I've done all of this with no result. The charging port is also brand new. I reset the SMC numerous times thinking I just wasn't doing it right. It just is not working.

⟐ Commented June 02, 2026 at 15:57 MST

I wasn't on the laptop at the time it restarted. I was doing some cleaning in the room and happen to hear that low chime tone noise, the one that I think is pretty standard across the board for when any laptop or computer is restarted or turns on. Everything was working normal before the restart occurred, and even after, things seem to be normal.

I do have a couple cats that I have to yell at from time to time if I catch them walking across the keyboard, maybe it's possible they stepped on a particular key combination which triggered the reason for this situation. I really don't have a clue. I haven't experienced any issues so I don't feel too concerned about it, for now anyway.

This is just out of pure curiosity, I was wondering if anyone had any knowledge in understanding anything on all that code stuff in the "Details" report that I'm able to pull up on the problem and reason for restart?

I appreciate any information anyone has on this matter and thank you very much for taking the time out of your day to give me some tips or insight to help me understand this a little better for now and in the future. Thanks again!

⟐ Answered June 02, 2026 at 6:59 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 02, 2026 at 4:40 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 01, 2026 at 9:18 MST

I’ve looked on windows to see if it was detected in device manager and it wasn’t detected, nor was the sensor.

System information in MacOS says it doesn’t find a connected camera

I even booted Ubuntu and checked with the Terminal command, and it didn’t detect it there

This only happened because I connected my screen with the battery still connected…

I have 2 broken top cases are with 2 known working cameras and both aren’t being detected. What should I do? I’ve had my head wrapped around this for weeks, I’m losing hope here :(

⟐ Commented May 31, 2026 at 21:38 MST

⟐ Commented May 29, 2026 at 18:33 MST

I am noticing an issue with the display on my 14-inch MacBook Pro (Model A2442). There is a subtle but noticeable color shift happening across the screen. When viewing a pure white background, the affected areas look off-white/grayish. On dark backgrounds, there are permanent "smudge" marks that do not wipe away with a microfiber cloth.

It looks like the anti-reflective coating is failing or peeling (Staingate)?

Has anyone successfully stripped the coating on this specific 14-inch model without damaging the Mini-LED backlight or glass?

Any insights or advice would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Commented May 27, 2026 at 14:51 MST

⟐ Answered May 26, 2026 at 14:35 MST

I touch it once and it puts two b characters for me most of the time, but not always. This key is much looser and more sensitive than the others.

Suggested by @pydev, I removed the key cap. It does work flawlessly without the key cap. But when I put it back, same old story.

Any ideas?

—

Update: Here's a software solution working around the problem.

Update: Apple has announced a MBP Late 2016 — Butterfly keyboard's key double hit problem for macbooks with butterfly keyboard.

⟐ Commented May 26, 2026 at 11:46 MST

Recently, keys in the top-right hand section of the keyboard have started repeating continuously. The worst are the volume up/down function keys, but also others such as the “\” key.

I thought that the keyboard was probably the problem so I transplanted the logic board into a spare identical 17” MacBook Pro case that included its own keyboard, and the problem moved with the logic board. Hence I presume the problem lies with the logic board.

The Mac has been extremely reliable until a couple of years ago when I had the board repaired for a different problem but now I’m reluctant to spend more money on it.

Any ideas as to what could be causing the problem, and how to rectify it? Or is it time to retire the MacBook Pro? Thank you.

Thanks Dan. Please see the two images attached - one of the connector with the keyboard ribbon cable connected, and one of the end of the unconnected ribbon cable. But, as described in my original post, this is the second case and keyboard (and hence the second keyboard cable) that I’ve tried and it seems unlikely to me that the same problem would persist between two separate keyboards and keyboard cables, etc. Thanks for your help.

⟐ Answered May 26, 2026 at 11:32 MST

However, if I shut down macbook, the MacBook can be charged in any way, such as MagSafe, and all USB-C ports can be used.

