⟐ Commented May 31, 2026 at 14:03 MST

⟐ Commented May 29, 2026 at 18:33 MST

⟐ Commented May 28, 2026 at 19:10 MST

I am noticing an issue with the display on my 14-inch MacBook Pro (Model A2442). There is a subtle but noticeable color shift happening across the screen. When viewing a pure white background, the affected areas look off-white/grayish. On dark backgrounds, there are permanent "smudge" marks that do not wipe away with a microfiber cloth.

It looks like the anti-reflective coating is failing or peeling (Staingate)?

Has anyone successfully stripped the coating on this specific 14-inch model without damaging the Mini-LED backlight or glass?

Any insights or advice would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Commented May 27, 2026 at 14:51 MST

⟐ Answered May 27, 2026 at 6:05 MST

⟐ Answered May 26, 2026 at 14:35 MST

I touch it once and it puts two b characters for me most of the time, but not always. This key is much looser and more sensitive than the others.

Suggested by @pydev, I removed the key cap. It does work flawlessly without the key cap. But when I put it back, same old story.

Any ideas?

—

Update: Here's a software solution working around the problem.

Update: Apple has announced a MBP Late 2016 — Butterfly keyboard's key double hit problem for macbooks with butterfly keyboard.

⟐ Commented May 26, 2026 at 11:46 MST

Recently, keys in the top-right hand section of the keyboard have started repeating continuously. The worst are the volume up/down function keys, but also others such as the “\” key.

I thought that the keyboard was probably the problem so I transplanted the logic board into a spare identical 17” MacBook Pro case that included its own keyboard, and the problem moved with the logic board. Hence I presume the problem lies with the logic board.

The Mac has been extremely reliable until a couple of years ago when I had the board repaired for a different problem but now I’m reluctant to spend more money on it.

Any ideas as to what could be causing the problem, and how to rectify it? Or is it time to retire the MacBook Pro? Thank you.

Thanks Dan. Please see the two images attached - one of the connector with the keyboard ribbon cable connected, and one of the end of the unconnected ribbon cable. But, as described in my original post, this is the second case and keyboard (and hence the second keyboard cable) that I’ve tried and it seems unlikely to me that the same problem would persist between two separate keyboards and keyboard cables, etc. Thanks for your help.

⟐ Answered May 26, 2026 at 11:32 MST

However, if I shut down macbook, the MacBook can be charged in any way, such as MagSafe, and all USB-C ports can be used.

But the charging power is only 5W.

⟐ Commented May 26, 2026 at 7:50 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 26, 2026 at 9:16 MST

One end clips to the underside of the “power button assembly”, and another clips to the “antenna housing”.

PICOEZMATE is what the wire and connector are called.

edit: This seems to be the way

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhEsgx8O...

⟐ Answer edited May 30, 2026 at 5:59 MST

I asked Chat GPT:

• SSD power rail missing or unstable
• Corrosion/liquid damage around SSD connector
• Broken SSD PCIe data lines
• Clock/reset signal issue
• PCH communication fault
• SMC-related power gating issue

The “33 KB device” symptom usually means Recovery only sees its own RAM disk or recovery environment, not the actual internal SSD

1. Measure SSD power rails
   You should verify:
2. PP3V3_SSD
3. SSD enable signals
4. PCIe reset

⟐ Edited by author May 25, 2026 at 2:48 MST

33kb Volume only is displayed. Unable to partition or erase.

Attempting to install Catalina on a unit that previously had Catalina installed.

Ignore the other drive that is highlighted as that is my external multi installer drive.

It is the same thing with another SSD except the other drive isn't listed at all, just the base system. Failed drives?

Windows was never installed on either of these drives, this has been confirmed by previous owners.

This is relevant to my other post 3x 64 GB SSD - Q Folder @ Boot

UPDATE: Tried with a Windows installer.

SSD (1) Gave me this:

SSD (2) Gave me this:

After hitting OK it rebooted to the Q folder.

Chap GPT suggests the following.

• SSD power rail missing or unstable
• Corrosion/liquid damage around SSD connector
• Broken SSD PCIe data lines
• Clock/reset signal issue
• PCH communication fault
• SMC-related power gating issue

The “33 KB device” symptom usually means Recovery only sees its own RAM disk or recovery environment, not the actual internal SSD

2. Measure SSD power rails
   You should verify:
3. PP3V3_SSD
4. SSD enable signals
5. PCIe reset

⟐ Edited by author May 25, 2026 at 2:46 MST

⟐ Commented May 24, 2026 at 12:59 MST

⟐ Commented May 24, 2026 at 5:53 MST

This laptop worked flawlessly up till Feb 2021, when the battery died —seven years, kudos for the quality control! I had iFixit's for a good reputation brand and decided to buy a replacement battery to extend my machine's life. Well, the new battery worked as expected, but died suddenly on Sep 2023, just 2 ½ years after being installed.

Since I still had use for this laptop, I decided to buy another replacement from iFixit on Oct 2023. This battery lasted exactly the same as the first one: it died on me last month (Apr 2026).

So, I'm wondering if it's just me or these items last less than half —almost a third— as an original Apple battery. If I had known, I would have taken the laptop to the original service center for repair. Anyone from iFixit here to answer my question? Because I'm about to buy from another provider, since my two purchases didn't live up to expectations.

⟐ Commented May 24, 2026 at 1:54 MST

⟐ Answer accepted May 23, 2026 at 21:01 MST

⟐ Commented May 23, 2026 at 8:25 MST

The issue is that the outer ropy isolation layer fell out of the connector for some reason (the end that plugs into the MacBook), is there any way to disassemble it and put the ropy stuff back in? the inner isolation is fully in tact (the black layer underneath the rope) and the charger works fine. but those ropes keep bothering me...

⟐ Commented May 23, 2026 at 3:54 MST

But here is the question: without microsolder experience/ability, is there something else I can do than pay $200+ for a reflow job? For example, one microsolder tech recommended that I pop the logic board (all by itself, disassembled from the laptop) in an oven at 450 degrees for 5 minutes. If that’s safe to do, I’d much prefer that to a $200 repair, as long as I don’t risk destroying the whole thing.

You microsolder wizards out there, what would you recommend? Or where would you recommend that can do the repair for cheap? I’ve already replaced the laptop, so now I’m just repairing to resell.

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented May 22, 2026 at 8:20 MST