- If im not mistaken those are torx bit bolts and im pretty sure that they are t45's. Should be the same as all other cars from there but for some reason they just threw in that awkward size bolts
- To be it sounds like the coil in your starter relay is going bad. As long as your battery has correct voltage I would try jumpering your relay with a wire to see if thats the issue. It should be 4 prongs on your relay two for the coil and two for the load just jumper the two for the load and see if your motor kicks over and if it does you just need a new relay which is pretty cheap! Good luck!
- What it sounds like to me is you have a vacuum leak. Idle bogging under load is a pretty common sign of a vac leak. Easy way to test for a vac leak without any gauges is to spray break parts cleaner or carb cleaner all over the motor while its running and when your idle jumps thats the area where your vac leak is at. If that doesn't work I would clean the sensor of your afm with afm cleaner NOT brake parts cleaner! Start with those two things and im 99% positive you will find your culprit and fix it! Will
- An easy way to save on space on samsungs are to; one get a memory card and two download this fancy app called app 2 sd. Its an app that saves all your apps to your sd card rather than your internal memory and frees up spaces. That should solve your problems and the app is pretty user friendly!
- What this sounds like to me is your cooling fan might be unplugged. Check to see if your cooling fans work by jumpering your relay to see it they kick on, if not your fans are probably bad. If your fans do work but they just wont kick on check your temperature sensor for your relay and/or relay itself. If your fans are working correctly but it is still over heating the easy culprit is your thermostat. If you just follow your lower radiator hose to the block its two little 8mm bolts and replace that puppy and that should do the trick.
- Those are the marvelous "quick disconnect" lines if I'm not mistaken. There should be a little plastic cover over it and you pull that off and there is a little C shaped clip that goes over the fitting and retains it in the tranny. All you have to do is get a generally sharp point pick and pry up on one side and then just grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers. I just did one of these on a suburban and I hate them, just make sure to clean it off well so you can get your pick under it easily. Best of luck!
- What it sounds like to me is a short from your brake switch to your horn. What I have seen happen is your wiring loom will drop onto your steering column and rub a hole in it and complete the circuit. What is happening is your brake switch hot wire is contacting your horn wire after the "switch" aka your horn button and completing the circuit unwanted. what i would do is remove the horn fuze and if your horn still is going off this is good! All you have to do now is unplug your horn and get a test night and test at all the connectors to see where you get unwanted power and doing that you find where your short is! One thing is do not poke the wires! that causes corrosion! check at connectors and dont get frustrated. Electrical problems are hard to find but simple to fix. Mechanical problems are easy to find and hard to fix :) anything else?
- It might also be your ignition relay. Usually it isn't smart to just throw parts at a car but after looking at all the parts you already replaced a ignition switch makes quite a bit of sense to me.
- When I was looking at prices it was about 650 for the I7 13in motherboard and just a couple hours of your time. I just did this a week ago and it wasn't too difficult either. Tools around 30-50 depending if you buy the whole screwdriver kit or individual ones. You need a T6 torx bit a tri wing driver and also i just bought a small electronics screwdriver kit at my local radioshack for 10$ that included 00 0 ect phillips and flathead screw drivers. With those bits and some thermal paste and nail polish remover you can do it all in about 2 or 3 hours
- I actually dealt with this last week at my shop. First thing I would check would be the fuse for it. The only way to check this also is with a Scan tool of some sort. I used a solous pro and how you check it is it flashes slowly the first part of the numerical code then the second quick flash is the second number of the code. So what I would do is see what code it is throwing and go from there. Im guessing its a non functional code because this is a common problem and I had to replace the whole srs unit in the 2000 accord I just worked on and it was an EX modle by the way.
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