Guides I've Contributed To
- While I haven't done this my self (leaving it out), I can't see any problems doing it. I should point out the slight weight difference is a few ounces so I wouldn't do it with the idea I was lowering the weight. Frankly, I find an optical drive too useful to take it out unless I gain something with its replacement (putting in an SSD), thats what we use to do. Today I would just swap out the HD for a SSHD (hybrid drive) as its more cost effective Vs a dual drive setup. Lastly, without the optical drive being in place you will likely loose the mounting screws for the 2nd HD/SSD frame. So for that reason I would put it back as getting the correct replacement screws will be difficult later.
- The IFIXIT Store offers the needed tools to open your system (pentalobe screws). Sadly the RAM is not upgradable in this model, but the SSD is. You'll need to checkout Other World Computing for the the unit.
- Sorry to say you will need a Laptop with mini-PCI express slot (either half or full size) and the drivers to support the OS you have on the system. This board will not physically fit any of the Apple TV units, nor does the units have the needed software to support it.
- First thing I would do is download a good fan & temperature monitoring app to see what is happening. I like this one Temperature Gauge Pro, others will work as well. It should help isolating out what is getting hot here. I would also monitor was processes are running and what load they are putting on your system Check out Activity Monitor in your Applications Utilities folder. Its' possible you have a stuck process or infection running on your system. While your system is on the newer side its possible the thermal paste on the CPU chip is not doing what it needs to do. Follow this IFIXIT guide to get to the heat sink MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Logic Board Replacement. Make sure to use a good quality paste. Here's a guide on how to clean the parts and apply the new paste Technique: Applying Thermal Paste.
- You likely need to go into your system deeper to get the rest of the wine removed. This is a big job. as you will need to get down to the upper case to gain access to the other side of the switch. Even still you may end up needing to replace the upper case. Follow this IFIXIT guide MacBook Air 11" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement.
- Sounds like someone by-passed the switch shorting it out. The circuit was not designed to be hard wired that way. Sadly the power switch is part of the upper case assembly so you will either need to take it apart to try to clean it (if something spilled in to it) or replace the upper case assembly which is a big job. As you didn't tell us which model you have here's the MacBook air 11" as reference on the amount of work MacBook Air 11" Mid 2011 Upper Case Replacement
- Depending on your model you should have two PC-Card like expansion slots for an AirPort Extreme (802.11g) card as well as a Bluetooth 1.1 card. Sadly, you can't use anything newer. I would encourage you to review the EveryMac listing on what your system can and can't do. This series of system uses a PowerPC processor as such can't run the latest version of OS or software which are designed for the newer Intel models. This case is sought by many modler's to create Windows PC or Hackintosh systems.
- Lets see if we can get the facts straight here: Apple has had a temperature sensor on their Hard Drives for quite some time. Over the course of the years Apple has migrated this sensor from a stuck on unit on the drive, to one that is based within the drive its self. The Mid '11 models are the first models that used the internal temperature sensor. Apple contracted the HD manufactures to use special firmware on their drives so this sensor was accessed by the systems heat management services which controls the speed and running of many different fans within the system. So what happened here is many people encountered issues when the fans would ramp up to full speed as the replacement hard drive people had used did not have the needed sensor and/or firmware to communicate to the heat management services so the system went into fail mode putting all of the fans into high. Of course this was not good as the fans were not designed to stay at this high RPM for long nor was it pleasant to hear. Some people tried a s...
- Try resetting the SMC to see if that helps. If not it sounds like you got spillage into the drive and will need to replace the drive.
- The systems firmware & OS on your system does not support this newer part. While it does appear to work your system can't gain the full benefit of the AC standard for many different reasons, sorry to be a downer here. Even most of the newer systems are not able to either! I would strongly recommend you do some reading as many people have heard the headlines of what the new standard could offer without looking a little deeper on what the current products really offer. While I do think getting a new system with the AC part makes sense. I don't think upgrading your current N part is worth it at this time (any system).
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Note: Here's a method to hack the OS-X configuration file for the SuperDrive to be used on the older iMac, MacBook, or MacBook Pro systems that the drive normally won't work with. Use with caution!
open the com.apple.Boot.
plist file in a text editor or in terminal use nano you will see a key <key>Kernel Flags</key>
under it add the following line
reboot your Mac
Can you verify the data rate of the I/O is it SATA-3?
Step 15 - could be Braille U - B - A or the contractions Us - But - A
From the Apple specs sheet neither this new MacBook Pro or the new MacBook Air have digital outputs. Just looking at the connector in the disassembly photos it appears to be true - Sorry
R4F2113 is a Renesas 16-Bit Single-Chip Microcomputer H8S Family / H8S/2100 Series