nipple. He then removed the nipple permanently. He then put everything back together before going to the back of the refrigerator and removed that panel and installed a P-trap drain tube kit. It's like the drain you see in the cabinet under your sinks. If you do everything to open the drain but don't install the p-trap you could be having this same problem over and over again. It's best just to call a service person and get it done right.

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If you don't want to have to completely dismantle your refrigerator, just turn it off for two days and leave the doors opened. That will defrost the entire thing. I used my garage frig to store my food from the kitchen frig for the two days.

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I tried finding the defrost drain hole and unclogging it with some warm water. That worked temporarily. What really seems to have fixed it is vacuuming the huge cakes of dust away from the condenser coils at the bottom of the refrigerator. This also seems to have gotten the freezer to run quite a bit colder.

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There are several reasons for the drain to freeze up and several repairs.

Over time, slime will build up in the drain hose and create a nasty clog. Removing the ice and clog without replacing the drain hose doesn't always work.

Defrost heater too far from drain opening. Sometimes the heater warps just enough during normal use that the drain won't get enough heat to keep it thawed. Adding a heat sink clip to the defrost heater with the other end in the drain will solve this issue as well as extending the defrost time.

Choo3 suggested the repair kit. Excellent choice!

For freezers on the bottom models that are leaking water, icing/frosting up etc., more information is needed to solve the problem.

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I recently had my freezer compartment opened up (the rear panel behind the drawers) ... its a bottom drawer style freezer double french door kenmore fridge. I thawed all the backed up ice and cleaned everything up and before I closed it all back up I snapped a picture of it. When looking at the picture... In the top right corner there is what I think to be an electrical component wrapped up in a block of what looks like grey putty type mastic duct sealant... have you ever noticed if this type of product is used to seal or insulate components as a common practice?

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Nicholas Babineau, yes I have seen it. It's like a permaglue. I see it a lot. It keeps moisture and secures wires in place. I see a lot of Samsung compressors with a square piece of black permaglue on the top and on the front to prevent noise/vibration.

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I have a question about my maytag electronic duel cool refrigerators bottom freezer

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ShannumWrestling- what's your question?

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Whirlpool has released a drain tube kit to that is an improved design to the defrost drain tube to keep the defrost drain from clogging and freezing up on some Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Jenn Air, Maytag, and Amana refrigerators with the freezer on the bottom (single door and french door). The new kit uses a “P Trap” instead of the older style duck bill that commonly clogged up over time. Symptoms of the defrost drain getting clogged are that ice will build up on the bottom of the freezer floor and eventually it will start to leak a small amount of water out of the freezer door and onto the floor.

https://partsdr.com/blog/w10619951-updat...

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Do you know how much Sears will charge to change out the drain tubes?

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The repairman that I had come to my home to fix my Samsung french door with bottom freezer ice buid up charged me $98.00 to come the first time . He told me to unplug it for 3 days so it would defrost,and then call him back and he would come back and install a repair kit and charge $150-$200 more but would not be able to guarantee the work. So I got on appliance parts web-page and looked up my fridge and they had the repair video on there with how to install the repair kit,and the repair kit was less that $50.00 and only takes about 1/2 hour to install. So I plan on doing it myself.

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I installed the new drain kit, (its was easy to install). I am still getting water under the freezer door (which has ruined my laminate flooring). It's not as much and doesn't leak as often, but it's still a pain to deal with. Should I have taken a hair dryer and defrosted the back of the drawer where the water comes from when I changed the drain? I saw one guy on you tube that did that. I don't want to have to take the freezer drawer apart but I think I can get a dryer back there ( and yes, I will unplug it first)

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Joe Fontana -

2 ways to clear frozen drain without removing any parts:

#1 You can simply unplug the refrigerator for 2 days with the doors open.

