Manufacturer : "ShanWan"
Product : "USB WirelessGamepad "

Device ID : HID\VID_2563&PID_0575\7&17507071&2&0000
Hardware IDs : HID\VID_2563&PID_0575&REV_0200 HID\VID_2563&PID_0575

They were working fine until I transferred my windows from old SSD to new SSD.
When I enter every game I have series of button ( I think they are repeating ) is pressed every 5 to 20 seconds. for example circle back back down start circle even some keys pressed together( up+start+circle).
it is very amazing when I turned the controller off and just dongles attached.
I have tested it on android device and my smart tv and there is no more automatic buttons

⟐ Answered September 01, 2026 at 23:49 MST

⟐ Commented September 01, 2026 at 23:46 MST

My PS4 Pro suddenly desided to die on me. It is showing me the blod. Now, I have been doing a lot of testing an experimenting trying to figure out why, but I haven' t really found anything. I'll describe first what it exactly does and then what i tried.

The symptoms:

1. I plug in an HMDI and power cable
2. I press start on the console (my controllers are dead)
3. The PS4 Pro turns on with a blinking blue light and no display out.
4. Extra info: the fan spins up to a slow speed, the disk drive does eject and accept disks and turns them aswell and the HDD does spin to life
5. nothing else happens except it gets very hot to the touch above the psu (but imo this could also be cause the fan is barely spinning)
6. i turned it back of since there was no change for 25 min
7. I tried safe mode by pressing the powerbutton longer from the power off state
8. it first beeps once and turns on with the same blod, while i am still holding the powerbutton
9. after 11 or so seconds it beeps again and it turns back off. so no safe mode possible

The things i already tried:

• safe mode
• replacing the cr2032 coin cel bios battery
• different methodes of safe mode and wired controller combinations
• hdd removal and replacement
• differen power and hdmi cables
• different tv and monitor
• opening everything up for cleaning and checkup
• checking on bad capacitors or resistors, checking fuses
• checking for rust or other fysical problems
• checking for shorts on the power rails of the main motherboard
• checking the output voltages of the psu, which are 11.8V on the 2 big metal pins and 4.8V, 4.6V and a feedback 3.2V one on the little cable connector
• connecting a desktop 300W PSU to the 12V rail of the ps4 while keeping the 4.8 and 4.6v of the og psu

Whatever i try, it keeps doing the same thing. There is no change whats o ever. Also important to know, the blinking blue light stays on forever. It's not like the PS4 Pro turns off after a few seconds or minutes.

I think i have mentioned everything i tried but i might have forgot some, ill say those if i remember when someone commends.

But, my main question is the following. Since none of the results seem to indicate a specific component, like for a short on the 4.8V rail it is often the HDMI encode chip, i have no real next step available to check or test. Is it worthed to mangle the PSU wires to also use the 5V of the Deskop PSU and completely remove the PS4 PSU? Should i try to buy a new PSU for it or does someone think its not enough evidence that the psu is not the culprit? Should i just go for a second hand PS4 Pro? Most PS4 Pro's in my region go for about 180 euro's if i recall correctly, and a new PSU for 65-90 euro's. If someone says it needs to be reflowed I'd probs buy a second hand one cause the reflowing in my region is like 135 euro's without the probably mandetory diagnose of 90 euro's. I can not do a reflow myself, cause i dont have the correct equipment. Any help is appriciated!

PS.: for clarification purposes: yes, i opened the PSU and all other components to test them. Do not worry, I am an electronics engineer, i know what i am doing and am comfortable to do so. It's just that i do not know the PS4 Pro and it symptoms since i mainly design electronics, not repair them. And the repairs i do do are usually Desktop, laptops or household electronics. Also i apologise for  my bad English, its not my native language.

Hello!

This answer is an extension of the comments on the answer of @dan0 .

So, I have some extra questions related to the reflowing. I'll write down my plan followed with the questions.

