Teardowns I've Worked On
Page 1 of 5
Guides I've Contributed To
Page 1 of 6
- I have a Nexus 7 32GB WiFi tablet I use, but I had this crazy idea I have the case of a semi busted Acer Aspire One ZG5 8.9" ...
- My Dell 2007WFP 20" 16:10 LCD monitor from 2006 is starting to show signs of failure Here's what it does On a light backgroun...
- I just got this printer and I did get it going, and it's a nice printer, except one feature I never liked on these HP color l...
- I have a Dell Dimension 5150 system from 2006 running Ubuntu Linux 12.10 64-bit with a nVidia GeForce 9500GT 1GB GDDR2 video ...
- I currently use a IPhone 4 16GB on AT&T and the contract is expiring soon, so I will get a new phone soon that's more suitabl...
- I am working on an MSI Hetis 945 barebone PC I got from the neighbors I'm able to keep with some serious room for upgrades, a...
- So I go to use my magic mouse and i found it was not turning on So I did what anyone would do, replace the batteries NOT! the...
- My friend has a 4S and i kinda like the battery life, but I do not want a 4S, mainly because I have a 4, hacked siri on LEGAL...
- I have my old dumpster iMac G3 here with some issues i am looking into The speakers are shot, but I will not bother, read on ...
- I got a iPod nano for 10$ and it does work, but it is scratched up like mad on the back Is there anything i can try to to rem...
Page 1 of 12
- I'm thinking there may be debris under the keyboard from being in storage causing it to not make contact, providing the ribbon cable isn't loose, or the rubber dome for the A is broken On laptops, there is a rubber dome that's usually glued directly to the keymap in it due to size constraints; if this breaks off, or wears out, you need to replace the keyboard because it's usually glued onto the keymap, and the key hinge is put on after that To pop laptop keys off to check for dirt or damaged rubber domes, put your finger nail under one part of the key and lift up on the key, making sure the scissor hinge stays on the keyboard; from there, check for any dirt and blow it out, or look for a loose rubber dome that is causing the issue If it's dirt, blow it out If it's a bad key dome, you need a keyboard If you can't get a keyboard cheap enough, you can try using a small amount of superglue where the dome lines up if busted off, but don't glue your finger and know this is a last resort fix and may cause more damag...
- You may want to check for a recovery partition; due to the lack of DVD drive in netbooks and ultrabooks(and OEM cheapness to include disks), these laptops usually have some sort of recovery partition stored on the HD The only way you would lose this is upgrading the HD, hitting the HD with a OEM Windows disk that doesn't have this, using DBAN on the drive or replacing a dead HD in the netbook, or corrupted At the BIOS splash screen, see if there is a option that says "system recovery" and then press that key; if it has the recovery partition, it should load on it unless it's deleted or corrupted you WILL lose ALL OF YOUR DATA doing this! See if you can pull your data off on another machine if you have a SATA cable and system with SATA first if you can do this! After that, run a factory restore on the netbook
- From the look of the design, it looks like a Intel motherboard made to Dell specification Dell didn't use Foxconn motherboards in this machine This could be a proprietary to Dell design model(OEM motherboard), or a consumer one that was modified to meet Dell's specification with the memory cap, chipset, southbridge, CPU limitations, remove the overclocking and whatever else Dell wants done There's no way to be sure if it's a OEM channel motherboard or modified consumer board
- It's a damaged cable then, because the cables controlling the red and green are busted in that monitor, but the yellow wires are fine If it's a CRT with a permanently attached VGA cable, you will have to check the pinout of the damaged VGA cable in the monitor, but a new VGA cable, check it's pinout and match them up, and solder a new VGA cable CRT's can carry 25,000 volts or more, so unless you are sure how to properly handle HV components and how to discharge a CRT, DO NOT OPEN IT! IT CAN KILL YOU IF YOU TOUCH IT IN THE WRONG PLACE! If you have to get another CRT, pick one up from a thrift store for 5.00 If you don't know how to work in one safely, get rid of it or send it off to someone who knows how to fix them without killing themselves; your life is worth more then that CRT monitor! If it's a CRT with a replaceable cable, any standard VGA cable will work All LCD monitors should have replaceable video cables
- Here's how you do it First, you need a program called Tiny Umbrella for Windows or Mac, because this is why you can't upgrade it; because it's being verified through Apple's server and they're not allowing it because of the max OS Apple has set for the phone, which is not 4.3.3, so it's not allowing the upgrade because you're not bypassing the Apple server Then you will put the firmware on the desktop, and then that is that Next, on Mac, press command, or on PC, control Next, select the firmware on your desktop and then select it, and the phone should restore with it iPod Touch 2nd Generation firmware Downgrade(Mac users)
- I think you're referring to a HD password, am I right? You have the replace the HD, because HD passwords are encrypted and nearly impossible to crack unless you know how..... it's better to replace the HD because if it's cracked wrong, you will need to buy a new HD anyway due to a bricked BIOS if you crack the password wrong and screw up Because it's a EEPROM, it's read only unless in a certain mode; screw up a password crack and it's done unless you can fix it! I can't suggest a password crack to most people I am not saying you can't try to crack this password, just know you run the very real risk of bricking the drive beyond repair. If you cannot do it once you see how hard it really is, walk away and replace the HD, because you WILL brick the HD if you screw up Before you potentially end up messing with the EEPROM with cracking tools, try wiping out the HD first and see what happens; it probably won't work, but try it anyway Get a program called DBAN, and burn this to a CD, which you can get here, and burn...
