Guides I've Contributed To
- Same has happened here, nicely smashed front glass, replaced the whole frontal assembly just to be "quick and easy", alas to no avail, touch screen doesn't respond, tried with old/original unit, still doesn't work either. I fix a few iPhones/iPods a week and 3G (and 3GS) units are usually the simplest of them all, but this time it looks like it might well be an onboard controller fault :(
- The problem is quite common. It's the fault of one of the main NEC/TOKIN capacitors located directly beneath the CPU (on the other side of the board). The reason why it works on battery but not AC is because there's no significant ripple in the power when running from battery, but on AC there is a fair amount which causes unreliable behaviour. Replacing the capacitor is not a trivial task even for those who deal with surface mount replacements. Typically we just break off the old TOKIN capacitor and install a set of tantalum caps in its place.
- Try this solution... Press and hold the home button, then the up-volume button, then the sleep/power button (so all three buttons are now pressed and held) --- it takes a while, but the white screen will go away and then after another 10 seconds or so (still holding btw!) the apple logo will come up, release the buttons and then wait, it'll boot normally again in a minute or two. EDIT: Just tried it on my own 3GS here which decided to go into the WSoD - alas, doesn't seem to be working this time, not sure though if it's the buttons or not at fault. Update: If the home-up-sleep combo doesn't work ( as I encountered recently ), it might be worth letting the unit run flat for a few days and then plug it in and try the home-up-sleep combo again. I was surprised, I thought I was going to have to bin this 3GS but amazingly it came back to life for me. Not sure what the difference is, but perhaps during the total power-down phase the iPhone manages to go through some different stages in the firmware, as opposed to r...
Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;
1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.
Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.
Perhaps practice on some other things first.
I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.
Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.
The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.
Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.
It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.