I am in possession of a flir camera, an hairdryer and an hot-air-soldering station. My plan was to first heat the complete motherboard with the hairdryer to make the complete board equal in temperature. Theni would proceed with the soldering station with the biggest modus (no extra tip) of 1.3 cm wide to make a looping movement over the APU and the RAM in a fluent and as consistent as possible movement. At least, that was my plan. However, there are a few things hope to get information on regarding this:

• How am I supposed to do both the APU and RAM? They seem to be on the oposit sides of the motherboard. If I heat one side, won't the other side also get reflowed in the worst way possible, since it's upside down? Afterall, this is the motherboard with the red circle around what i presume is the RAM:

• How hot does the motherboard need to be with the hairdryer? I can measure this with the flir camera.
• How hot do I need to set the hot air soldering station?
• How fast does the hot air station need to blow: 50%, 20%, 80%, ...?
• Will this hairdryer and hot air station combination work instead of the hot air gun in the PS3 video?
• Does the APU and RAM need to be a certain temp or do I just need to set the hot air station to a certain temp and keep it on the APU for a certain total amount of time? And in either case, what are the amounts?

I like to have a lot of information so I wont break it unnecessarily. There are a lot of questions since I have never done a reflow,

Thanks already for all the info!

⟐ Commented September 01, 2026 at 23:42 MST

I’ve already ruled out the Ethernet cable by testing with another one, and I’ve seen others report similar issues online without a clear solution.

Side note: my HDMI port is loose, and I have to angle the cable for a stable display connection. I’m wondering if there could be any relation between the two issues maybe heat, board stress, or internal damage affecting both ports.

Would it make sense to replace the HDMI port first and see if that resolves the LAN issue, or is this more likely related to the Ethernet port or its solder connections?

⟐ Commented September 01, 2026 at 21:06 MST

⟐ Commented September 01, 2026 at 8:01 MST

⟐ Answered September 01, 2026 at 4:22 MST

⟐ Commented September 01, 2026 at 3:16 MST

⟐ Answered September 01, 2026 at 0:22 MST

⟐ Commented August 31, 2026 at 21:56 MST

I read on this thread that this issue is caused because of dirt between the contact surfaces of the cable sheet and the trigger and the solution was to just clean them. I've replaced the cable sheet before so I knew how to clean it safely, and so I did, but after I reassembled everything the r2 trigger stopped working all together. The reading in DS4Windows show that the R2 is completely dependent on the left stick now. It doesn't spontaneously activate itself now, but the &&^&^$^ left stick is controlling it.

Here is a demonstration. Can anyone help me out with this? What could be the issue? I found this thread on IFixit which describes the exact problem, but its for the Xbox controller. I don't seem to understand what parts are the DS4 equivalent to be able to narrow down the problem for myself.

⟐ Commented August 31, 2026 at 14:08 MST

⟐ Answer accepted August 31, 2026 at 9:08 MST

⟐ Commented August 31, 2026 at 3:27 MST

⟐ Answered August 30, 2026 at 22:18 MST

⟐ Answered August 30, 2026 at 22:14 MST

⟐ Answered August 30, 2026 at 22:11 MST

⟐ Answered August 30, 2026 at 22:08 MST

⟐ Answered August 30, 2026 at 22:05 MST

⟐ Answered August 30, 2026 at 22:03 MST

⟐ Commented August 30, 2026 at 21:52 MST

I'm assuming the actual issue of compatibility is the different style of stem that has a thread to screw the Elite series thumbstick cover on. If that is the case, then my second question is if it is possible to replace the stem of the Gulikit thumbstick with the stems from Elite thumbsticks or not? I would really like to be able to replace the thumbsticks with TMR type if possible. The product page states that lack of calibration software is the issue, but I believe that is incorrect and the real problem is the stem difference. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone that has attempted this or knows enough about the TMR joysticks to know if they can be modified to fit the Elite 2. Thanks.

⟐ Commented August 28, 2026 at 17:24 MST