Hi there, I am hoping someone can help me out with an issue i have encountered about 3 times in the last 10 screen changes. A...

This is by far the most common fault I encounter on the nano 6g. followed by the broken screen. As mentioned in previous posts the issue is either the square metal shim which has shifted on the back of the button or the black dimple spot on the button itself is missing. Or Both It's a real nuisance aligning everyting back up again with the ribber gasket but you can leave that out if you wish. It is a waterproofer mostly and only adds a little spring to the button itself. The black dimple button is about this size "." so it's a bit fiddly to replace. You can use something lightly bigger but no more than 1mm thick really.

search Eb*Y for "3M Sticker Adhesive Tape For Cellphone Digitizer" and get the 1mm roll, I bought ten rolls of this stuff a year ago and i use it extensively for the ipod touch 4g. Works a treat.

The first thing any of you should do before changing the Driver IC and the coil is check the capacitors around the LCD connector. If any of these are shorted or grounding then you need to remove them one by one until the short disappears. Only if the Caps are not shorted should you start along the driver IC route as it's tricky work and you'll need decent tools and skills. Remeber to cover the POwer IC with silver foil before you start blasting around with a hot air gun! Best option is Infrared.

@dbcamaro69 I am very interested in the location of the Backlight coil and display driver IC on the ipod touches. I have many ipods that have touch screen issues and backlight failures and these two locations could bring these back to life. Can you tell me where i can find these components, I have an idea from your above post but a picture would be brilliant for a lot of us. Thanks

Can anyone else confirm that a iphone 4 Home button Flex can not be used on the Iphone 4S, I don't see any difference in the flex itself.

I have removed and replaced the pentaloupe screws on the iphone 4 and the 4s, there is no reason why you can't reuse them.

that's because they probably didn't have it in stock and ordered it just for you from China.

The black rubber goes along the edge of the logic board to protect the digitizer and lcd flex. top left edge. The gold clip should go beneath the long thin screw at the highest point of the phone, about centre.

yes and but you need to swap the camera holder. The little black moulding on the backplate of the 3gs is roundish and the 3g is squarish (maybe vice versa) but otherwise they are identical.

There are no connectors as such under there, only chips etc. There's no reason to go beneath unless you are trying to inspect certain chips or need to bathe the board in Isopropyl Alcohol. That said, you can remove 3 of the shields by simply using a guitar pick or even your finger nail to unclip the shield around it's edges and then peel them up. Just remember not to apply to much force on the board.

Be aware, When replacing the on/off button, it is extremely difficult to get the rubber mould to fit correctly behind the power button. It will in all likelihood take you a good few times before the power button works properly, so make sure you test it first before reassembling!

So, The iphone 4 screens can be used on the the iphone 4S, is that correct?

Can someone give a list of parts that are not interchangable please. so far i see:

Front Camera

Back Camera

Battery

Back Glass (markings)

any more?

PS: I'm not a fan of the attempted humour on this teardown, simple facts and not milked SiRi jokes would be better appreciated I feel.

ah ha, yes, a bit of practice is needed for sure on this, I have done quite a few now and that is by far the most frustrating part.

Biggest fear here is ripping the volume controller flex on the logic board, seen with the 4 pads top left of photo, i have had two rip on me and it's a real nuisance to change out the volume control flex. You can ignore step 10 really as you can still perform the operation without detaching the camera.

Yeah step 18 is BS, You need to pull the retainer up with a pin, not depress it. I destroyed my first nano as i pushed so hard trying to depress it that it deformed and I had to give up. Bad bad tip that needs correcting at step 18.

A couple of notes:

The copper tape on the back of the EMI shield is easily torn off. It doesn't seem to affect the unit but worth noting. When you lift the EMI shield lift it from the button end upwards, not from the side outwards to avoid tearing it.

Also, the camera shield plate which is attached to the top assembly neds to be replaced very carefuly to match the existing position otherwise when you come to reassemble the top you will not get a flush finish.

Finally, It is not neccessary to remove the whole logic board when replacing the LCD, you can remove the Camera screw, the WiFi screw and the right hand top logic board screw. Once they are removed the logic board will bend upwards about 8mm allowing you enough room to remove the old Digitizer connector and replacing the new one. It's rather fiddly but decidedly easier than removing the whole logic board.

Overall this is the hardest of the ipod touches to work on but still consdierably easier than disassembling the Nano range. Have Fun!