Well, unfortunately these parts have still not surfaced, to make any repair by replacing the connector possible. I've only been able to rob two myself, from totally dead EVO's to fix mine. The only things, at this point I can suggest, is to clean the cable and connector with a good contact cleaner, and, re-seating the cable. Then wedging something like a piece of nylon cable tie, over the cable to force it downward to maintain contact with the connector. It's a temporary fix at best, and very unstable.

Replacement Screens are available on eBay, and, other phone repair retailers. Actual part numbers are a hard thing to ask, or, nail down, to be sure. As HTC's not giving out much actual information on the inner workings of their products, and not likely to. Most people are using this method to select the correct replacement LCD panel. There are two different LCD's available from vendors, One uses a Wide Flex cable, the other uses a Narrow Flex cable. Display wise they are the same size and deliver about the same picture quality. OK, so here we go, the Wide Flex cable is often listed as 2WCA and it's size is nearly the same size, as the digitizer Flex cable, located just above the LCD cables header in the phone. The Narrow 2V6A, is less than half the size of the digitizer cable. The only other way to find the actual numbers, is to disassemble the phone, then removing first, the digitizer from the front of the phone, and next remove the LCD it's self, and read the back of it. While in place these numbers are ge...

Keep in mind, if the unit is in warranter, or, you eligible for replacement, that should be you first option to consider. The first thing I would try is, cleaning and re-seating, the digitizer pads flex cable contacts, with an ink eraser. Light scrub off any oxidation from the cables gold leads, not rubbing so hard, as to remove the gold from the conector. Than re-seat the cable in the header, and re-lock the header. Also, recheck that this header locks properly and to ensure it is not broken. When it's in broken condition, it can no longer push the cable up, to make proper contact inside the header. I have managed to trick the connector, by pushing a piece of nylon cable tie under the cable, restoring at least partial function to the digitizer pad. But understand there are still other issues that can effect the digitizers response to user input, including the control interface chip on the logic board. I'm looking for the part number, to cross reference, these header connectors now, for 2 units with similar i...

Of course if it's in warranty, or, your eligible for exchange, this should your first choice option. No Backlight, Video Present Check and re-seat The "LCD Flex cable connection", making sure there is no corrosion on the leads (a "light" rub with an ink eraser {not sand paper!} can remove most oxidation). Also examine the header on the board it's self, if the "lock down" tab is broke, it's not able to push the flex cable up onto the headers pins, to make proper proper connection, inside the header (you can try, inserting a piece of nylon cable tie, in front of the cable entry point, to raise it up, to the top of the connector). Still, the most likely cause for "No Back Light" is one of the serial string LCD that provide the light is open, or the 24 volt source is not present. neither of these are really checkable, or repairable, so replacement is in order. Last resort is to Swap the Logic Board into a "known Good phone" of the same model, to see if the symptom remains, or is corrected. If corrected, replace t...

If you mean by fix your switch. It can be replaced. But, without a parts number to reference, locating a replacement part is very harder to find. The only source I've found to locate a used part so far is, the "HTC PB00100 (Verizon) ERIS", which uses the same exact switch, for it's volume up/down function, and, can sometime be obtained fairly cheep on eBay, as junk. I'm sure Digikey carries something, if not an exact replacement, but, without a part number, is a fishing trip, without bate. The switch itself, is a "very tiny" plastic, 4 lead spst, push to activate, side mount, about the width of a T-15 torx head tool. Very subject to heat damage. The actual replacement requires SMA soldering skills (re-flow soldering technique), a good eye (a large magnification lens helps), and steady handed nerves. The Logic board pad area, also needs to be "reconditioned" to accept regular solder, prior to installation (I've no idea what the OEM used as solder, but, it's hard to melt and re-solder anything to is almost impo...