#2 You can also fill a turkey baster , squeeze bottle etc, with hot water and squeeze the hot water in the drain. Unplug the refrigerator. The drain is located at the bottom of the access panel on the back wall of freezer. You'll notice vents at the bottom of the panel. Shine a flashlight through the vents and you'll see the ice covering the drain pan. That's where the hot water goes. Once melted, squirt hot water into the drain hole until it's clear.

Never use a blow dryer! The heat will melt the liner and other components.

Be sure the refrigerator is "properly" leveled. It should be -3 degrees to the back and 0 side to side. This slight lean to the back ensures the doors close properly and that it drains to the back. Hope this helps.

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sears is made by mytag and they have a technical bulletin on it. W10632338A. It would show you that a recall on the duck bill drain they use was the problem of heat causing it to stick closed, water would build on bottom until the ice was taller then the bin and then would leak out. I had the same problem and busted sears with phone calls, they sent the part out and in 20 minutes I had it in and no problem since.

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I have a 15yr old son, 14 year old triplets, and for the last year an additional 15yr old boy. Plus my wife and myself. I have a stand up freezer, a 30yr old fridge in the garage and a big Ammana inside the house, all full.

Tricks I have learned:

I was taught by a repair guy/ friend who taught me about cleaning the coils. I use a long bottle nose brush like the one to clean lint out of the dryer. Do it often 1 X a year at least

Also, for outside units. I put a piece of plywood on top of the fridge with four 2x4 cuttings to keep the top of the fridge/freezer clear to diffuse heat and help keep airflow exits open to help it run smooth. Keep things from being against the sides to block air flow.

Finally, Try to not fill the fridge or freezer inside with too much food. If it is too full, it hurts air circulation. Learn where the drains are and vents are. BE the drain!

Become good friends with your repair guy. Giving him a soda and being nice, might get you a new tip.

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I have a Maytag four door with the same problem, but I don't think the brand is important.

What matters is the location of the cooling fan. Mine is at the very bottom and you have to leave a space behind the refrigerator to allow the fan to do its job. Poor design in my opinion.

I've had the refrigerator in the same place for over two years without a problem but then decided to push it against the wall to give more room in the kitchen. After that I had water freezing in the bottom of the freezer.

I don't know if it would eventually clear itself if you just pull it about 2" to 3" from the wall or not. You might try it, but expect it to take at least a week to melt all the ice.

Some people asked how to get to the drain. It's not easy!!!

Remove everything from inside; door, upper and lower baskets, slides, and the back wall. Behind that is the evaporator and under it is the drain plug. Remove the majority of the ice manually and then place a fan to blow at the evaporator coils until everything is DRY.

Put everything back and make sure there is at least a two inch gap to the wall. Should be fine then.

Another thing. The condenser coils should be clean too. Mine are on the bottom so they get dirty easily. I had to put boards between the bottom of the refrigerator and the wall, about 2' to 2-1/2' long, and tilt it back. I placed automotive Jack stands under the front to keep it tilted. Then I used a vacuum to clean the coils.

This is a dangerous operation so be careful. You don't want the refrigerator to fall on its back if you tilt it too far or, even worse, fall on you. Could be DEADLY!!!

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I have already done ALL of that and it didn't do any good. The drain was cleaned out by a Sears repair guy, it has been completely defrosted for days at a time, I've vacuumed everything I can find, and there is STILL ice on the bottom of the freezer floor. But thanks anyway.

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The drain inside the freezer behind the back panel is still clogged then. When I took mine apart I found solid material likely from the assembly process in the drain. Hallelujah it has not leaked since.

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Camellia,

Where are the coils on your unit, on the bottom or in the back?? They must be clean. Is there a fan and if so, where?? The fan and grill must be clean.

If the coils are on the bottom, you have to make sure they are all clean and not just the front ones. To do this you have to tilt the fridge. If the fan and grill are in the back at the bottom, they have to be cleaned too. Then the unit has to be about 3" from the wall to let the air get out.

Are you saying you've cleaned all these areas and pulled it away from the wall and you still have the problem?? Have you removed the rubber drain plug to make sure it's open and working??

