Teardowns I've Worked On
Guides I've Contributed To
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- Last whenever it was, I bought an old radio at a car boot/ yard sale (trash and treasure- call it what you will) for the junk...
- This is just to confirm what I think to be true but if anyone knows different...I bought a 5th gen(video) ipod as a bit of a ...
- I've been looking for similar problems but everything seems to be for the PS3. My kids have the "buzz" games and at first I t...
- This tv is giving me a profound headache..story was: picture no sound. Ordered replacement board (the board to which the spea...
- Hi, After my first debacle with an iBook ( a work still in progress) I have bought another one and repaired it (yipee! am not...
- I know this is a bit off topic, however it is repair related. I have an iBook that I am trying to repair. The power connector...
- Have been given this to repair for a friends daughter. Took out batteries and discovered battery corrosion on one contact. Sc...
- Another day, another disaster. Husband bought this for me to fix for him. (says I hog the Mac..don't know why he thinks that)...
- Hello. Again. In my haste to remove a broken card/game reader (again)( & again because of a faulty eject on the replacement) ...
- fixing this for a friend but I can't find any information on what's on the motherboard and whether the LCD has the backlight ...
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- shop http://www.ifixit.com/iPad-Parts buy good Thanks
- Try holding home button and power button until apple appears then release buttons and let it reboot
- You need a whole new LCD/digitizer combo. Just check you didn't damage the motherboard connector too..
- The only answer for a torn cable is a new screen. Sorry
- Try taking the battery out for 30 minutes. Put back in and charge for an hour.
- iPhone 4 Teardown.. from looking at the teardown the 2 mics are 1) on the dock at the bottom, 2) attached to the proximity/light sensor at the top. take a look then go and google or ebay the part..ie proximity or dock.
- Having just had a similar problem I solved it by putting the old LCD back in, took new digitizer off, rebooted. Now I knew everything was ok...turned iPad off, slide LCD panel up a little to expose digitizer socket, put new digitizer in,turn on iPad. Next, turn off iPad, move digitizer out of the way and remove old LCD. Put new one in, put screens in place without adhesive and check it all works. Seems that contrary to every rule of turning off a device to work on it, if you do that the iPad won't recognize your lovely new screens. Somehow by leaving the iPad on ( but not powered on display) it will believe it still has the original screen on? No amount of restore etc got my iPad to work...kept getting error 3194??
- I know this is an old thread but sometimes it's a simple thing of changing lock button on upper right side of iPad to be " mute" . Go to settings, general and scroll down to lock button either lock rotation or mute. Select mute
- unlucky to have bricked the phone doing that...have you tried loading your original operating software/restor
ing to factory settings? You may have to delete all files for your phone from your pc and then reinstall software.
- this isn't an answer but a comment...yes and no, yes if you do it right, no if you don't.. you need to be able to restrict heat from reaching parts you don't want to desolder, so you need a nozzle the right size for the job and to make a way of protecting other components. The problem on these phones is that the components all press up against each other, there is very little room to manoeuvre or protect parts. If you are talking heating the entire board for one chip then no it isn't safe.
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MINISCULE amount of solder...
you're welcome shai, hope all the other repairs go so well
it should be ok.
"wipe" means with a cloth moistened in alcohol.
put your fingers at power button end of phone, resting on edge of glass/bezel you can use them as lever so when you pull on suction at other end you don't need to apply much pressure and the cables underneath aren't ripped off
take out gameboy slot too!