Guides I've Contributed To
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- This PowerBook G4 12" does not have a factory installed Airport Extreme card so I purchased one. I know it is the correct ver...
- Hi, my MacBook Pro 2009 15" just went out of battery power. When I plugged in the power adapter it lights green but it does n...
- A bottle of pop had a leakage in my bag where my MacBook Pro also was. So I dried it but it started behaving strange. Suddenl...
- Hi, my iPhone 2g, 16GB has worked fine for years but suddenly I am not able to connect with wifi. I changed the battery and i...
- After I changed the screen on my iPad 2 Wifi/3G it worked fine. Then it starts jumping back to home all the time like I am pr...
- My MBP is a 2.4Ghz. The keyboard just suddenly does not light up and when I press the keyboard backlight keys I get up a symb...
- Hi, I have successfully replaced several Touch 4th gen. screen assemblies but there is something I am still wondering about. ...
- This is a 17" MBP A1212 2.44Mhz. There is no startup sound. Nothing happens when I press the power button. The MBP charges th...
- I was unlucky to spil water on the screen (not on the keyboard). I could see the water drops out of the bottom of the screen....
- I have an ipod 64GB 4th gen. with cracked screen. It worked fine. Now I have replaced the digitizer/lcd and put it back toget...
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- This happened to me when replacing the battery on a MacBook A1181. The battery was new, was charging fine but it says "Replace battery". I did a restart and reset parameter and reset SMC. I did a couple of complete drain/charge of the battery. No more error messages. I trust Coconut Battery more than OSX :-) http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
- You should first check if the hard drive is bad. I know you wrote it was new! Do you have another hard drive you can test first? Usually is not the hard drive cable. I always use a cable like this so I can test the drive as an external unit on a Mac that is working. Not saying it could also be the hard drive cable but confirm the disk is ok first.
- The small piece of rubber goes on top of the edge of the logic board, to the left of the small bracket john answered about. It is a spacer that holds the top cables aligned.
- I thought the A1370 was the 11" and A1369 the 13"? Anyway the SSD drive uses a mini sata connector. http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...-air/macbook-air-faq/macbook-air-late-2010-how-to-replace-upgrade-storage-ssd-hard-drive.html If you want to connect the drive externally you could use something like this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/SSDAP... Or else you could just google for "mini sata adapter" and gives you a lot of options.
- Sorry but you cannot upgrade just the processor since it is soldered to the logic board. What you can do is to change the logic board to a faster one. I.ex. you have a A1278 late 2011 and all the logic boards share the same connectors and will fit. Apple has named the unibody pro 13" for model A1278 through several upgrades. This means technically all boards from this model will fit. But they often change the speaker assembly or cable position for the iSight or bluetooth connector so you would have to mess with those parts too if you i.ex. try to install a 2009 logic board in a 2011 A1278. If you got hold of a 2.8Ghz i7 logic board in the same production cycle (late 2011) it would fit. I did that several times. I got a 2010 2.4ghz i5 MBP A1286 and bought a used 2.66ghz i7 board that is running fine, everything fits fine.
- The power supply on these models often fail so if you don't see any light on startup it seems you may have a faulty power supply. It is possible to change. What is the model number of the iMac? Is it A1200? 24"?
- What happens if you start the machine with the option key pressed? Do you get an option to choose the recovery partition?
- Many good feedbacks but his problem is a white screen and that usually has nothing to do with the digitzer but with the LCD. So resetting in any ways will help. If not there is no simple solution to this. I have had success with unplugging the LCD connector, spraying contact spray on the connector and reseating the connector.
- I had success now replacing my A1286 15", 2.4Ghz i5 with a 2.66Ghz i7. All the parts fit fine. But like mentioned here there is a difference from 2010 to 2011. The lowercase is the same but the let speaker and the plastic bracket with the cables (bluetooth,airp
ort etc.) are different. Still I had no problem getting the 2011 Quad-Core i7 logic board to fit and start up in my original 2.4ghz, i5, 2010.
- I would not care to put that part back as in my opinion the new screen fits better without it. Just use enough adhesive and make sure everything is plane and the screen will sit perfectly. Read our discussion about this here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811... ~asle
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Make sure the digitizer cable is folded in and doe not prevent the screen from sitting down. Also do not move the metal bracket near the camera to the new screen. Check for old broken glass parts along the edges. Also check that the speaker at the bottom has not moved up. It must go to the bottom of the case and not bulge up.
This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...
I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.
Take a look at the post http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...
That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.
Hi, take a look at my post here to make sure you have moved over old parts from the broken screen assembly because these are not included when you buy a new part:
The antenna cable will almost always stick to the digitzer and often the glass is broken there. You can use a knife to pick out broken glass around the edges elsewhere but use ONLY PLASTIC tool to separate the antenna cable from the old digitzer. This cable is very thin and a metal tool can easily cut the cable which you cannot then repair but must buy a replacement.
Here is where you take it easy. Two things can be broken here.
-Use time to carefully separate the bottom left part of the midplane. It sticks to the speaker which you tear the speaker leads if you are to hasty to lift it up. And remember the mid plane must not be bended up here since it needs to be 100% aligned so the new digitizer does not bulge here when in place.
- The second picture. The black visible adhesive sticks to the volume cable. Use time to carefully separate the mid plane here so the cable is not ripped when you lift up the midplane. Pry a plastic tool like the picture or/and a spudger slowly in until you see/feel the midplane loosening. A broken volume cable is no fun.
At this step is when you should test that the touch and LCD are working before you assemble back the parts. Be very careful when you plug in the cable for the LCD before you assemble the iPod. I have several times bent a pin on the contact on the motherboard. This could make the display white.
If you see a bent pin on the LCD contact on the logic board you must carefully bend it back with a needle. If you break a pin you are lost and you need a new contact. And finding someone who is skilled to solder it!
So do not use any force to get the LCD cable into the contact. Gently! Now if the screen still is white and you are sure the contact is not damaged, do like @mcbohdo and do a total reset of the iPod.
Take a look at the small spacer just below the "4" connector. Some dock connectors out there do not have the small spacer. I experienced a couple of times that the (4) cable had popped out of the connector after using the phone for some days. The cable is a little stiff. The small spacer helps press down the cable onto the connector so it doesn't jump out.
Remember to move the metal latch at the top of the screen to the replacement screen. I had to use this to keep it in place or else the screen bulges at the top. Also there is no notice about adhesive but I bought new adhesive to keep the new screen attached.
This iPod is one piece of fragile electronics. I agree everything about the 4th gen. iPod Touch is extremely difficult!