⟐ Edited by author June 01, 2026 at 13:06 MST

(And I know I could just drill some holes in the drives, which is what I may end up doing, but I like the idea of total information destruction that shredding provides and I like the idea that they'll recycle the remains properly afterwards.)

⟐ Answered May 28, 2026 at 11:26 MST

I popped it open to have a look, and the only think I saw that looked out of order were these semi transparent things. They look cracked.

What are these, and could they have caused the problem?

They look like fuses to me, and they are non conductive. There's absolutely no conductivity through them. Just OL with a multimeter.

⟐ Answered May 27, 2026 at 16:35 MST

⟐ Answered May 27, 2026 at 9:31 MST

Here's a Pic, I've been trying to see if it'll spin when connected to a wall but so far, nothing.

It's an internal HDD so idk if it was a good or bad idea to remove it from my laptop. I got it around the beginning of the pandemic. So 2020 or 2021.

Here's the 2 pictures. Is a bad controller board fixable at home?

⟐ Commented May 24, 2026 at 10:42 MST

Have tried it on other systems and it does the same thing.

Really need help

⟐ Answer edited May 22, 2026 at 15:03 MST

Thanks everybody and keep it up!

The model is: 47674

Here some images taken from the Verbatim webpage:

⟐ Commented May 21, 2026 at 11:55 MST

⟐ Answered May 16, 2026 at 10:04 MST

⟐ Answered May 13, 2026 at 11:04 MST

⟐ Answered May 13, 2026 at 7:37 MST

• Full shutdown of the computer doesn't make it stop, nor does ejecting the disc.
• The other drive doesn't have this problem. It shuts off when the computer is in sleep mode or shut down. The drives are the exact same make.
• Nothing appears to be accessing the drive (nothing could be accessing it if the computer is shut down fully and disconnected from the internet, as far as I'm aware).
• I have changed the USB port, and it doesn't seem to matter which port it's plugged into. The power remains on regardless. This includes extra ports, as I have a USB plug extender with an extra four USB plugs. I have swapped the main plug for this as well as not plugging the WD into it at all. I've tried just about every USB port on the computer at this point.

Looking this up online I have found some discussion about entering the BIOS and changing settings, but I don't understand why it would only effect only one WD, and not both, especially when the USB port it's plugged into doesn't seem to fix the problem. I also don't have power running into any other USB devices (art tablet, for example) when the computer is shut down, regardless of port.

⟐ Commented May 10, 2026 at 3:44 MST

⟐ Commented May 02, 2026 at 10:53 MST

Apple Blade SSD 5GA 34+22 Pins NVMe

⟐ Commented April 26, 2026 at 16:26 MST

⟐ Answered April 21, 2026 at 21:33 MST

⟐ Answered April 19, 2026 at 21:42 MST

Device: Seagate One Touch (Hub version)

The Issue: I accidentally used the power adapter from my Roborock H7 Handheld Vacuum to power my Seagate One Touch external desktop drive.

The Specs Mismatch:

• Seagate Requirement: 12V / 1.5A - 3A
• Roborock H7 Charger Output: 25.6V / 1.4A
• Result: I sent more than double the required voltage into the drive.

Current Status: The drive is currently unplugged. I am worried about the internal controller board or the drive motor being fried. I haven't tried plugging it into my computer yet because I’m afraid of a short circuit damaging my PC's USB ports.

My Questions for the Community:

1. Is there a high likelihood that the TVS (Transient Voltage Suppression) diode on the HDD's PCB sacrificed itself?
2. Should I attempt to "shuck" the drive (remove it from the Seagate enclosure) and try connecting the internal SATA drive directly to a PC or a different SATA-to-USB adapter?
3. If the PCB on the hard drive itself is burnt, is a DIY board swap possible, or does the BIOS chip need to be moved to a donor board?

Any guidance on how to test the internal drive safely without risking my computer would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Answered April 15, 2026 at 1:49 MST

⟐ Answer edited April 13, 2026 at 9:26 MST

⟐ Answered April 13, 2026 at 4:55 MST

-Drive: Kingmax PQ3480 512GB (72% health left and 0 Media Integrity Errors)

So I was recently playing a decently light game that requires not so much writes for the ssd then out of nowhere a YSOD(Yellow Screen of Death) flashed my screen for a sec then my laptop rebooted.
After that,it showed "No boot device found" as I remembered, it also disappeared in the UEFI/BIOS .I have to re-seat / do a cold boot in order for it to show up again tho I cant log in Window at that moment (I can sometime access the lock screen until a few secs later , a BSOD with the error code WHEA... happened . Same goes with Safe mode).
However,I can still access the drive through a rescue usb(WinPE boot environment) and do light tasks on it.But the moment I start doing some loads on it like testing its speed using Victoria , it disappeared in the eyes of WinPE.It finds it again after a restart.
I thought it might be something with the heat so I directly blowed my fan into it and it was able to boot into Safe mode and even Window,I even successfully ran a chkdsk and it found no problems.(Note that the ssd ran perfectly fine even under loads before the incident)
Sadly my laptop didnt have a built-in heatsink for the ssd and Im running on a budget rn so I cant buy a new ssd.I have backed up my files to be prepared for the worst.

(the ssd still cant log into Window without a direct fan blowing at its face,I also noticed that the ssd is quite hot after some (2) failed boots and WinRE. The power chip might be leaking? idk)

Im a student and I really need this ssd.Hope someone out there could help me with this:P

⟐ Answer accepted April 11, 2026 at 18:39 MST

⟐ Answer edited April 10, 2026 at 11:03 MST