I've got the same problem before and after replacing a dock connector for a coworker. He didn't stick around or share the pass-code for me to test so I didn't know about the mic problem until he returned complaining about it a short while later. He couldn't leave the phone with me and didn't have the time for me to take a look, but I found people reporting DOA (dead on arrival) mics online and figured that we'd get another replacement to try again. Anyway, rather than just swapping them out a few times like I've seen some do, I'm going to do my best to make sure it's a bad part and not an installation issue. First, there were some minor differences in the replacement part. I'm not talking about a lack of epoxy over SMT components or no Kapton tape over the screw or no rubber bits in various places; I'm saying that there were differences in the traces and such. One example: The original had a bit of that conductive grounding fabric stuck on a grounding plane on the flex cable where it folds around the side, br...

Ugh. I replaced the digitizer on a coworker's iPod over a year ago and didn't fully test it because the person started working someplace else and didn't come back to pick up her iPod. It sat unused the entire time and on the day I am supposed to give it back to her I find out that the left side of the screen doesn't work exactly as described. :( &*#$. It's WAAAAY too late to contact the original part seller and, after this much waiting, waiting for replacement parts again seems ridiculous.

There isn't even a way to connect a PC BD drive. You need to replace the laser portion and there is a guide for that here if you can obtain the part.

I have a question: Will this part work with a 20GB model and allow it to use WiFi or is WiFi disabled at a lower level? I imagine that the firmware still recognizes it as a 20GB model and does not present WiFi options unless it works like a Plug 'n' Play PC.

Perhaps this guide can integrate the procedure for removing a stuck disc? Many YLOD units die with a disc in the drive and some repair service providers charge extra to remove it. What's worse, sometimes it is not your disc! I was going to send it to Sony for my repair except that the disc inside is rented and needs to be extracted right away. The repair providers who charge extra implied to me that they charge extra because the drive needs a disc reinserted if it is going to work again when booted up in a working PS3 (something about rails that would fall without a disc holding them up). I believe that they throw in a blank CD/DVD or one of those clear plastic separator discs that come in recordable disc cake-boxes on the top and bottom of the stack.

If you leave the two small screws until after you remove the top (they aren't attached) it will make things easier because the card readers will stay down and there will be no ribbon cable to deal with when removing the top.