The fridge was not designed to have ice in the bottom. If the coils are clean and there is proper air flow and the drain drains, it will work just fine.

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You two are not paying attention, or reading previous posts where I have stated that Sears repairmen have been out EIGHT TIMES, replaced thermostats, cleaned the drain, one guy took the black plastic ring completely out and it didn't do any good, another guy put one back in, the entire back has been taken off and blowdried and vacuumed, drawer guides have been replaced, the entire computerized control panel at the top of the fridge has been replaced. THERE IS NOTHING LEFT TO DO. I am well aware, since I'm nearly 60 years old, that a refrigerator isn't usually designed to have ice in the bottom. Wow. I'm not sure who you think you're talking to, but that statement wasn't necessary because I'm a woman and you think I'm stupid. I've read on other sites that it is a KNOWN DESIGN FLAW and Amana refuses to address it. Amana makes many of Sears Kenmore brand refrigerators. But thanks again.

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It's obvious from your posts that you are far from stupid. I'm 60 also. Im saying if they are cleaning the drain that is accessed from behind the fridge they're cleaning the wrong one.

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Fixed mine, it is a 5 or 6 year old counter depth kitchenaid that has had this problem since new.

I tried posting this as a comment, but can't find it. Not a blogger! So here I go again.

The short story is level it from side to side and tilt it to the rear. But if your fridge is iced up you must completely thawed it first. Why? Because theoreticly, the reason the water is getting to the bottom of the freezer is because the drain hole in the drain pan is frozen over and will not thaw during defrost, due to excessive ice buildup. When a freezer of this design is leaning left or right the water from defrosting remains on the left or right instead of going out the drain which is in the middle of the pan. This pan is only about .25 in. Deep at the front. Water left standing after defrost refreezes and grows with each subsequent defrost causing drain to freeze shut and water to run over the pan and into the freezer compt. Leaning to the rear slightly is because the pan is deeper at the rear. These theories and conclusions are my own, all I can say for certain is it worked for me. I hope it helps others.

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Someone wrote in and said he had his unit for four years and then it started having this problem and accused it of being a design problem. Well, if it worked fine for four years it's not a design problem. Something has to have happened to make it have problems after that long.

After first fixing mine the problem came back. After cleaning the ice out again I pulled it out from the wall and took out the 'duck bill' valve, or rubber nipple, and it was clogged with dog hair. Yes I have two dogs. I cleaned it out and cleaned the fan blades and everything else I could find.

Works great now. And it's quieter too. That's from cleaning the fan blades.

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I have struggled with this issue for months, and I have defrosted for 2 days (with my freezer this consists of taking everything out of the freezer), and as someone stated, this is just a temporary fix. Its very annoying and time consuming only to have it continue.

Since I always use the internet to fix appliances, I thought I should add my fix.

My evaporator motor was also getting noisy, the fan was hitting the motor - design flaw. Once I replaced the evaporator motor I no longer have any water/ice in the bottom of my freezer. It makes sense, a bad evaporator motor not doing it's job allows the defrost water to accumulate. I am not a pro, but since I replaced the motor and the fan blade, I have NO WATER at the bottom of my freezer, and now my freezer is a lot quieter! I hope this helps someone, because I get a lot of help from other people out there!

Update (02/11/2017)

Oh, and the evaporator motor was very easy to install, and costs about $90!

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what brand unit

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I am going to share my story of how I fixed my Bosch KGN53X00AU. It had worked well for about 5 years until one day a layer of ice started forming at the bottom of the freezer compartment. After breaking and cleaning the ice for several weeks I started looking for information of forums. Defrosting did not help. Customer support line was totally useless.

Finally I decided to fix it myself. Nothing was wrong inside, so I decided to check the drain pipe at the back of the fridge.

Before going into the details I would like to remind you where the water comes from. If we look at how a fridge works (http://faculty.wcas.northwestern.edu/~in...) we can see two heat exchangers internal (blue) and external (red):

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Water from the air freezes on the internal heat exchanger and can forms a thick layer of ice. Back in the old days people had to defrost their fridge regularly to remove that ice. Modern fridges do it automatically. The internal heat exchanger has a heating inside which is periodically turned on by the controller during defrost cycle.

