⟐ Answered April 30, 2026 at 7:21 MST

⟐ Answered April 30, 2026 at 7:15 MST

And yet the laptop does not work as usual. First time it took ages until it could load the log-in screen. And it didn't got better afterwards either. The "SYMPTOMS" include:

• very long response time to basic commands such as close the tab or move the cursor;
• battery status is not shown - neither on the tab nor in settings; I suppose the computer does not "see" it;
• fans start to work at full speed as soon as I open the lid and continue like this - no matter the task - and albeit MBP is not even warm.

That's it. I've got to say that I didn't exchange the battery. The only way I came into contact with it is at a step where the battery power connector is disconnected (and then connected); and the same with the battery board data cable.

I've read here and there about those "symptoms" and it seems that (1) working slowly with (2) fans at full speed albeit no need to cool the computer down indicates that my MBP is running in a safe mode. Well, I would like to know whether you guys think this too.

Where could have I done sth. wrong in the assembly to cause this behavior? Or what else could be the reason?

After going through the manual (MacBook Pro (16 Zoll, 2019) Display tauschen - iFixit Reparaturanleitung) again I believe to have narrowed down the list of possible causes to just four connections that might not sit just right:

1. 1. Display board flex cable (German: Flachbandkabel; step no. 19)
2. 2. Antenna cables (Antennenkabel; steps no. 22-23)
   3. Battery board data cable (Akkuplatinen-Datenkabel; steps no. 11-14)
3. 4. Battery power connector (Akkustrom Stecker; steps no. 15-16)

But I don't want to disassemble the computer just yet, bcs. I am still not sure whether the cause is not sth. else, e.g. faulty display (item) or I broke sth. else during the process. So who knows what the cause of the behavior described might be? And how to fix it.

@danj thank for advice. However, yesterday after posting this question I chatted with FixBot here. It wasn't completely precise, but in general I understood that the issue most likely lies within the bad battery data cable connection. Without doing diagnostics first I risked and disassembled the cover again to check connections manually. Now it works.

It's interesting, I thought that the issue was that one or both sides of the battery data cable weren't fully in the socket. AI said (falsely) that gold pins a) should be put face down to the logic board and b) they need to be full way in to make full contact with the socket. Both of which are false, however. I checked a) with a YT-video where this model gets disassembled - gold pins should face upwards, as in the photo (guide is correct). And b) can be checked with another YT-video too, but also I tried it this way and that way to get it fully inside and it's impossible. I might have even bended one side of golden pins slightly. So DO NOT do it. It's just strange that they do not go fully inside and also aren't really fixed (only with those tiny ears).

However, after reseating this battery data cable with the battery power connector in reverse order (first connect the battery data cable to the logic board side, which is away from the middle of the computer, then battery power connector, then another side of the battery data cable to the battery side, which is to the middle of the computer), it works. ''''

//This discrepancy remains in the guide bcs. there they just say "redo in reverse order to assemble", which means that the battery power connector gets connected before the battery data cable and, according to the FixBot, can cause a short circuit, esp. if cable is not inserted straight. ‼️

So I did not change anything as I see it; also checked other parts I touched during screen replacement procedures: everything looked perfectly aligned and I did not touch them. But believe it or not, after putting each screw back, plugging in the computer and turning it on, I got this: a) no roaring fans; b) usual processing speed; c) battery status is back. So just as it should be. The conclusion is: it was either bad connection of the cable to the socket or a ZIF brake maybe was not flat entirely; or exactly the order of the steps, as AI suggested (however in YT-video they also do it as in the guide: first power, then data).

I hope my detailed answer will help anyone facing similar issues after reassembly.

⟐ Edited by author April 30, 2026 at 7:07 MST

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 6:47 MST

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 6:25 MST

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 6:23 MST

English: Got into the water in the tank and somehow it's been broken for a few days

⟐ Edited April 30, 2026 at 8:08 MST

⟐ Answered April 30, 2026 at 5:49 MST

help my joystick aint stick drifting its more like Tokyo drifting, I have attached media of one.

my main controller had trigger issues which was giving a response when I wasn't even using the triggers so I used the same conductive film but switched the hardware of my other controller's pcb board which wasnt turning on and then the trigger issue was resolved but the that Tokyo drift issue came up so I guess the board is the issue but I'm not sure

⟐ Edited April 30, 2026 at 4:47 MST

Pressing the L2 trigger induced an input on the right joystick's Y axis. So pressing L2 made the camera go up.

What I've attempted: Opening up the controller, cleaning it, and making sure all the contacts were clean and aligned. Once that was done, I test it again on gpadtester and it was still displaying the same fault. So I thought maybe the joystick was faulty and leaking current somehow and de-soldered it. It's still behaving the same even without any joystick there, it just pegs the value further up. Is this a known issue? Is the main PCB toast? I can't think of anything else other than a drifted resistor somewhere or a PCB crack, which probably wouldn't be worth repairing. Any tips appreciated!

Image of what gpadtester looks like when pressing L2 with no joystick installed. When released, the input hovers near the edge of the circle. When pressing, it goes up.

Hi again, I've changed the circuit membrane, and now the two triggers are stuck on 1 no matter whether I press them or not. I've checked and both the membrane and the gaskets are seated properly. All other buttons are working. The right joystick is still empty. Any idea what the issue could be? Thanks!

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 4:44 MST

My DeLonghi Bend Line HFX65V20 stopped responding. I took it apart. There is a component that catches my attention, I do not know what it is or if what it has on the outside is normal or it has melted. I need help. I leave you photos so you can study it .

Summary:

Do you think that component is in bad condition?

What is that component?

Regards,

David

Hi @jayeff,

Thanks for you answer.

Let’s me show the other board:

At first glance I cannot identify problems here. The bz1 was my hope, because I do not have the expertise to discover the problem myself if it is a component that externally seems good.

Any idea??

Thanks again,

David

Hello everyone,

I was about to ressemble the Heater and I notices that the board makes a little sound when shaken. After touching, shaking, close-hearing and think it comes from inside the TOS1 (RBS31) the black box near the BZ1 boozer.

Is it a transitor? (for me to know first)

Is it suppose to have a loose piece inside?

Is it possible to be the cause for the whole board not to function?

Is it possible to verify/change this little box?

Or maybe avoid the whole board and make the heater work directly? (I doubt it but ask anyway)

EDIT:

The box is something like this:

https://www.mouser.it/datasheet/2/209/jo...

Tilt sensor.

Thanks a lot,

David

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 3:23 MST

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 2:37 MST

https://streamable.com/d31n26

Thanks

⟐ Answer accepted April 30, 2026 at 2:29 MST

⟐ Answered April 30, 2026 at 2:25 MST

⟐ Commented April 30, 2026 at 2:17 MST