But the charging power is only 5W.

⟐ Commented May 26, 2026 at 7:50 MST

This laptop worked flawlessly up till Feb 2021, when the battery died —seven years, kudos for the quality control! I had iFixit's for a good reputation brand and decided to buy a replacement battery to extend my machine's life. Well, the new battery worked as expected, but died suddenly on Sep 2023, just 2 ½ years after being installed.

Since I still had use for this laptop, I decided to buy another replacement from iFixit on Oct 2023. This battery lasted exactly the same as the first one: it died on me last month (Apr 2026).

So, I'm wondering if it's just me or these items last less than half —almost a third— as an original Apple battery. If I had known, I would have taken the laptop to the original service center for repair. Anyone from iFixit here to answer my question? Because I'm about to buy from another provider, since my two purchases didn't live up to expectations.

⟐ Commented May 24, 2026 at 1:54 MST

⟐ Commented May 23, 2026 at 8:25 MST

But here is the question: without microsolder experience/ability, is there something else I can do than pay $200+ for a reflow job? For example, one microsolder tech recommended that I pop the logic board (all by itself, disassembled from the laptop) in an oven at 450 degrees for 5 minutes. If that’s safe to do, I’d much prefer that to a $200 repair, as long as I don’t risk destroying the whole thing.

You microsolder wizards out there, what would you recommend? Or where would you recommend that can do the repair for cheap? I’ve already replaced the laptop, so now I’m just repairing to resell.

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented May 22, 2026 at 8:20 MST

I bought this MacBook Pro M1 refurbished in 2024. After one year of use, it suddenly showed those shadows on the bottom of the screen (like on the 1st pic), pretty similar to the Flexgate encountered on the previous generations. As I was still under warranty from the refurbisher (Okamac), I sent them the computer and they replaced the screen. But when I got it back, the screen looked fine but was squeaking when I opened it, was pretty hard to open, and was misaligned from the rest of the body by about 1 or 2 mm when closed.

So I took it to a local repair shop, and after disassembling it, they told me that apparently the screen wasn't screwed back tightly enough. After they remounted it, the squeaking noise was gone and it wasn't that hard to open anymore, but it was still slightly misaligned from the body when closed. It also seemed that there was a very thin, dim shadow at the bottom of the screen, but it was really thin so I just ignored it.

A few months later, the webcam stopped working, and the Touch Bar started to take hours to turn on (the screen of the Touch Bar was black, but it was still working before turning on). Now the Touch Bar is still working, but it sometimes stays extremely dim for several hours.

The screen itself worked properly for 8 months, but a few weeks ago the Flexgate-like shadows came back (like on the first pic). After the first appearance, I just closed the screen and opened it back up, and it went away. I then continued to use the laptop for several weeks (opening and closing it several times every day) before it came back. It did this several times, but every time it went away immediately after I closed and opened the screen back up. One time, it even went away without touching the lid: the screen went into standby as I was taking a picture of it, and when I clicked the touchpad to turn it back on, the shadows on the bottom of the screen were gone.

One week ago, the screen again went into Flexgate mode, this time not with the shadows on the bottom of the screen, but with the very bright spotlights that you see on the 2nd pic. I thought the screen was fried for good, but after closing and opening it again, it was gone. It's now been a week since I haven't closed the laptop at all (I slightly adjusted the screen several times and it didn't do anything). This situation is not very sustainable for me since obviously I intend to use my laptop as a portable device.

So my questions are :

is it Flexgate, like on the previous generations? (I did some research; I know that the cable itself can't be fixed and I just can't pay 600€ to replace a screen that's already been changed 8 months ago. Also, I haven't found any testimonies of someone having Flexgate on two different screens a few months apart on the same computer - particularly since the longer cables of the A2338 model are supposed to be more durable. Also, the fisrt time I got the "flexgate" issue, it wasn't intermittent)

Could this be another issue entirely, linked to the dead webcam and dim Touch Bar, that could be more easily fixed?

