Repairing iPad 2 Wi-Fi Power/Mute/Volume buttons cable
Replace the cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on your iPad.
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Marshall in Baltimore
Very difficult
iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415
Use this guide to replace a broken cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on the right side of the iPad 2.
This is a very difficult repair. To gain access to this cable, you must first remove the front panel, LCD, and the rear camera.
Use this guide to replace a broken cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on the right side of the iPad 2.
This is a very difficult repair. To gain access to this cable, you must first remove the front panel, LCD, and the rear camera.
Heat gun or hair dryer
iFixit Guitar Picks set of 6
Phillips 00 Screwdriver
Plastic Opening Tools
An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.
Installing iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Front Panel
Installing iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 LCD
Installing iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Rear Facing Camera
<strong>The iPad 2 is an extremely difficult device to open. Before attempting this guide, be aware that you may break your front panel and/or deform the plastic bezel around it during the opening sequence.</strong>
'''The iPad 2 is an extremely difficult device to open. Before attempting this guide, be aware that you may break your front panel and/or deform the plastic bezel around it during the opening sequence.'''
In the following steps you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rear panel. Try not to allow the stream of hot air to contact the thin plastic strip around the outer perimeter of the front panel as it may melt, permanently deform, and lose texture.
In the following steps you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rear panel. Try not to allow the stream of hot air to contact the thin plastic strip around the outer perimeter of the front panel as it may melt, permanently deform, and lose texture.
When heating up the front panel, the goal is to loosen the adhesive located in the areas highlighted in red in the second picture. When prying up the front panel, be especially careful not to damage the Wi-Fi antenna in the area boxed in blue or the digitizer cable in the area boxed in black in the second picture.
When heating up the front panel, the goal is to loosen the adhesive located in the areas highlighted in red in the second picture. When prying up the front panel, be especially careful not to damage the Wi-Fi antenna in the area boxed in blue or the digitizer cable in the area boxed in black in the second picture.
Use a heat gun to gently heat the front panel to the right of the home button.
Use a heat gun to gently heat the front panel to the right of the home button.
Do not heat up the home button, as it is plastic and easily melts/deforms.
Do not heat up the home button, as it is plastic and easily melts/deforms.
When prying up the glass take great care near the lock, mute and volume. The ribbon cable is fragile and is often glued to the digitizer. It will tear easily when the glass is pried up. Working from the lock button downward and staying flush with the underside of the glass will give you the best chance of not tearing the ribbon cable.
When prying up the glass take great care near the lock, mute and volume. The ribbon cable is fragile and is often glued to the digitizer. It will tear easily when the glass is pried up. Working from the lock button downward and staying flush with the underside of the glass will give you the best chance of not tearing the ribbon cable.
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Once the area of the front panel to the right of the home button has been heated adequately, it should be easy to insert a plastic opening tool between the outer plastic bezel and the front panel right next to the home button.
Once the area of the front panel to the right of the home button has been heated adequately, it should be easy to insert a plastic opening tool between the outer plastic bezel and the front panel right next to the home button.
Use your plastic opening tool to gently create a small gap between the front panel and the outer bezel to the right of the home button.
Use your plastic opening tool to gently create a small gap between the front panel and the outer bezel to the right of the home button.
If the adhesive is difficult to separate, don't be afraid to heat it up again. Excessively prying and bending the front panel when the adhesive is not pliable enough can easily cause it to crack.
If the adhesive is difficult to separate, don't be afraid to heat it up again. Excessively prying and bending the front panel when the adhesive is not pliable enough can easily cause it to crack.
Insert a guitar pick into the small gap created by the plastic opening tool.
Insert a guitar pick into the small gap created by the plastic opening tool.
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Heat up the area of the front bezel to the right of the home button along the bottom edge and make your way closer to the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Heat up the area of the front bezel to the right of the home button along the bottom edge and make your way closer to the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Slide the first guitar pick toward the bottom right corner of the iPad and insert another guitar pick to maintain the gap between the front panel and the iPad next to the home button.