The ice melts and the water runs down a special drain pipe outside of the fridge camera into a special tray at the back of the fridge. Usually they put this tray on top of the external heat exchanger (red one on the picture). This exchanger is hot, so the water quickly evaporates back into the room.

If the drain pipe is blocked the water leaks where it can. I my case it leaked into the freezer camera and got frozen at the bottom. If the pipe is blocked with frozen water defrosting may help. Unfortunately, something else was blocking my pipe.

First of all I looked at the back of my fridge:

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That plastic grey panel is easy to remove by pulling it from the sides.

Now we can see the black pump on the right and heat exchanger with the plastic water tray on top of it on the left.

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If you look closer you will see a plastic disk inside that tray. The drain pipe was inside that disk, but I could not remove the disc because there was not enough space. In order to remove it I had to lay the fridge on the floor (be very careful not to drop it) and unscrew the plank that holds the heat exchanger.

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That gave me enough room to remove the plastic disk:

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The drain pipe can be seen here right above the tray:

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The disk is a water seal and the problem was right in it. It was clogged with some jelly like substance, so the water could not run through it. I cleaned it up:

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After assembling all the parts back the fridge works like new.

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Laying a refrigerator on it's back, front, or sides is not good. The freon in liquid form will move into areas of the sealed system designed only for gas. To prevent damage you should never lay a refrigerator down. If you have done this, stand the refrigerator upright and leave it unplugged at least 24 hrs before turning it on. This will allow the liquid to hopefully drain out and back to where it should be. The system has been compromised and problems can develop.

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I have had this problem for a year now and did the scraping by pouring warm water and pulling out the big sheet. I got so sick of always having water dripping out of the freezer. Luckily I have tile floors or I would have had to take action quicker. I found this YouTube video of an appliance repair man walking through the steps of what to do. In his video he takes the grommet(filled with gunk) and replaces it with a bigger one. I purchased a P-trap line off Amazon and will be installing that instead. It prevents the warm air from getting in and will not be able to stop it up. It appears that is the fix these companies came up with but did not feel that it was a defect and needed to be given to everyone. It was super easy to take all the parts out and my freezer will be completely ice free-hopefully! I am waiting on the part to be delivered and will let you know after the installation how it went.

Links to both YouTube videos: https://youtu.be/Sn1yimizKWA

https://youtu.be/LN6Db6CWry0

UPDATE: I was able to install the P-Trap fairly easily. The most difficult part was getting the old pipe under the duck bill out, it was so dry it was stuck in good. Sure enough the duckbill had just a little bit of gunked up hair/dust in it, but that sucker hasn't opened in a long time. As soon as I took it off, water came down and began filling the basin, as I had melted it hoping to see it come down with the duck bill. After installing the new one, I sent more water down there and heard it sucking the water through the pipe like a kitchen sink. So far so good, nothing has built up anywhere in the freezer and the pipe is still clear at the back.

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looking forward to your results

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you should defrost your freezer 2x's monthly - didn't your dad/mom teach you this?

My parents did this and never had a problem; I have followed and my freezer is strong 15 years later

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That was in the old days when freezers were not automatic defrosting. There is NO REASON to have to defrost now -- unless there is something wrong with the freezer.

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I had the exact same problem, The water seal or valve can be removed without laying the machine down by first removing drain pan and fan assembly. Also after cleaning etc, I did not replace the water seal/valve as it does not appear to serve any useful purpose.

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A refrigerator should never be laid down. The oil in the compressor can get into the system and contaminate it as well as the refrigerant in liquid form will flow into the system that should only have gas. If you have no option but to lay it down, you must leave it upright and unplugged for a day or more to allow fluids to settle before turning it in.

Every repair can be made with it upright.

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Debbie will be eternally grateful.
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