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Current version by: Geoff Kerrigan ,

Text:

Hey, I have successfully repaired on so far. To be honest as shown here there is no need to follow the style of the existing cable, as long as it is flexible enough and long enough.
 
I used enamelled wire and a USB microscope to repair, best approach is to either use a micro pencil or heat gun to lay the hair thin cables.
 
I have also developed replacement side arms if anyone finds that they have broken, Very good for 3D printing, am "road" testing them right now to make sure they are up to the job but will basically replace the whole side arm attached to the metal side piece. This combined withe the micro soldering should deliver a fully working and colour customised oculus.
 
Watch this space.......
 
=== Update (08/25/2018) ===
Hey sorry for the very delayed reply.
 
The post messsd up so il keep it short as this is the 3rd time.
 
Basically the procedure went as above except that I used a USB microscope and enameled wire from an old stepper motor.
 
This stuff is amazing, trust me, comes in all the right thicknesses.
 
It works fine, you just have to be patient, sand and tin both ends of the ripped cable, don't be shy solder loves copper and heat, you can't really mess it up.
 
Now heat the end of your enameled cable with the solder to tin it and remove the enamel. Under your scope you have 5 cables to do. I used two different thickness of wire.
 
Lay the end of you wire onto the ripped part of your cable, line it up and stick it down with tape. Use a heat gun, to melt both tin and wire together without disturbing the alignment. Do this for all 5, both ends, again don't worry about extra length this can be hidden away later.
 
As for the 3d print part, I measured and made new parts, they are not exact as the originals are glued to the metal parts on the mask. Mine will clip over this, then if your happy can be epoxy glued.
 
Mine still have cable ties from testing but work perfectly after epoxy.
 
=== Update (08/25/2018) ===
[image|1529308]
 
[image|1529307]
 
[image|1529234]

Status:

open

Edit by: Geoff Kerrigan ,

Text:

Hey, I have successfully repaired on so far. To be honest as shown here there is no need to follow the style of the existing cable, as long as it is flexible enough and long enough.
 
I used enamelled wire and a USB microscope to repair, best approach is to either use a micro pencil or heat gun to lay the hair thin cables.
 
I have also developed replacement side arms if anyone finds that they have broken, Very good for 3D printing, am "road" testing them right now to make sure they are up to the job but will basically replace the whole side arm attached to the metal side piece. This combined withe the micro soldering should deliver a fully working and colour customised oculus.
 
Watch this space.......
 
=== Update (08/25/2018) ===
Hey sorry for the very delayed reply.
 
The post messsd up so il keep it short as this is the 3rd time.
 
Basically the procedure went as above except that I used a USB microscope and enameled wire from an old stepper motor.
 
This stuff is amazing, trust me, comes in all the right thicknesses.
 
It works fine, you just have to be patient, sand and tin both ends of the ripped cable, don't be shy solder loves copper and heat, you can't really mess it up.
 
Now heat the end of your enameled cable with the solder to tin it and remove the enamel. Under your scope you have 5 cables to do. I used two different thickness of wire.
 
Lay the end of you wire onto the ripped part of your cable, line it up and stick it down with tape. Use a heat gun, to melt both tin and wire together without disturbing the alignment. Do this for all 5, both ends, again don't worry about extra length this can be hidden away later.
 
As for the 3d print part, I measured and made new parts, they are not exact as the originals are glued to the metal parts on the mask. Mine will clip over this, then if your happy can be epoxy glued.
 
Mine still have cable ties from testing but work perfectly after epoxy.

Status:

open

Original post by: Geoff Kerrigan ,

Text:

Hey, I have successfully repaired on so far. To be honest as shown here there is no need to follow the style of the existing cable, as long as it is flexible enough and long enough.

I used enamelled wire and a USB microscope to repair, best approach is to either use a micro pencil or heat gun to lay the hair thin cables.

I have also developed replacement side arms if anyone finds that they have broken, Very good for 3D printing, am "road" testing them right now to make sure they are up to the job but will basically replace the whole side arm attached to the metal side piece. This combined withe the micro soldering should deliver a fully working and colour customised oculus.

Watch this space.......

Status:

open