I really hesitate to bring the laptop to a repair shop for now because if it's indeed Flexgate, I'm afraid I will break the cable for good if I close the lid again to move the computer.

⟐ Commented May 20, 2026 at 11:02 MST

I am an amateur so bear with me. I started trying to repair this Macbook Pro some time ago. Its my own.

Today I disconnected and connected the motherboard due to some work in the power button / touch id (There is another post related to this.

So, that is a short summary and what happened now is that when I reassembled the computer and turned it on I notices that the touch bar was not showing anything so I turned off the computer and looked inside to have a look at a connector on a cable that I messed up a year ago (Sadly I was not as careful back..). While examining the cable and connector and touching it I noticed some smoke(?).. I thought that I imagined it.. Then I see sparks and a tiny fire! I rush to disconnect the cable from the connector and disconnect the battery..

Here I am now, with two questions:

1. Where does the touch bar get its power from? I cant figure it out by myself.
2. What is this connector that I messed up used for and did I burn a fuse on the MB? How should I proceed?

⟐ Commented May 18, 2026 at 14:19 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 17, 2026 at 12:21 MST

The Macbook turns on only when it is plugged in, but if I unplug it while it's on, it can stay on for hours (with the fan working at full speed).

Here's what I've done so far:

1. 1. Tried a whole bunch of combinations of draining and then recharging the battery, restarting in recovery mode, etc.
2. 2. Tried two other battery data cables from seemingly reputable companies - I even tried a tape trick to try for a better connection, it did nothing in my case
3. 3. Got a second replacement battery from ifixit (they kindly sent one for free)

So far, none of these attempts have made a difference.

To me, it seems to be an issue with the data transfer from the battery to the rest of the computer, but I think I've ruled out a good number of culprits. Usually, I'm able to figure these problems out on my own, but not this time. Any help would be highly appreciated!

⟐ Commented May 16, 2026 at 11:56 MST

I’m facing a frustrating issue with my MacBook Pro M4 (purchased Feb 2025, AppleCare expired) and wanted to see if anyone has encountered this or found a workaround.

Whenever I open the lid—especially after it has been idle—the system behaves as if it’s under extreme thermal stress. It forces itself into sleep mode repeatedly (around 3 to 7 times in a row) before finally stabilizing and going back to normal.

There is no actual overheating, no high CPU usage, and no excessive fan noise.

After digging into the diagnostics, I managed to isolate the root cause. A specific thermal sensor, TDv (appearing as TD23 in the SMC logs), is stuck giving a false, static reading of 81 degree celsius. This erroneous spike is clearly causing the system to panic and force immediate sleep states to protect the hardware.

A factory reset did not change anything, as the issue is driven by this faulty sensor reading. I've attached my powermetrics logs and the diagnostic dump below.

Has anyone dealt with a single rogue sensor failing like this on an Apple Silicon Mac? Is there any known software method or tool to ignore/override a specific sensor input before I resort to a hardware repair?

Any insight would be highly appreciated.

Plaintext

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Moderate

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Sleeping

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Moderate

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Sleeping

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Nominal

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Heavy

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Sleeping

TD23 , 81.000961
TDVx , 81.000961
ftlx , 81.000252

⟐ Commented May 16, 2026 at 9:11 MST

Recently I bought a1707 macbook with screen flex cable problem and bios locked

I thought I could fix it but I failed (the flex cable is cutted) plus I tried to fix bios with ch341 but I guess this failed too (ic not responding error)

But after reassemble macbook it's not turning on

Did this repair while battery cable is unplugged so think is not shorted

USB meter says 19.6v 10~20w 0.5~1a and no keyboard or track pad respond or light

Plus I assume display will not work bc of cutted flex cable

Tried:smc reset/unplug charger and press power button for 10sec and plug/nvram reset

If have any kind of solution pls tell me

Thank you for reading long text :)

⟐ Answer accepted May 16, 2026 at 4:58 MST