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- Hi, hope someone can help! On one side, I have an iPhone 5 back-case containing only the lightning-connector-assembly. Everyt...
- Hi, You mainly need a pentalobe #2 for the first 2 screws, Phillips #0 or #00 for the guts, a pair of tweezers, a couple of plastic opening tools. All the above can be found in the iFixit Pro Tech Tool Kit.
- iFixit does sell the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly. And this assembly includes the 2 home button contact pins. This is the part that you should be replacing. You just can't see those pins on the picture because they are on the other "side" of one of the flat cables. One additional note: you can source the assembly from suppliers other than iFixit for a cheaper price (down to $10), however this is a critical spare part that may fail often if poorly made, also may adversely affect the battery, the logic board, the charger and the lightning cable. Consider this before buying a cheap connector.
- I had some experience with liquid spills: water, wine, screen cleaner, etc. In addition to all what was written above, I would add: - Go about it slowly. Don't generalize, due to the so many places liquids can seep into and the extensive list of reactions, shorts, and damage they can cause. - Some means that seem extreme can be used when nothing else works and you have nothing to loose. Just do it gently and don't force it. - If it's working at first, and starts "working less," then stops working, it usually is due to corrosion. - If a whole "unit" is not working instead of parts of that unit (example: some key vs. the whole keyboard, or 1 button vs. the whole trackpad), it can be useful to look at the gate e.g. connectors and sockets for those connectors. - Completely dead is usually easier to fix than part dead, speaking from the experience I've had. Have faith :) I'll illustrate with a few examples: - An unusual fix? I had a Vaio trackpad with coffee spilled in it, that wouldn't work. It was sandwiched bet...
- You are getting the "searching" sign with the SIM both inside and outside the phone? Look at Settings => General => About => Baseband and IMEI numbers. Are they there or missing? Are they complete? If something is missing you may have 2 issues: - Hardware baseband chip issue: I have the same issue and did not find a solution yet. Tried reflowing the baseband chip without success. - Software issue requiring a restore. However, if you restore your iPhone and the baseband chip is damaged, you may become stuck in restore mode. If you're willing to take that chance, at least back-up your data first.
- There are many things you have to be aware of: you must have proper gluing AND a perfect fit. - Most important is to avoid compressing the folded digitizer cable, which will damage it and may cause the digitizer to become non-responsive, or cause ghost-typing (works alone). - Clean the iPad (the aluminum side) very well with isopropyl alcohol (85%+) or goo-off to remove the old glue. Don't do so with the digitizer which is delicate and may be scratched or damaged. - Check that everything is working properly (lcd, WiFi, front and back camera, volume up/down, mute, power) before regluing the digitizer. And check that the LCD and inside of the digitizer are clean. Use a dry lens clothe to clean any smudges or fingerprints. - Get double-sided tape: http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Double-sided-Scrapbook-Length-Width/dp/B00DZXYGYU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&q...-1&keywords=tesa+double+tape - Apply the double tape to the aluminum frame (cut it to fit, of course). - When re-gluing the digitizer, first fit in place the right-side ...
- Hi, I would guess you did your repair, so this could be for other users having the same issue: The earpiece speaker and the proximity sensor are both connected through the same flat cable to the logic board. If they both stop working at the same time, I would first try to reseat the cables connecting the LCD-assembly to the logic board; especially if the iPhone has been tinkered with before and/or has been dropped. I have had iPhones 3GS' for repair, that were "visited" by other technicians before me, and for half of those the plastic tab holding in place flat cable #3 had been broken and removed. Hope this helps!
- I changed the broken digitizer of an iPad 2, and used what turned out to be a poor kind of adhesive to glue it back. 10 days later the digitizer became loose and I needed to re-glue it. So I disconnected the LCD and digitizer, and cleaned the old adhesive using rubbing alcohol. Before gluing the digitizer back, I tested the iPad and found that the LCD remained black. I plugged the iPad to the charger and heard the charging sound, so the iPad was working fine. I tested the LCD on a another iPad, and there it worked. So I tried rebooting the iPad by pressing HOME BUTTON + ON/OFF BUTTON at the same time for 10-15 seconds, but nothing happened. The iPad wouldn't restart/turn off (I could still hear the charging sound when I plug it in). So I shorted the 2 golden pins of the Home Button while pressing the ON/OFF Button for 10 seconds. This time the restart was successful, and the LCD came back to life. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DON'T SHORT ANYTHING ELSE AT THE SAME TIME!! Turns out the home button was not seated well eno...
- For a more "elegant" but a bit pricy connection, I can suggest the use of a MagSafe Travel adapter to connect the Mac to the power output, together with a "lighter" connection since the travel adapter can fit into something of the kind. Of course this will run the Mac but not charge it..
You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]
The power button is glued on the right side to a piece of foam. I found it easier to push the power button in without completely removing it (let it hinge on the foam/rubber), then slide the flat cable out with a pair of tweezers. Re-assembly should be easier and quicker this way.
The top/right standoff 2.7mm screw us made from aluminum. It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2.7mm standoffs. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place.
If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: since it is made from aluminum, it will not stick to the tip of the magnetized screwdriver or the magnetized mat.
It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.
When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.
First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.
Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.
There a small square black plastic "gasket" next to the 2 copper contact points. Be sure it is back in place before putting back the screws holding the earpiece speaker in place.
I love those statistics!!
Great info: interesting, educating, and very very helpful to understand what is at stake.
Also highlights an important issue: how we see ourselves vs. how others see us.
I would go about doing it this way:
- Define very precisely what "superior (or whatever good) customer service" is,
- Make sure everyone sticks with those well-defined parameters, enforce the system at all cost!
- Compare those parameters/beha
viors with what customers actually expect and continuously adjust them accordingly...