I feel silly asking this question. I feel like this should be common knowledge. I was instructed by the plumber about six mon...

I was about to drive to work this morning, when I noticed that my odometer reading was totally discombobulated. I have no ide...

I recently managed to get the moped running properly, albeit for only a short time. Things were looking up: I replaced the sp...

I have an LED-backlit LCD panel on my MacBook Pro A1226. I was wondering if minimizing its brightness during the day will pro...

I purchased at least three different muffler tips over the course of my Accord ownership. Each time, I would cut the tip to s...

I have a problem that's been pestering me for quite a while. About three years ago I began to intermittently lose sound from ...

I have a set of Samsung SBH500 Bluetooth headphones that unfortunately have a snapped headphone band. The band is essentially...

I got some awesome tips on diagnosing my moped's stuck throttle cable problem. The solution seems to be to install a new thro...

I've had a pair of leather Skechers shoes for years. Over time, one of the shoe soles developed a quarter-sized hole through ...

I have a 1984 Suzuki FA50 moped that ran fine until about six months ago. One day I tried to start it, and the throttle got s...

We did the hard work and found out that yes, the screen is openable, and the SSD is replaceable, but opening the Surface Pro is a terrible endeavor. You have to use a heat gun and pry the glue "just right," otherwise you'll either not separate all the glue, or you'll come too close to the display cables and risk shearing them. Since we were operating blindly — nobody has opened one prior to us — we ended up shearing one of the display cables, so our Surface Pro is now a very solid looking coaster. But we sacrifice ourselves for the science, and that's how things go sometimes. (Don't worry, we'll find other good ways of using the device — our devices are never "gone for good.") You may be able to get away with reusing the existing glue, if you work in a relatively clean environment and don't get a bunch of dust/debris on it. There's gobs of it on the top, but not so much near the bottom, so the bottom area may have "re-sticking" issues. Alternatively, we recommend getting your hands on the strongest 3M double-...

I'm sorry, but you can't increase the Surface Pro's RAM. The chips are soldered directly to the motherboard. Check out step 14 of the Surface Pro teardown in order to see for yourself :) John is right — the SSD is replaceable, but opening the Surface Pro is terrible. Here is a shot of the actual SSD found in the Surface Pro: From the teardown: "The Micron RealSSD C400 packs 64 GB of storage capacity. It can read 500MB/s and write 95 MB/s — all in a tiny 1.8" form factor."

Don't worry guys, you won't have to take apart your Surface Pros in order to find out if the SSD is replaceable. We did the hard work and found out that yes, the SSD is replaceable, but opening the Surface Pro is terrible. Here is a shot of the actual SSD found in the Surface Pro: From the teardown: "The Micron RealSSD C400 packs 64 GB of storage capacity. It can read 500MB/s and write 95 MB/s — all in a tiny 1.8" form factor."

Remember that in this case, the "bottom" of the MacBook Pro with Retina Display is actually the keyboard/trackpad side. Injudicious application of heat -- whether through heat gun or hot plate -- could result in melting a few of the keyboard keys, or possibly damaging the trackpad. The battery is removable, it's just very, very hard to do. The biggest issue is with the trackpad cable that's being routed under the battery, as seen here. One slip of the spudger / ruler / whatever you use to dislodge the battery could shear that cable, resulting in having to replace the trackpad as well. The whole battery is held in place by a frame. You can dislodge the individual pieces partially, but you need to lift the whole enchilada out at the same time. Otherwise a.) at the very least you'll break the frame connecting them, or b.) you'll puncture one of the batteries and have a nasty, smelling, dangerous mess to clean up. I speak from personal experience. :)

As Jan mentioned, it's unlikely that the SSD connector in the "cheap" model will be any different. However, we have one of the base units coming in, so I can let you know for sure in a day or two.

