Guides I've Contributed To
- Yes, SSD's are the faster in Read/Write access but at a price. The amount of storage they have is less than HD's and are costly. And yes, SSD's are quieter than HD's. But most of the issue is dependent on what you are doing. Running heavy CPU/Graphics applications are big creators of heat which then causes the fans to fire up to full cooling which I suspect is your noise issue not the heat of the HD alone. As to which is the better direction going with a straight SSD Vs a SSHD? A SSHD gives you a more balanced solution by combining both the SSD and a HD into a single hybrid drive. So you gain the speed of the SSD and the storage space of the HD. At one point we took the optical drives out of our laptops so we could add in a second drive (SSD) to gain the the speed of the SSDs and still have the storage space a HD offers. Now with SSHD's we get it in one device. All our non-retina Mac Book Pros have since been upgraded to SSHD units.
- Sorry, no it won't work here. The issue is the Samsung MZ-DPC2560/0A2 unit currently in your MacBook Pro retina late '12 is not a PCIe interfaced SSD it's a custom mSATA device. Your 27" iMac late '13 has a M.2 PCIe interface. The only problem here is no one has released an upgrade part yet. Check out OWC as well as the other Mac upgrade sources to see when they have a solution. The other alternative is to go to an Apple authorized service center to order the part from Apple for you.
- Is this what you are looking for? Thunderbolt Display (LG Display LM270WQ1)
- At this point I think you'll need to take a good look at the main logic board for corrosion damage. Disconnect the battery and if needed remove the logic board fully as there is more circuitry on the other side. Don't forget to practice good ESD protection as static can kill your exposed board. Use a solution of distilled water and baking soda (10 to 1). Let the solution settle or filter it though a coffee filter cone as you don't want the solids. Using cotton swabs (Q-Tips) wipe the areas down and if its stubborn use a toothbrush to scrub lightly (you don't want to pop off any small components brushing to hard). Once you clean off the areas go over the spots again this time with straight distilled water. Then again with good quality of Isopropyl alcohol (85% or better). The distilled water don't have anything in it so it will dry cleanly Vs tap or spring water. The Isopropyl alcohol is to act as a dryer pulling out any remaining water thats under the components. In any case you still want to let the circuit ...
- Both the HD & SSD use standard SATA interfaces, so your not limited in your choices. But before you do anything make sure you have updated the systems firmware so you can get SATA III (6.0 Gb/s) services. Without it you only have SATA II (3.0 Gb/s). Follow this Apple TN: EFI & SMC firmware updates for Intel-based Macs. The issue with HD's thermal sensor used in some of the models (which is the reason people have had issues with the fan). This model doesn't use the built-in sensor services of the drive. The bottom line here is you shouldn't have any problems with the HD swap out. Yes, the fan will kick in when you are running the HD hard. As to needing a dual drive kit. As your system has all of the needed pieces in place for the SSD (the Apple supplied SSD is a 2.5" unit) you won't need it. But, the current SSD's location is underneath the logic board (wedged against the mid-plane air dam). So you'll need to completely remove the logic board to get to it. If you decide you want to move it over to the optical ...
- Uncleho - Are you all set here? If this answer answered your question please remember to mark it accepted.
- The ports are soldered onto the main logic board so you can't replace them. Are the cords slipping out or are they firmly connected? Is a given socket having problems? If they are firmly connected and one socket has more of an issue, then you maybe able to fix this by tagging the solder joints (after pulling the logic board out). It's possible you just have a cold joint. This is still a bit of work and is not something I recommend for a first timer to do. If you are loosing connection without touching the cord or the device then you may have a power issue via the USB port. Start by getting a powered USB hub and then connect it to your system with the USB devices connected via the powered hub. Is this working better? If so you may need to check the USB fuse links on the logic board as they maybe blown. These are small SMT components and do require a bit of skill to test & replace. See if you have an electronics repair person nearby who has the skills set and the needed SMT fuse link part (Apple authorized serv...
- Lets check the battery out here, download this little gem: coconutBattery. Lets see what it tells us. Post a snapshot here so we can see whats up too. Click on the right most edit ribbon icon (blue square) when you post it into the answer field.
- Sorry to say its a bit of work to take the old cable out to replace it as you need to pull the logic board out to get to it. Follow this guide on the needed process iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 & 2210 Logic Board Replacement while this is a different model than what you have its very similar.
- A bad SATA cable can cause heavy re-tries which causes any read/write access to be very slow. If you have any drive diagnostics you could check the re-try rate or CRC errors.
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<<Add the following>>
Note: Here's a method to hack the OS-X configuration file for the SuperDrive to be used on the older iMac, MacBook, or MacBook Pro systems that the drive normally won't work with. Use with caution!
open the com.apple.Boot.
plist file in a text editor or in terminal use nano you will see a key <key>Kernel Flags</key>
under it add the following line
reboot your Mac
Can you verify the data rate of the I/O is it SATA-3?
Step 15 - could be Braille U - B - A or the contractions Us - But - A
From the Apple specs sheet neither this new MacBook Pro or the new MacBook Air have digital outputs. Just looking at the connector in the disassembly photos it appears to be true - Sorry
R4F2113 is a Renesas 16-Bit Single-Chip Microcomputer H8S Family / H8S/2100 Series