- These older Epson inkjet printers are notorious for clogging, especially if you stick to using genuine Epson cartridges, because their ink is thicker then I care to admit, and combining age with think ink just makes for a recipe for disaster in the printhead, because the ink is so thick, it clogs that bad; this fix worked on my Epson R200 before the printer's printhead service station failed Here's what I do to settle the problem Put some gloves on, this might get messy, but usually works(when I did mine, I didn't use gloves, and boy did I regret it) Next, put the printer in ink change mode, and unplug the printer; this allows free printhead movement Remove the ink cartridges from the printer and put those aside Put 3 or 4 napkins in the printer to catch the ink Next, you want a syringe, 91% rubbing alcohol, and plastic tubing to do this(Walgreens or CVS should sell a syringe; look for one without a needle and see about plastic tubing there too, plus they will have the alcohol; if there's no 91%, get as close...
- It sounds like you emptied your new cartridges printing those photos
- The formatter boards are notorious for going bad in these printers, I would not buy a formatter board if you can help it due to the failure rate, tough I would try and reflow it if you insist on using the printer longer, and if it fails, consider writing it off because the chance of getting a formatter board new is slim, but you can try and find a refurbished formatter board for it as those seem more reliable then the hp OEM one; you can always sell unused toner on eBay and say the printer failed if a reflow doesn't help you out When formatter boards go as I have seen them go in my school, they can put out random errors, false paper jams, lock at startup, false toner errors at startup, startup issues, network issues, printing over the network issues, and even have trouble printing from the computers at time(print from computer issues is driver or hardware, so it's a 50/50), and yours is also something I have seen happen too; I have even been able to remove the toner on these things to convince them to work a ...
- Sounds like a bug in the software, or Apple's server Restart the iPod and try again, and if not, you can get it on the computer and plug your iPod into the computer to install it to the iPod and that will work, or you're referring to the wrong iPod
Page 1 of 112
Because I got another old system in that was given to me because I needed to replace the power supply, it's an AMD system and handles Linux pretty well(I still get the Dell Dimension 5150..... this one is just dual core, unlike the Dell)
integrated ATI Xpress 200 graphics(64MB VRAM pulled from system RAM)
40GB HDD(they wanted the HD pulled)
WiFi(worked right away)
DVD-ROM and burner
It handles Linux well...... don't fret VIA, it will probably work... if not, I'd like to know, and I will need your system you used to find out the chipset too to add it to the bad AMD chipset list
doesn't look like it to me
Yes, you technically will, but the same goes if you install a custom SSD when they come out
Some people care about how easily it can be fixed and upgraded, I am one of them who care
I'll take a "brick" if i can install a standard HDD and RAM, as long as it's not too thick, besides, apple could have did this to it, while making it serviceable too in the process
Pros like to be able to fix and upgrade their own gear at a reasonable price, this will just aggravate them, and it aggravates me as a consumer/tech who cares to no end
that's why I'm keeping my 17'' from 2009! I am out of warranty on it, but it still works and I can fix it a lot easier then this abomination of a computer!
I will be a 2009 Mac owner till this is not useable, or it dies
I will get 5+ years out of this, no matter what apple tries
When they get the bill because the memory is soldered to the logicboard and it goes, they'll need a logicboard, or the SSD goes, it will be much more expensive then a off-the-shelf HDD or SSD to fix
For example, say you buy this computer and the RAM goes bad, you will need to get a logicboard, and they are not cheap, I have heard 700-1000$ or more for a logicboard, I think I heard 1500 one time
If the SSD goes bad, this is a custom part only Apple has on hand, and I promise you they will charge a LOT of this SSD if it goes bad, and it will take years for others to make SSD's that work to upgrade the storage in this computer if you need it later on, or it fails and the third party one is cheaper
If you want this, AppleCare is a must to avoid the hidden costs of custom parts and non replaceable RAM
but what if it fails? you will need a new logicboard, and I am betting it will be 1000$ or more if the memory is the only thing that goes
Not a good thing at all to do this...... 8GB for my machine costs 54.99, and I don't need a new logicboard, just new sticks of ram
As to the fused display, I would believe it's fused together and cannot be opened to just replace the glass if that's all that breaks
I'm with you
I intend to keep my 2009 MacBook Pro, and when it fails, I'll get a early 2012 17'' with the matte screen refurbished from apple I can upgrade
The battery might explode before it comes out with all the glue used, using less heat for more time may help reduce this chance tough
I can't recommend this computer to anyone....
here are my issues
soldered RAM, no upgrades, if it fails, look at replacing the logicboard
SSD is custom, no off the shelf replacements or upgrades, if it fails, apple is the only one with a SSD for this
Page 1 of 8