- Can we simply replace the home button module with the new sensor module or are the LCD and digitizer connectors different?
- Hi there, I am hoping someone can help me out with an issue i have encountered about 3 times in the last 10 screen changes. A...
- wonder why someone down voted these answers without even saying why? It's the best way of doing it.
- You don't need it, reassemble and it will work fine without it.
- Placing the metal clip is easier than you think. With white screens the hole lines up exactly with the camera hole and with the black screens hold it up to a light source before aligning it the same way. You should make sure that metal clip is used because the screen uses the clip to lock onto the frame. Make sure all screws are seated flush in the back plate all old adhesive has been removed from the edges of the frame and also from the back of the metal shield. Don't forget the adhesive on the speaker also. Finally, you can use elastic bands wrapped around top and bottom and left overnight or use bulldog clips but be careful with them as they are a bit overpowered
- The digitizer connector on the back of the board. make sure you have connected this properly otherwise it will switch on and you won't have any navigation as you have described. 2nd one. Try the hard reset while charged. Hold power button and home button together for 20 secs.
- Looking at your video I can see that you have definitely broken the LCD. You'll need to but an LCD and digitizer assembly. make sure you buy the two already bonded and not just an LCD.
- This is a common error with self repairs. What's happening is that the flex cable for the digitizer is folding the wrong way and folding over the edge of the metal shield inside. Open it up slightly and use a spudger to go in from the side and manipulate the flex cable so that it concertinas the correct way and upwards not downwards.
- Confirmed, just stick it back where it was on the metal shield. The iPod works fine without them though.
- If the hard reset is still not working (can take up to 20 secs) then i am guessing when the screen was finally laid to rest, too much pressure was applied and damaged it. Do you not have another screen handy to test with? You only need to connect the LCD part to test, not mess about with the digi flex.
- I think Zachary is confused with an iphone 4. screen swap where that happens. yes it's tricky, You need to straighten the flex a little and then align it perfectly with the connector. Then insert the topmost edge of the connector at a downward angle towards the metal shield lip and then thumb it down. takes practice. Don't over press it as you'll damage the connector and then the ipod will be toast.
- The LCD has failed or become disconnected which is more likely after a fall. You will need to heat the screen up under a hairdryer and then using plastic picks or a sharp blade work around the home button area and sides and very carefully lift the screen from the home button are upwards. FOLLOW the instructions on the step by step guide here! Once pen reseat the connector and then if you still have a black screen hold the power button and home button together for about 20 secs. In fact try the button combo first before anything else.
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You need to be really careful when lifting the LCD up. The adhesive is strong in places and I destroyed a couple of LCD's before perfecting it.
25 steps of advertising the bag full of rice, seriously?
Be aware, When replacing the on/off button, it is extremely difficult to get the rubber mould to fit correctly behind the power button. It will in all likelihood take you a good few times before the power button works properly, so make sure you test it first before reassembling!
So, The iphone 4 screens can be used on the the iphone 4S, is that correct?
Can someone give a list of parts that are not interchangable please. so far i see:
Back Glass (markings)
PS: I'm not a fan of the attempted humour on this teardown, simple facts and not milked SiRi jokes would be better appreciated I feel.
ah ha, yes, a bit of practice is needed for sure on this, I have done quite a few now and that is by far the most frustrating part.
Biggest fear here is ripping the volume controller flex on the logic board, seen with the 4 pads top left of photo, i have had two rip on me and it's a real nuisance to change out the volume control flex. You can ignore step 10 really as you can still perform the operation without detaching the camera.
Yeah step 18 is BS, You need to pull the retainer up with a pin, not depress it. I destroyed my first nano as i pushed so hard trying to depress it that it deformed and I had to give up. Bad bad tip that needs correcting at step 18.
A couple of notes:
The copper tape on the back of the EMI shield is easily torn off. It doesn't seem to affect the unit but worth noting. When you lift the EMI shield lift it from the button end upwards, not from the side outwards to avoid tearing it.
Also, the camera shield plate which is attached to the top assembly neds to be replaced very carefuly to match the existing position otherwise when you come to reassemble the top you will not get a flush finish.
Finally, It is not neccessary to remove the whole logic board when replacing the LCD, you can remove the Camera screw, the WiFi screw and the right hand top logic board screw. Once they are removed the logic board will bend upwards about 8mm allowing you enough room to remove the old Digitizer connector and replacing the new one. It's rather fiddly but decidedly easier than removing the whole logic board.
Overall this is the hardest of the ipod touches to work on but still consdierably easier than disassembling the Nano range. Have Fun!