Slide the first guitar pick toward the bottom right corner of the iPad and insert another guitar pick to maintain the gap between the front panel and the iPad next to the home button.
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Use your heat gun to heat the edge of the front panel near the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Use your heat gun to heat the edge of the front panel near the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Gently slide a guitar pick around the edge of the bottom right corner of the front panel, being careful not to force it and reheating the panel if necessary.
Gently slide a guitar pick around the edge of the bottom right corner of the front panel, being careful not to force it and reheating the panel if necessary.
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Continue heating the outer edge of the front panel and using guitar picks to separate/space the front panel from the rear panel.
Continue heating the outer edge of the front panel and using guitar picks to separate/space the front panel from the rear panel.
Insert two guitar picks as placeholders on each side of the iPad.
Insert two guitar picks as placeholders on each side of the iPad.
Be careful when approaching the bottom left corner of the iPad. Be sure to follow the next step carefully.
Be careful when approaching the bottom left corner of the iPad. Be sure to follow the next step carefully.
When prying up the glass take great care near the lock, mute and volume. The ribbon cable is fragile and is often glued to the digitizer. It will tear easily when the glass is pried up. Working from the lock button downward and staying flush with the underside of the glass will give you the best chance of not tearing the ribbon cable.
When prying up the glass take great care near the lock, mute and volume. The ribbon cable is fragile and is often glued to the digitizer. It will tear easily when the glass is pried up. Working from the lock button downward and staying flush with the underside of the glass will give you the best chance of not tearing the ribbon cable.
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When separating the front panel from the bottom left corner of the iPad 2, be careful not to rip the digitizer cable (highlighted in red in the first picture). It is extremely thin and easy to tear.
When separating the front panel from the bottom left corner of the iPad 2, be careful not to rip the digitizer cable (highlighted in red in the first picture). It is extremely thin and easy to tear.
Slightly lift the front panel near the dock connector to separate it from the foam adhesive securing it to the LCD.
Slightly lift the front panel near the dock connector to separate it from the foam adhesive securing it to the LCD.
Use a guitar pick to help cut the foam adhesive securing the perimeter of the LCD to the front panel.
Use a guitar pick to help cut the foam adhesive securing the perimeter of the LCD to the front panel.
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Carefully rotate the front panel away from the iPad, being sure that no adhesive is still attaching the two components.
Carefully rotate the front panel away from the iPad, being sure that no adhesive is still attaching the two components.
Do not put excessive strain on the digitizer cable.
Do not put excessive strain on the digitizer cable.
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Lay the front panel next to the rest of the iPad 2.
Lay the front panel next to the rest of the iPad 2.
Do not attempt to completely remove the front panel assembly just yet, as it is still attached to the logic board via the display ribbon cable.
Do not attempt to completely remove the front panel assembly just yet, as it is still attached to the logic board via the display ribbon cable.
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Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.
Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.
Lay the LCD on the front panel as seen in the second picture.
Lay the LCD on the front panel as seen in the second picture.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the metal retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the logic board.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the metal retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the display data cable out of its socket on the logic board.
Pull the display data cable out of its socket on the logic board.
Do not lift upward on the display data cable connector as you disconnect it.
Do not lift upward on the display data cable connector as you disconnect it.
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Remove the LCD assembly from the iPad 2.
Remove the LCD assembly from the iPad 2.
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Carefully peel the rubber cover off the metal camera retainer and remove it from the iPad 2.
Carefully peel the rubber cover off the metal camera retainer and remove it from the iPad 2.
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Remove the following two screws:
Remove the following two screws:
One 3.3 mm Phillips screw
One 3.3 mm Phillips screw
One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
Lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its recess in the rear panel.
Lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its recess in the rear panel.
Be sure the small thermal pad is attached to the metal retaining clip as seen in the third picture when replacing the rear facing camera.
Be sure the small thermal pad is attached to the metal retaining clip as seen in the third picture when replacing the rear facing camera.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the control board.
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the control board.
Remove the rear facing camera.
