What is the full model #? The M45 wasn't supported very well with service/repair manuals from gateway. If you google "take apart toshiba m45" you'll find guides but nothing describing how to replace the battery. Best way to do it is look inside, see if it is the type that has the cmos battery soldered onto the board. If that's the case, I wouldn't attempt replacing it unless you or someone you knows is a pro at soldering, etc. If not, it should be a relatively painless procedure to replace it. It's either a battery like you described, or one that's plugged into the board itself.

It could be several possibilities, but based on your description I can't be sure. Was it dropped or did you spill anything on it? Is it Hot? Did you buy it brand new or used? How old is it? What were you doing right before it shut down? Have you upgraded anything (ram/hard drive, etc)? Any recent (however irrelevant) repairs done? Anything loose (like the jack where you plug in the power plug)? If you take the battery out and plug it in does it still not work? How about with the battery in and the power plug out? It could be the system board, the lcd screen, the inverter (if it has one separate from the board) or the power jack itself. Being unresponsive to keyboard (caps lock light not on, etc) it could be the board or the power jack.

Check your power savings settings in windows and ensure that it's actually charging to full capacity. You can select how much you charge your battery... Otherwise, without any further information (like how old the unit is, etc) you might just need to replace the battery.

I've scoured google for the past half hour and your best bet might be to purchase a dongle as I cannot find exactly what you'd need to install a bluetooth board. Unfortunately, gateway doesn't always provide free service manuals for their laptops. However, if you could find a service manual, you'd be well on your way. Only possible alternative is to email/call/contact gateway directly and see if they sell them or have available downloads.

I would definitely go back and re-do the repair and double check that your CMOS battery is intact and working, as well as all other cables, etc. I've done repairs on laptops, missed one single cable, and had the same thing happen. The only way to fix this is start from scratch and re-do the repair step by step ensuring all cables / screws / etc are correctly installed. Worst case, you may have shorted something out (inverter?) when you turned it on which is causing it to stay off now. Let me know how you make out!

You need to install the windows operating system booting from an external CD rom drive. Acer should sell these CD's online on their website. You should be able to find external CD Rom drives for less than $30 almost anywhere.

I have had this on older SLR lenses. It's dust or water trapped between the lens and the inside of the camera from humidity, etc. Only way to fix that is to carefully clean it with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol from the inside. There are guides to taking apart the camera on this site already so that should get you started. . . If you have more than one lens, and it's a sealed unit, you might be out of luck.

You know, I would probably ignore the two black outer rings and only go the inner ones. The first looks brown to me, the last one looks white, but it's hard to tell from the image what the two middle ones are. I'll bet that's your ohm rating right there. Also, look on the circuit board for another resistor that looks to have the same colors on it. Sometimes resistors come in pairs or groupings that are all the same ohm ratings.

I concur that the replacement part might not be correct but there's really no way to tell. However, (I swear I feel like a broken record) if the processor is getting too hot then regreasing it may solve this issue and it only costs $10 for thermal grease. If a new power supply and thermal grease don't resolve the problem, the power overload may have damaged the system board and that would have to be replaced.

You do have a valid point. However, I've had to take out a trusty magnifying glass to see for sure, but it doesn't take much to sever a board connection. Could be a hairline fracture. Could be damaged underneath. Point is that if you have video through an external source, and you replaced the lcd (assuming with a brand new working one), it has to be between the lcd cable connection point and the on-board video somewhere. The most likeliest area would be at the point of impact. Good thing the power port is still working! Whew! What luck!