⟐ Answered May 15, 2026 at 2:05 MST

⟐ Answer accepted February 02, 2026 at 0:01 MST

The console has only around 250 hours of use. Because of the war, power outages and the general situation, I barely had the opportunity or state of mind to play. Unfortunately, the warranty has now expired.

The repair situation here is also extremely difficult. The main official PlayStation service centre in Ukraine was destroyed during a missile strike, and there is currently no functioning official repair option available to me. Sony’s out-of-warranty service is described as an exchange for a refurbished console rather than a repair of my own unit. Replacing the console is also very expensive here, so I am trying to save this one.

• The console beeps and shows a blue light.
• The fan starts spinning.
• After 1–2 seconds, all power is cut.
• The blue light goes out and the fan stops.
• It never reaches the white light.
• Safe Mode is impossible because it shuts down before the second beep.

There was no burning smell, unusual noise, visible dust or previous overheating.

I have already removed the additional M.2 SSD and detachable Blu-ray drive, disconnected every cable and accessory, tested it with only the power cable connected, left it unplugged for more than 24 hours and held the power button for 60 seconds while unplugged. Nothing changed.

The console was connected through a high-quality voltage stabilizer and battery backup because power fluctuations are common here.

An experienced private technician checked the board:

• No visible damage.
• No obvious short circuits.
• Static voltages and resistance measurements appear normal.
• A known-good PSU has not yet been confirmed as a test.

The UART log shows:

• 80810001 — General Power Failure / Power Sequence Error.
• 80000009 — Unexpected Power Loss or Shutdown Failure.
• 80800022 — No/Bad Communication Between APU and RAM. This appears only occasionally.
• 80801002 — High-priority error not found in the Console Service Tool database. This repeats across many startup attempts.

One raw 80801002 entry is:

OK 00000000 80801002 00000001 FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 1EB1 1D1D:E4

Other attempts contain the same FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 sequence but different trailing values.

Could 80801002 be a PS5 Pro-specific code related to the additional 2 GB DDR5 system-memory chip, its power rail, Southbridge or another power-sequencing circuit? The intermittent 80800022 may be a secondary result rather than the primary fault.

Has anyone encountered 80801002 on a PS5 Pro or knows how to interpret the additional raw values? Would testing with a known-good PSU still be the first step, or should the technician focus on motherboard power sequencing and the DDR5/GDDR6 rails?

I will attach screenshots of the complete UART logs. Any board-level advice would mean a lot to me.

⟐ Commented July 23, 2026 at 3:03 MST

⟐ Answered July 12, 2026 at 23:45 MST

Mine says 100V~ 4.2A 50/60Hz on the outside but I know Sony usually uses the same multi-voltage PSU globally and just changes the external label. I need to use it on 220V (Argentina) and want to confirm the PSU, which I assume is ADP-420DR, inside says 100-127V / 200-240V before plugging it in.

A photo of the PSU label would be amazing. Thanks!

⟐ Commented March 25, 2026 at 5:38 MST

I just got a brand new PS5 Pro and I’m experiencing a really annoying issue. Most of the time when I turn it on, I hear a high-pitched shriek coming from the console literally the moment it powers on. When I launch games, the high-pitched noise continues, and sometimes it even stays for a couple of minutes after I shut the console down.

From what I understand, this might be coil whine. I was told that since the noise starts immediately when the console powers on, it might be coming from the power supply (PSU) rather than the usual GPU/VRAM coil whine. Supposedly PSU coil whine can sometimes be fixed by replacing the PSU, but it’s basically a lottery between units.

So I’m wondering:

• Has anyone else experienced this with a PS5 or PS5 Pro?
• Did it get better over time?
• Would replacing the PSU at a repair lab be worth trying, or is it just a gamble and a waste of money?

This noise is honestly ruining the experience for me, but interestingly most people I’ve shown it to say they don’t hear the high-pitched sound at all.

Any advice or experiences would really help.

⟐ Answer accepted March 05, 2026 at 13:35 MST

⟐ Answered April 08, 2025 at 2:40 MST

Has anyone figured out the connections for UART on the PS5 Pro VSM-010 motherboard?

How would I go about trying to figure out which of the UART connections on the motherboard are the TX, RX and Ground?

Thanks

MJ

Anyways, this was to be a bad HDMI with torn Pads that he removed and said he didn't have the time to repair it and I got it for $250.

I got the unit and indeed he took it all apart and had a plastic shopping bag with all the small loose parts along with all the screws. (I hope)

I was able to install a new HDMI and amazingly there weren't any torn pads to repair.

I put back together enough to test to see if HDMI will work and I don't have anything happen when I press the On button. No Beeps or Fan spin.

I checked the voltage at the power supply and it was 12v.

I checked all around the b side of the VSM-010 mobo and found the 12v rail.

I guess what I asking is that are there any other voltage rails on the b side of the VSM-010 board to check on the 5v or 3.3v? knowing that the 3.3v is needed for the Southbridge to start up.

or

Are all the other voltages are checked on the A side ?

The PS5 Pro is an Enigma right now as there isn't to much out there as its to new yet for repairs beside tear downs to do HDMI ports and cleanings.

Thank you for your time.

MJ Robinson

⟐ Commented January 07, 2025 at 19:51 MST