⟐ Commented May 29, 2026 at 15:39 MST

Basically, I've ported my number from another phone provider. I received their sim card and it doesn't make or receive calls (data and text are OK), and the reception is quite sketchy.

But here's the weird part: when I test the new sim in another phone - the sim can make calls fine, so the sim works. Then, when I try another sim in my phone, that sim can make calls. So the phone works OK...

For whatever reason, this specific phone providers sim in this specific phone can't make calls, and has trouble finding reception.

I've called apple, the phone hardware got a green light after a diagnostic. I've reset network settings, reset the entire phone, I've bought a brand new replacement sim, the phone isn't locked - all leaves me with the same issue.

I'm wondering whether something when wrong in the porting process, or something on my phone isn't written correctly as it relates to this specific provider. My provider is looking into it now

Appreciate any help as I'm all out of normal troubleshooting options.

⟐ Commented May 29, 2026 at 15:39 MST

My washer fills up with water but the agitator won't work

⟐ Edited by author May 29, 2026 at 14:41 MST

⟐ Answered May 29, 2026 at 14:22 MST

⟐ Edited by author May 29, 2026 at 14:02 MST

I accidentally put 12v on the 5v usb power lines of my Car GPS, pretty sure its this model. But now the devices does not power on. I have taken it apart and am trying to locate the issue if it is visible, but I would like some help finding where to begin?

The first components after the power supply I cannot identify, I think it is a QFN 6 pin labelled 'JHE', then a SOT-23-3 labelled 'WEG9I'. I have listed the voltages below, but nothing seems out of the ordinary from what I can tell.

The power button reads 3.13v on one side and GND on the other.

The board:

Any help or guidance would be great, thank you.

⟐ Answered May 29, 2026 at 12:59 MST

I have a LG Xboom GO XG7QBK that doesn't "work":

• After pressing the power button the power led turns on.
  • Pressing it again doesn't turn it off.
  • No sound output (beeps or whatever on startup, buttons)
  • I can hard reset it (7sec power + boost button) after which the devices turns off, but doesn't solve the issue
• Can't put in BT Pairing mode
• When plugging in the charger, no battery led indications.
  • The device turns on with the battery only, charger disconnected.
  • The device turns on with charger plugged in, battery disconnected.
  • The device turns on with both connected
• Pressing the power and volume up/down for two seconds make the power led blink 4 times, to turn on/off "auto power management".
• If i connect it to the wall, and then use a cable to connect my phone, it charges the phone.
• After opening it up:
  • Replaced the cable that connects the buttons to main board (damaged it while disassembling, replaced it just to be sure), no change in behaviour
  • When pressing BT + Play/Pause for two seconds, all leds (colours+power+Boost+Bluetooth) start blinking except for the battery leds. Colours stop after 1min or so.
    • When in this state i can't convince the device to hard reset. Need to remove power source to "turn off".

Pictures of the motherboard, no apparent damage, ill review all components when i have a magnifier.

Any suggestions on next steps to diagnose?

Update:

Ive been using the fixbot do diagnose and check some stuff, and came to the following conclusion:

My LG Xboom Go XG7QBK powers on (Power LED is on), but it is "frozen" or "soft-bricked."

There is no audio, the Bluetooth/Reset buttons do not respond, and it won't produce any sound. I have performed deep troubleshooting on the main board (EBR37418701) and found the following:

• Main Power (PVDD) at the TAS5822M amp (Pins 6/7) is 7.38V (Normal).
• Logic Power (DVDD) at Pin 9 is 3.39V (Normal).
• The Reset pin (MRST) on the Bluetooth daughterboard is 3.2V (High/Normal).
• **CRITICAL:** The I2C bus (Pins 11 and 12 on the TAS5822M) is sitting at 0V, but shows high resistance to ground (no short).
• **CRITICAL:** Pin 29 (PDN) on the amp is at 0V, meaning the MCU is keeping the amp in shutdown mode.

It seems the Bluetooth module/MCU is powered and not in hardware reset, but it is failing to initialize the I2C bus or execute its boot sequence. I have already tried a battery disconnect and holding the power button to drain capacitors. Is there a known "Force Boot" or "Firmware Recovery" key combination or a specific test point to jump to force a firmware reload on this model? Or does this indicate a failure of the MCU/Flash memory on the daughterboard?

⟐ Edited by author May 29, 2026 at 12:54 MST

I don't have much of a back story on it, a friend gave it to me and said it quit working one night. He didn't know if it updated before it quit. it was not boot looping before it quit.

Anybody got any ideas on what it might be?

Update:

I bought another Galaxy watch on eBay for parts to potentially put two together to make one good one. Unfortunately in the eBay listing it was labeled as boot looping but now that I have that it happened but it has not shown any life since I've had it, so back to square one... At least it was only $20 lol

I did take it apart as well just to check for water damage and it was spotless so more than like more than likely the same issue as my other one..... Nice

⟐ Answered May 29, 2026 at 12:45 MST

⟐ Commented May 29, 2026 at 11:56 MST

⟐ Commented May 29, 2026 at 11:54 MST

⟐ Commented May 29, 2026 at 11:53 MST