Apple's line of iBook laptops was intended for the consumer and educational markets. The iBook line comprises of the iBook G3 Clamshell, G3 12", G3 14", G4 12", and G4 14".

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when powered on, screen is blue and keyboard is unresponsive

04 model G4, unit will power up but screen moves from grey with apple logo to solid blue, unit will not respond to any keyboard or track pad commands. loaded disc 1 of software install and restore into bay, but no response. will not eject even when powered off and back on.

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If your iBook has the original hard disk there's a good probability that he is now at the end of it's life. If you still can do a back up or your important data, do it NOW.

There's also a probability that you're getting a system software issue. You can try to resolve this issue without the installation disk if it's not available. Just use this procedure:

- shut down the iBook

- restart while holding down the COMMAND and the S keys

- you'll see a black screen with white text. Wait until the text stabilise

- type fsck -fy and press return key (there's a space between k and -)

- the computer will then scan the OS and check for errors and will try to repair. It's exactly the same thing than repairing the disk with Disk Utility.

- At the end of the verification and repair you'll get the message <<The volume "hard disk name" appears to be OK>>.

- If you get any other message then redo the fsck -fy typing until you get the <<The volume "hard disk name" appears to be OK>> message.

- when the OS is repaired just type reboot and press return.

If the disk can't be repaired with the command line then you can use DISK WARRIOR software for repairing your OS directory or Data Rescue 3 software to salvage your data from the problematic hard drive.

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It really helps to know exactly which machine we are talking about, along with the hard drive size, amount of RAM, available disk space and operating system. Your operating system is not fully loading. I take it that the machine booted OK from the installation disk. This sounds like your hard drive may be failing. The first thing I would do is make sure you have a backup of your User data. If you need to know how, ask me. As soon as I know which machine you have, I can walk to through replacing and/or repairing your hard drive. After you have your user data backed up, then boot from the install disk and go to the second or third screen on the installation till the pull down menus appear, then go to Utilities - Disk Utility and see if you can repair the disk.

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Try starting to the install disc by holding "C" as the computer starts up this should force it to boot to the install disc. You might (but not likely) resolve the problem by using the disk utility to repair the disk and repair he disk permissions. To do this click on Utilities > Disk Utility and the Select Macintosh HD (or whatever your hard drive is called) and from the First Aid tab select repair disk/ repair disk permissions. If that fails (and it probably will) you can either restore from a backup (go here for help with that http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Restore+Mac+from+ba...). Otherwise you will need to reinstall Mac OS X. Just click on continue twice, agree to the license, choose you hard drive, click options, choose archive and install and preserve users and network settings, click ok, then click continue, and finally click install. In about 60 to 90 minutes the install should be done. You will need to reinstall applications that were not preinstalled on your mac and run software updates.

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and if everything wont help - the solderings under the graphics processor could be faulty - that was my first thought when i read -> "screen moves from grey with apple logo to solid blue"

that is the moment when the graphics mode change and the funky acceleration should step in - but since the gpu is faulty - it's not possible.

had this "exact this problem at this point) on many g5 iMacs - all had a soldering problem and almost all (except one) are running nicely now.

BUT - do all the software related steps first - my suggestion was only because i thought about that when i read your problem

edit: i have to edit it into my original post - it's to long for a comment

are you sure about that ?

it would countan a lot of hot air and a flux dispenser ;-)

ok - it's not that hard - but since the most people don't have a professional hot air station - i describe it "kitchen table style"

first of all follow the instructions from ifixit to get the logic board out of the case.

remove everything from the board - find the GPU (depends on the model you will fix)

use some flux (don't know how it's called in the us) on the sides of the gpu and the bga chips aroud it (in cas of the g4 iBook they are very close - so use it at all of them)

DONT PRESS ANYTHING ON THE CHIPS!!

lay the logiboard on something heat resistant - but not metal stuff (stone is great - but not everybody has something like that)

then a heat gun - mine goes up to 590°C - but that would be overkill (if you dont know what you're doing) - reduce it to around 270-310°C

but first things first - start with a lower temperature - warm the whole logicboard slowly to the suggested temperature - never stay to long on one spot, never go nearer than 15 cm (as i mentioned before - if you can read solderings and chips - then you can handle this like you want - but thats safer to do it that way if you never did that before)

when the "working temperature" is arrived - heat the gpu area for around 5 minutes (circeling above the chip - not from the side, this would give you a flying gpu and thats not what we all want)

after the 5 minutes, cool down the heat gun and the logic board for about 5 minutes - reduce the temperature slowly and then - go away - let the board untouched for a while - it should get normal temperatures again - and do not ever touch anything on the board until it's "cold" - i think 15 minutes are good - 30 are better

the reassemble everything carefully - the iBook g4 board is to thin for the stuff they put onto it - not that you Kill it while you put everything back togehter.

so - that was it for now ;-)

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Comments:

A description of this repair would be of interest to a lot of people.

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edited it into the answer above - was to long for a comment

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Could you delete your answer and start a new question (well explanation) of your reball method. You could call it "Reballing a iBook GPU". I'd like to know more about the flux application before heating the GPU.

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A tear down of this with pictures would be greatly appreciated by your fellow professionals

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mornin everyone, well - i have to find a voctim for that, maybe i can get a iMac with that or a similar gpu problem - then i could provide some pictures.

i think rework or refolw would be better then reballing, i've reballed many smd parts - by hand - not with those fancy machines - but those parts had smaller arrays - almost 400 balls by hand would be a really "not so nice" job

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Mark will be eternally grateful.
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