I used to have a 500GB/4GB Hybrid drive in my Santa Rosa A1226 about a year ago. I replaced it with a stand-alone SSD and separate platter hard drive specifically for the reasons you're asking about. When the hybrid was installed, the platter drive portion would wind down to conserve power. It drove me nuts, because every time it spun back up, I'd get that whirly pinwheel. It just took a second for it to spin back up, but that second was such an annoyance that I couldn't live with the drive, and I returned it. Here's a good article on the whole issue. You can try updating the firmware on your drive to see if that will improve the situation. I don't think the drive will crash, but it's definitely not a good idea to have it continue turning on/off. By the way, I'm absolutely loving the SSD setup I currently have in my machine, which entails installing this Optical Bay SATA HD Enclosure along with a stand-alone SSD. These same parts should work in your A1260, and will prolong the usefulness of your machine as lo...

Insert your car's key into the ignition switch and turn clockwise until you hear sounds from the engine bay.

iFixit carries both the black and white versions of the iPhone 4 front panel. From the product description: "This part contains all the necessary components to replace the front display assembly. It is a complete part with the LCD and the glass fused together. It includes the speaker grill installed. This is an Apple OEM part, not a copy or imitation." Hope that helps!

Hi Jack, There's no shame in trying to see if Apple will take care of it for you. Chances are slim to none that it will work, but who knows -- they may take pity on your case. The replacement glass for the iPad is currently $150, and that still won't fix the dent on the body. You may want to consider selling your iPad to someone who may not necessarily care about the scratch'n'dent, and then use that money to get yourself another second-hand iPad that's in a better shape. I think it all really depends on how much money you stand to lose by selling it vs. investing time and money to fix a cosmetic scratch. I know you said that "this cannot be 'brushed off/live with it'," but trust me -- it gets easier over time. I dropped my Droid about six months ago with the same result: it started falling towards concrete, but I managed to kick it into a bush. At the end of the ordeal, I had a nice 1/4" scratch across the screen, but the phone was intact otherwise. I lambasted myself for days for dropping the Droid; but the...

I'll just add to Ol'Turkey's post, since what he said was completely right -- there could be hundreds of reasons why your Explorer has the Check Engine Light (CEL) on. In my mind, there's three ways you could go about investigating the problem: 1. Buy an engine code reader. I bought my reader back in 2003 for $50 off of Ebay and it works fine to this day. That first time my CEL turned on was because the gas cap was not tightened properly, and so it was a super-easy fix :). The readers are not complicated to use -- just plug it into your car's OBD II port (look up your Explorer's location online) and click the "Read" button. 2. Take your Explorer to Autozone for a free engine code read. I don't know if they will reset the CEL, but you can't beat the price. 3. Take your Explorer to a mechanic. They will be able to diagnose the problem and fix it as well. This is the priciest option, but is also the easiest. Personally, I like to know what's going on with my machine, so I'd rather diagnose the problem and tell t...

A definite maybe.

There's a clamp on top of the rubber cover that holds the drive (and rubber pieces) firmly in place — but the drive itself is not screwed into anything.

You asked, so we answered. Check out step 7.

Correct, correct, correct, correct, not sure (we just took it apart), ~2" diameter, not sure what "titchy" means, probably silent, seems about right since 60 mm = 2.36".

Generally speaking, I'd place my bets on the internal drive that's hooked up via (most likely) SATA. It should be significantly faster than an external USB 2.0 drive. But, that's just drive throughput, and you're more likely limited by the Wi-Fi connection, rather than the internal/external hard drive speed.

Also, either option is basically a "set it and forget it" kind of thing. You do the initial backup, it takes forever, and then the incremental updates happen here and there. Since everything happens over Wi-Fi (unless you want to hook up via CAT 6 Ethernet for the initial transfer), there's no big difference between having an internal drive vs. an external USB drive -- save for the extra devices absolutely ruining the look of your slick white tower of Wee-Feeness :)

We had this discussion last night. Apple's official Tech Specs page says USB 2, and the box says USB 2, so we're sticking with USB 2.0. Unless in Apple's world, "2" somehow translates to "3.0"...

The third is for the tiny status LED, and the fourth is for the reset switch that resides next to the power plug. Both cables disappear early on in the teardown since both components are attached to the white plastic case.

A 3.5" drive fits fine in the Extreme, and they're available in gigantor sizes. The real issue is connecting the drive to the Extreme, since there's no available connector for this purpose.

You have a low tolerance for fainting.

Because it's the future of Starbucks coffee tables!