This may sound fairly rudimentary, but does the button itself actually feel like it’s being pressed? If you’re getting Touch ID, it may just be the part of the cable that sends power signals is torn. I have never actually dissected one of those enough to know which trace goes to what. But it may just be the button is askew, or there is debris in there preventing the button from pressing.
The way it works is there is a very small button on the back of the touch ID board. That presses into an equally small small raised “shim” in the top case. So it’s a very narrow window of margin for it to be set properly. I have also seen instances where the shim comes unadhered from the top case, so the button has nothing to depress into.
Checking this takes some doing, because you need to take the whole logic board out to have a look, but I would say it’s worth a go. And is certainly more reasonable that replacing the button, since you would have to also replace the logic board to maintain touch ID functionality.
This may sound fairly rudimentary, but does the button itself actually feel like it’s being pressed? If you’re getting Touch ID, it may just be the part of the cable that sends power signals is torn. I have never actually dissected one of those enough to know which trace goes to what. But it may just be the button is askew, or there is debris in there preventing the button from pressing.
The way it works is there is a very small button on the back of the touch ID board. That presses into an equally small small raised “shim” in the top case. So it’s a very narrow window of margin for it to be set properly. I have also seen instances where the shim comes unadhered from the top case, so the button has nothing to depress into.
Checking this takes some doing, because you need to take the whole logic board out to have a look, but I would say it’s worth a go. And is certainly more reasonable that replacing the button, since you would have to also replace the logic board to maintain touch ID functionality.