My husband tinkered with the settings and now the brightness is too dark, and the image is stretched vertically. This is a PC...

When jump starting a car, will revving the engine of the good car speed up the process, or does it make no diffference?

I have a MacBook Core Duo machine with an LCD that flickers. Normally I'd immediately suspect the inverter, but the behavior ...

I have a fluorescent light fixture that uses two 40-watt 4' long tubes. It has recently started acting strange. When first tu...

In incandescent bulbs, you can shake the bulb or look at the filament to tell if a bulb is dead without having to put it in a...

Unfortunately we don't have a good source for this part and don't expect to be able to get many of this part in the near future. We'll certainly be looking for other sources, but right now the only way we're able to get this part is by taking apart complete display assemblies. Since I don't think we'll have many of these soon, If you're able to find this part somewhere else I'd get it there.

Unfortunately there isn't a cheap part that includes the home button. The home button and frame is included in the complete display assembly, but that part is pretty pricey since it's the entire front half of the phone.

If you have a Mac mini that's model A1176, you'll need a hard drive that's a 2.5" SATA drive. Here's some drives that would work with your machine (there are others, these are just a few): 1) 320 GB 5400 RPM SATA 2) 500 GB 7200 RPM SATA 3) 640 GB 5400 RPM SATA Here's a link to the installation instructions If you need to return a part, just send an email to our support team and we'll get you set up with an RMA.

I have a TripleHead2Go that I use with my MacBook Pro 15" Santa Rosa machine. It's running at 3840x1024 resolution and working great. I'm running Mac OS 10.5.8 and have version 1.01.00.005 of the control panel software installed. My TripleHead2Go has a USB port for power and communicating with the control panel. I normally power the box with an external USB power adapter, but if I want to use the control panel, then I have to plug the USB plug directly into my machine. If it's plugged into an external power adapter the display still works great as long as it's pre-configured correctly, but the Matrox software doesn't detect device or allow me to change any settings in the control panel.

If you're only getting three hours of battery life, the battery's probably pretty worn down. According to Apple, you should get up to 14 hours music playback on a 30 GB iPod Video and 20 hours on the 60/80 GB iPod Video. Here's the Apple source, including their specific testing procedure: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1322 Fortunately, replacing the battery in an iPod Video is both pretty easy and not that expensive. There one thing to watch out for is that you get the correct battery, as there are two different batteries for the iPod Video. There's a thinner battery for the 30 GB model, and a thicker one for the 60/80 GB model.

The battery screws on these machines are not a normal 6-pointed Torx screw. Unfortunately the 5-pointed type screw that this machine uses is patented and screwdriver manufacturers will not sell them to the general public. Apple's clearly chosen this screw because they don't want you removing the battery. We'd love to offer the screwdrivers for sale, but haven't figured out any way that we can legally do so. The good news is that in our testing we were able to remove these screws using a 1.5 or 1.6 mm flathead screwdriver, so that's probably your best bet.

Unfortunately, opening a hard drive without a clean room probably isn't going to solve your issue. If the hard drive is clicking, it's most likely an issue with the drive's actuator arm. Some people have had success giving the drive a mild shock to free the arm, but If you're resorting to that I wouldn't trust the drive for anything important in the future. On some drives, you can replace the controller board without opening the drive. In 1.8" drives, Samsung drives are designed this way. Unfortunately, if you have an iPod Video, it likely has a Toshiba drive, meaning the controller board is integrated into the drive and can't be removed or changed without opening up the drive. If the drive's dead and you've never seen the insides of a drive, it's fun to take a look at the platter and arm inside the drive. Most 1.8 drives are held together with small Torx screws. Unfortunately, if you have a Toshiba drive they use a 5-pointed Torx bit instead of the normal 6-pointed Torx bit. The bad news is that this screw t...

If you really want to be energy efficient, you could put a LED bulb in it. The good news is they use far less power than even compact fluorescent bulbs, and last far longer. The bad news is they cost a fortune, a quick search showed $40 for a 60-watt equivalent bulb (that actually uses 7 watts). They claim a lifespan of > 50,000 hours, I'm not sure if that's true, but if it is that's about 10 times better than a compact fluorescent and 50 times better than an incandescent bulb.

I'm not sure which version of Office you're using, but for Office 2004 for Mac, there's no activation process on installation. The software does check to make sure the same key isn't being used at the same time, but if you stop using it and install the software on one machine you should then be able to reinstall it on a different machine with no issues.

Unfortunately, I think it's going to be really hard to be able to fix your current metal frame. The frame is really thin there around the battery, so there's not much area to work with to glue or otherwise attach together. If you do want to replace the frame, the good news is the part's pretty cheap. There's two different versions, one for the 800 MHz/1 GHz and another for the 1.2 GHz. The bad news is that installing a replacement frame is quite a chore. The closest guide to installing the frame is this logic board install guide. However, at the end of the guide, you'll still be left with a few other parts that you'll need to transfer to the new frame.

This is a test!

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You're right, we don't have pentalobe bits in our bit driver kit just yet. However, we've been working on a new revision of the kit that among other improvements includes pentalobe bits. The specific bit we used in the teardown was one of our preproduction samples. Unfortunately I don't have a good ETA for when we'll have these pentalobe bits available, but we are actively working on the project.

Great writing, thanks for showing how to fix your phone!

Quote from Trevor Abbott:

Do you have the weights for the component pieces in the step 31 photo?

I added the weights to the step. On my scale, the total weight of the iPad came out to 697 grams. That's definitely more than the .68 kg quoted in the Apple specs.

Quote from Jeff:

I haven't seen any mention of the microphone, but my assumption is that this is part of the headphone jack assembly (that small hole directly adjacent to the headphone jack).

Yes, the microphone is right next to the headphone jack, and the signal goes through the same ribbon cable as the headphone jack.

Quote from Jasiu:

How much does the bottom case weigh ? Battery + glass + lcd is 494g. So it should be about 150g. Is it ?

I just weighed the aluminum back by itself. It's 138 grams, which is almost exactly 20% of the iPad's total weight.

Quote from Travis Funk:

Is iFixit going to carry the T3? how about the glass?

It appears that iPad screws may actually be T4. I used a T3 bit, but others have reported success with a T4 bit. Fortunately, we include both T3 and T4 bits in the 54-piece kit that we already sell. We don't have the iPad glass yet, but we're definitely hoping to offer it in the near future. It looks like at least one person needs a replacement glass already.