Remove the rear facing camera.
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Once the LCD panel and rear camera are removed, you can begin removing the Power, Mute, Volume cable (hereafter called the PMV cable for short).
Once the LCD panel and rear camera are removed, you can begin removing the Power, Mute, Volume cable (hereafter called the PMV cable for short).
The PMV cable starts near the end of the control board cable that runs between two of the battery units, and runs in a complicated path along the side and corner of the iPad. (see photos 1 and 2)
The PMV cable starts near the end of the control board cable that runs between two of the battery units, and runs in a complicated path along the side and corner of the iPad. (see photos 1 and 2)
The end of the PMV cable is wrapped in tape. Begin by removing this tape to expose the silver rectangular connector on the end of the cable. (see photo 3)
The end of the PMV cable is wrapped in tape. Begin by removing this tape to expose the silver rectangular connector on the end of the cable. (see photo 3)
Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift free the rectangular connector.
Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift free the rectangular connector.
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Now you must disassemble the side switches.
Now you must disassemble the side switches.
Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw from the volume switch mechanism.
Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw from the volume switch mechanism.
Remove the two 5.0 mm Phillips screws from the mute slider mechanism.
Remove the two 5.0 mm Phillips screws from the mute slider mechanism.
If you have not already removed the rear camera, do so now.
If you have not already removed the rear camera, do so now.
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Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws from the back of the power switch mechanism.
Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws from the back of the power switch mechanism.
You can then push in on the power switch (on the exterior of the iPad) to push the mechanism's internal metal plate loose.
You can then push in on the power switch (on the exterior of the iPad) to push the mechanism's internal metal plate loose.
You can then peel the PMV cable free from the iPad's case, working backwards from the power switch towards the mute switch.
You can then peel the PMV cable free from the iPad's case, working backwards from the power switch towards the mute switch.
Lift free the small metal frame piece supporting the mute and volume switches.
Lift free the small metal frame piece supporting the mute and volume switches.
Note: The photo shows the mute and volume switch frame being removed before the rear camera and power switch; this is possible but it's probably best to start with the power switch first.
Note: The photo shows the mute and volume switch frame being removed before the rear camera and power switch; this is possible but it's probably best to start with the power switch first.
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The PMV cable itself is a complicated piece with three integrated buttons and a switch slider.
The PMV cable itself is a complicated piece with three integrated buttons and a switch slider.
You will need to carefully peel off the old cable free from the ipad frame and the two metal supports (one for the power switch, one for the mute and volume switches).
You will need to carefully peel off the old cable free from the ipad frame and the two metal supports (one for the power switch, one for the mute and volume switches).
Note that each button is held in place with a tiny bit of adhesive. Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift them free.
Note that each button is held in place with a tiny bit of adhesive. Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift them free.
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Now assemble the replacement PMV cable to the two metal brackets.
Now assemble the replacement PMV cable to the two metal brackets.
Each button has on its underside two tiny black plastic pegs which fit into holes in the metal frames, to ensure the proper fit. Make sure to line these up properly when attaching the cable to the metal frames. The reassembled cable should look as shown in the figures.
Each button has on its underside two tiny black plastic pegs which fit into holes in the metal frames, to ensure the proper fit. Make sure to line these up properly when attaching the cable to the metal frames. The reassembled cable should look as shown in the figures.
Install the new cable working from the power switch back towards the mute and volume switches and then to the cable connector, snaking the PMV cable along its complicated path.
Install the new cable working from the power switch back towards the mute and volume switches and then to the cable connector, snaking the PMV cable along its complicated path.
The replacement part should have adhesive patches to hold the cable in place.
The replacement part should have adhesive patches to hold the cable in place.
Attaching the rectangular cable connector is tricky as there is little clearance from the edge of the iPad case. It may be helpful to use a plastic opening tool to push it gently until it snaps into place.
Attaching the rectangular cable connector is tricky as there is little clearance from the edge of the iPad case. It may be helpful to use a plastic opening tool to push it gently until it snaps into place.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.