I recently replaced all four rubber CV boots on my 325i, repacked them with grease, and they seem to be holding up fine. Duri...

We have a general troubleshooting page to deal with liquid damage. It's tough to say what exactly is causing the issues with your keys but it could be either a problem in the keyboard connectors or corrosion/water scale in the keyboard itself.

It is a good thing to have in there. Basically, it reflects light from the backlight out toward the LCD and away from the inside of the iPod. Additionally, it'll give the display a uniform appearance when you look at it in direct sunlight. If that mylar isn't in there, you'll see some cutouts and screw holes on the metal midplane as the LCD and its backlight are pretty transparent when viewed in a bright enough light.

Do you have a first generation or second generation iPad? We have guides for both generations. Sadly, when you rip the digitizer cable you'll need to replace the entire front panel as the digitizer cables are nearly impossible to repair.

Nope, the iPhone 4 uses flash memory that is soldered to the logic board.

Yes, it'd be on step 21 of the hard drive replacement guide. The sentence about adding rubber cement in the introduction was added by a user on the site. Usually if you don't handle the thermal sensor or get it dirty, the old adhesive should be enough to hold it onto your new hard drive. Ideally you'd want to use some double-stick thermal tape to attach it, but i think the combination of the tape covering the sensor and some rubber cement should hold it on fine.

It would probably fit, but your logic board will not have a socket or controls to power and control the backlight.

The connections to your battery might be damaged/loose or your battery might be completely dead. I'd try taking the clamps off the battery (one at a time) and clean the battery terminals and clamps with a wire brush. The connection might be bad and not allowing current to flow through the battery. The only real way to test your battery is to hook up a load tester like this, or you can take it to a place like Sears auto center for them to hook it up to a testing machine. That'll let you know if you need a new battery or not.

As oldturkey said, it really depends on what kind of fluid is leaking. If it is motor oil, the rear main seal (large circular seal between the crankshaft and engine block) is probably leaking. If you have a manual transmission, it might be manual transmission oil (which usually smells like sulfur) coming from the transmission input shaft seal that seals between the splined transmission input shaft and the transmission housing. If you have an automatic transmission, it might be ATF coming from the torque converter or the input shaft seal on the transmission. ATF is red in color and feels more slippery than normal motor oil. Unfortunately to access all of those components, you must remove the transmission. Companies make "stop leak" type products that sometimes help to slow small leaks for both the engine and transmission.

To clarify a bit: in addition to one SATA port for the optical drive, there are two SATA ports for the hard drives - one for the platter hard drive and one for an SSD. Both have proprietary power connectors on the logic board, but they both use standard SATA data connectors. We haven't gotten around to testing it yet, but I've been interested in using a splitter to turn one of the SATA power cables into two. I think you'd have to modify the optical drive cable because the hard drive power cable reportedly sends temperature signals from a sensor on the HDD to the logic board instead of using an external sensor. I'm not sure if splitting that power cable would cause any problems with the fans ramping up or not. Since the optical drive uses an external temperature sensor, It seems that splitting that cable would be the safer option. The only problem is that the connector on the optical drive side of that cable is SATA power and data molded into one connector. My solution would be to tuck that connector behind th...

You're talking about the part replaced in this LCD lens guide, right? Repairing Canon EOS 5D Mark II LCD Lens If you hit the "Read More" button in the introduction, the author listed two places to buy it. He says: "I found two retailers, 1. USCAMERA in the states, who were most helpful but i couldn't get there website to accept payment via credit card, they have an ebay store http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/uscamera/ 2. Lehman in the UK. http://www.hlehmann.co.uk/ Again most helpful, they answered my many emails chasing the order, i was desperate to get my 5d back. I would stress that they are incredibly busy at the moment. If you want to communicate with them i suggest email through their website 'contact us' and ask for a call back. Very nice people to talk to."

Just stumbled on this from the front page of google news, nice work guys!

What do you mean? It is definitely there in the picture.

You're correct. Apple uses it to secure the SATA connector on the hard drive cable to its socket on the hard drive. It is not strictly necessary as the two connectors have such a secure fit when they're put together so we didn't bother to tell people to install it. I'll add a note to the guide about it to be a little more clear.

Yes, it does.

Sorry for not replying sooner. An SSD can be installed in either position. The screenshots in the last step of the guide show that there is no performance difference if you install the SSD in either the top or the bottom position. To minimize the amount of work necessary when adding an SSD to be used as your primary drive, we recommend installing the SSD like we did in this guide and leaving the stock platter drive in its original bottom position (closest to the antenna plate). After reassembly, boot the Mini into Lion Recovery and use disk utility to erase your SSD. Then install Lion on your SSD. After rebooting, go into system preferences>startup disk and choose your SSD as the startup disk. I've added this info to the last step of the guide, and again, I apologize for not giving the information sooner.

Nope, that third screw is actually just a post that the rubber grommet attached to the fan body slips over. Step 4 shows how the fan comes off of it. When you go to remove the fan, you simply remove the two screws closest to the antenna plate and then lift the fan off this post. The screw you are talking about is removed in Step 14 and does not need to be removed until this point.

No problemo. I apologize if I didn't make sense...I meant to say "we recommend at least sliding out the logic board....for enough clearance to get the hard drive out". It was a long day :)

The original hard drive is removed in step 17, and is reinstalled when you follow the instructions in reverse to reassemble the Mini. We recommend at least sliding out the hard drive (following all steps of this guide up until step 17) for enough clearance to get the hard drive out. It's a pretty tight fit.

We put a 60 GB platter HD with OSX on the second port and it was recognized right away in disk utility. I don't see why adding an SSD would be any different. Should work just fine.

It looks similar, but the geometry is different so it wouldn't work. The cable in that link has the board-side connector rotated 90 degrees from how the Mac mini cable has it, and the cable extends in the wrong direction on it. Sorry to burst your bubble.