Guides I've Contributed To
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- I am setting up again PhoneAmego from my mac to my iPhone 4S to dial via bluetooth. It has worked before. I tried to pair my ...
- This PowerBook G4 12" does not have a factory installed Airport Extreme card so I purchased one. I know it is the correct ver...
- Hi, my MacBook Pro 2009 15" just went out of battery power. When I plugged in the power adapter it lights green but it does n...
- A bottle of pop had a leakage in my bag where my MacBook Pro also was. So I dried it but it started behaving strange. Suddenl...
- Hi, my iPhone 2g, 16GB has worked fine for years but suddenly I am not able to connect with wifi. I changed the battery and i...
- After I changed the screen on my iPad 2 Wifi/3G it worked fine. Then it starts jumping back to home all the time like I am pr...
- My MBP is a 2.4Ghz. The keyboard just suddenly does not light up and when I press the keyboard backlight keys I get up a symb...
- Hi, I have successfully replaced several Touch 4th gen. screen assemblies but there is something I am still wondering about. ...
- This is a 17" MBP A1212 2.44Mhz. There is no startup sound. Nothing happens when I press the power button. The MBP charges th...
- I was unlucky to spil water on the screen (not on the keyboard). I could see the water drops out of the bottom of the screen....
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- It sounds like if both the input and output device is gone from the sound panel on OS X it must be a hardware failure. OS X can not communicate with the device even if it finds it. The chips are on the logic board so it sounds like you need a logi board repair. Do you see a light inside the headphone jack? Not sure it would help since the digital output can hang sometimes and needs to be reset. But if OS X does not list in and output devices it can not communicate with them and it seems to be a hardware failure.
- I have done numerous logic board replacements. I think the $900 + tax price is pretty expensive. I guess that is for a replacement. I have found a very good repair service in China. I am amazed at what they have accomplished with my water damaged MacBooks. I don't think they are over $250 and I have never had problems with these Macs after the repair. I can give you my contact if you are interested. I would go far to repair this machine. It is quadcore, SATA6, fast machine. If I was close to you I would buy it :-)
- The models from 2009-2011 all have model numbers A1297 so you can use any display for A1297. They upgraded the resolution in 2009 to 1920X1200. All models MBP 17": http://www.everymac.com/ultimate-mac-lookup/?search_keywords=A1297 The model before that was A1229. You could also use a matte display. Not easy to find on Ebay but I have seen some. You would also have to get the bezel.
- The cable has both power and volume controls to the power button will not work if you rip the cable.
- This happened to me when replacing the battery on a MacBook A1181. The battery was new, was charging fine but it says "Replace battery". I did a restart and reset parameter and reset SMC. I did a couple of complete drain/charge of the battery. No more error messages. I trust Coconut Battery more than OSX :-) http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
- You should first check if the hard drive is bad. I know you wrote it was new! Do you have another hard drive you can test first? Usually is not the hard drive cable. I always use a cable like this so I can test the drive as an external unit on a Mac that is working. Not saying it could also be the hard drive cable but confirm the disk is ok first.
- The small piece of rubber goes on top of the edge of the logic board, to the left of the small bracket john answered about. It is a spacer that holds the top cables aligned.
- I thought the A1370 was the 11" and A1369 the 13"? Anyway the SSD drive uses a mini sata connector. http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...-air/macbook-air-faq/macbook-air-late-2010-how-to-replace-upgrade-storage-ssd-hard-drive.html If you want to connect the drive externally you could use something like this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/SSDAP... Or else you could just google for "mini sata adapter" and gives you a lot of options.
- Sorry but you cannot upgrade just the processor since it is soldered to the logic board. What you can do is to change the logic board to a faster one. I.ex. you have a A1278 late 2011 and all the logic boards share the same connectors and will fit. Apple has named the unibody pro 13" for model A1278 through several upgrades. This means technically all boards from this model will fit. But they often change the speaker assembly or cable position for the iSight or bluetooth connector so you would have to mess with those parts too if you i.ex. try to install a 2009 logic board in a 2011 A1278. If you got hold of a 2.8Ghz i7 logic board in the same production cycle (late 2011) it would fit. I did that several times. I got a 2010 2.4ghz i5 MBP A1286 and bought a used 2.66ghz i7 board that is running fine, everything fits fine.
- The power supply on these models often fail so if you don't see any light on startup it seems you may have a faulty power supply. It is possible to change. What is the model number of the iMac? Is it A1200? 24"?
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Pressing hard down on any screen will give pressure points but this sounds like a bad part. If it seems flush to the frame it should not be easy to get the white pressure points. I would suggest replacing the screen/glass.
So you have checked there are no glass pieces left on the frame. The problem getting the screen flush in the frame is mostly 2 things. 1 - the digitizer ribbon cable is not folded correctly under the top. 2 - the speaker is raised and need to be pushed down. I would also check that if you moved the metal part around the camera from the old screen, this could be bent. I usually leave that piece behind even if I agree that the top right corner then is a bit vulnerable to pressure. I have had no issues with that.
The copper tape is mainly for heat dispersion. Without the copper tape it should work anyway but I would just lift up and move one part of the tape so that it is in contact with the other part when you put it together.
Maybe the rear camera connection got loose when you lifted up the logic board in top to replace the digitizer. I would open it again and check the connection to the rear camera. Hope you fix it!
No, not really. It has a function to spread and remove heat so your iPod could get hotter if it is not in place. If you have torn it. Just lift it up and put it together so it overlaps.
The copper is important for heat dispensing. It has nothing to do with grounding or signal. In worst case if it is torn the Touch could get hotter but should work. If it is torn I usually just lift up one part and move it so it is in contact with the other copper part.
Make sure the digitizer cable is folded in and doe not prevent the screen from sitting down. Also do not move the metal bracket near the camera to the new screen. Check for old broken glass parts along the edges. Also check that the speaker at the bottom has not moved up. It must go to the bottom of the case and not bulge up.
This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...
I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.
Take a look at the post http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...
That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.
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