- I recently acquired a 3GS with a smashed case, but after seeing the cases are both the same, I swapped the logic board and do...
- My PowerBook AL 17" high res also has colored lines. Is it the inverter or the video cable which is bad? It works okay when p...
- I'm having the same problem with my PowerBook Aluminum 17". I tried tapping on the top pf the LCD screen and it seems to help...
- Are vertical lines (dead pixels) in my LCD display caused by a bad CCFT tube or something within the LCD glass panes?
- I noticed in the "keynote" that Jobs came across the same problem I have with my Touch .. using the browser (Safari) Flash co...
- My Mac has been acting weird. It shows multiple lines on the display. Sometimes moving it or jiggling the screen makes it qui...
- I just got an iPhone 5 that had water sensors tripped. When I opened it up, there was oxidation (a whitish powder) found inside it and all around the edges where the LCD top fits in the body. I used a toothbrush and an Xacto knife blade to remove most of it, but do I need to remove the main board to see if there is more on it?'' If I remember my basic Chemistry, oxidation is caused by moisture affecting a "bi-metallic reaction" that causes oxidation. Is this the reason the iPhone 5 was discontinued? Steel reacting to aluminum caused by water being the catalyst?
- I tried to have a #3 connector assembly (which you CAN buy) replaced but it was an impossible job even for a good technician. You might try sliding a small non-conductive shim under the #3 cable to add upward pressure to the cable .. it might work. Worst case scenario .. just use the speakerphone.. somehow the sound carries through the phone and up to the earpiece. Hey.. it works!
- Attaching the #3 cable on either the 3g or 3gs is a tricky thing.. many times leading to no ear piece sound. One solution I heard (but still haven't had luck with ) is to readjust the cable several times in slightly different positions before clamping down the retainer clip. As you can see, the contact points on the #3 ribbon cable are very small and they need to line up just right with the connector pins to work. Replacing the whole proximity sensor cable is an option but it doesn't always solve this problem. I have two 3g's that I have to use in "speaker phone" mode to work, but the strange thing is, I can hear through the earpiece at the same time! If you can't get it to work (ear piece speaker) just do the speaker phone trick.
- Mikall.. you are right. It should be 616-0435, but iFixit shows 0431! Better correct that. My question is why does it matter? Some forums show that it also depends on the iOS version! What is the right battery for 3G and 3GS?
- I have had this problem with a CD with a stick-on label. Answer:stick your finger nail into the CD slot and pry the case up gently at the same time you hit the "eject" button or command- E. Works for me!
The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?
The original iPhone model had an aluminum case. The 3 and 3gs were plastic. The 4's went to a glass and aluminum frame. The 5 appears to me to be more steel than aluminum. The problem I saw with the 5 is a lack of seals like the 3's which meant oxidation will form around the edges (corrosion).
A friend spilled some Sangria on his iPhone 5c, and now the earpiece speaker doesn't work. I recommended swabbing it with a Q Tip and a sparse amount of Windex, but if that doesn't work I'm looking at replacing the earpiece. I do have a question on this though... could the spill have messed up the proximity sensor or the controlling chip for it? He is under warranty but I don't think Apple will replace it because it was a spill.
Okay, I replaced the Lightning dock, and it wasn't easy, but if you go slow and start with the headphone jack and the microphone first, then work your way to the Lightning dock, making SURE it's properly seated! then on to the speaker and power cables, it's not too bad. I did have a problem with the case closing properly. I think it was the Lightning dock or headphone jack that wasn't completely seated down. I readjusted it and tightened the screws but the LCD assembly was still not quite seated properly.
When I powered it up I got a message saying the USB device was drawing too much power and to disconnect it! I think the logic board is fried. Anybody have ideas on this? I plan to return it under my 30 day warranty if I can't get it working.
The removal of the rubber boot IS mentioned in step 31!
That's true... no need to remove the MLB. The cable slides out easily.