This BlackBook 2,1 had some cranberry juice spilled on it (of course the owner said "not very much", that's what they always ...

Got a rush job here; dead MacBook Pro, need to remove HD to recover data for use in another machine. Don't have the special 5...

Hi all I have a PB here with a P key not working. I've replaced the scissor mechanism but the problem is that the springy rub...

Another carcass from a client. This 2GHz Dual Processor G5 got progressively worse about starting up; sometimes it would come...

I inherited a Maxtor Shared Storage II NAS. After sitting unused for some months, it now won't work; the drive makes a clicki...

mattapoisett, Mactracker says that MBP can take 8gb. For Aperture and Parallels, I would fer sure max it out.

i would recommend to go with 4 GB as recommended from Apple, I installed 8 GB and didn't noticed significant difference. Whether or not more RAM will benefit you depends completely on your usage. I have my Mac mini maxed out at 8 GB, and I wish I could stuff more in there--I get a lot of pageouts, depending on what applications I have open. In general, it behooves one to install as much RAM as one can afford. Especially if one uses Adobe or other memory-hungry apps.

You might find some help here: http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/...

Even assuming the LB is OK, that computer at this point in time is only worth $500-600, in my opinion. Probably not worth the effort, sadly. What other components are missing? PSs are only about $120 and HDs are cheap. Just wondering what it needs that's worth $600.

If you're running OSX, you can boot to the system CD and look in the Utilites (or possibly another) menu for the password reset utility. Resetting this password will let you log on and install software, but without your original password, your keychain's stored passwords will be inaccessible (for email, etc.) If you're running OS9 then it's the firmware password. Sorry, I can't remember if that can be bypassed or not. Here's another article that may be helpful: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1352

Can you describe the "remote install OS X window"? While you're running in OS9, can you open the Control Panels/Startup Disk window and choose your OSX installation there? If the "remote install" window is actually the Netboot window, this should fix that.

An important thing to do with iMacs of this vintage is to open up the back (there are 3 screws along the bottom edge) and check the capacitors carefully for swelling or leakage. Shine a bright flashlight into the holes of the power supply; sometimes you can see if there's a bad cap in there, which could cause power issues. See how to take the back of at http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/Insta...-iMac-G5-17-Inch-Model-A1058-Power-Supply/969/1

Can you try booting while holding down the Option key? Do you get a choice of OS9 or OSX? Failing that, try booting while holding down the X key. This is supposed to start up in OSX. Been so long, I don't remember if it works just with Boot Camp or also with OS9, but it's worth a try.

Assuming you've checked the partition map per David's suggestion... According to MacTracker, this iBook came with 10.3 installed, so it might not run 10.2. If you didn't make a a typo in your question, are you sure this installer is compatible with your computer? If the other iBook you used is a G3, then maybe the 10.2 installer is the one that came with *it*. Which also explains why the 10.2 installer would boot the other iBook.

If your computer supports 6gb, I believe more RAM would give you greater benefit than the nonexistant or negligible advantage of interleaving. Apple's RAM limits are always based on what chips were available at the time the computer was manufactured, and they never update them to reflect current availability. Mactracker is an excellent source of information, and it's free. Online, there is http://www.everymac.com, which is a little harder to navigate.

Maxheater, sorry, i don't know, having only worked on one of these. Maybe there's a trackpad tutorial with the info.

I've done several of these before, but today it was a bear to accomplish. I finally did it by inserting a dental pick through the optical slot and pulling forward to release the clip. In case it will help someone else, pictures of the clip are at Devil Clip.

On reassembly, check carefully that none of the fiddly little cables are trapped under the logic board. I had to back up and liberate the subwoofer connector. It takes some careful jiggling to get the sockets seated in the port holes.

The bottom case clip is screwed to a black plastic bracket that's glued onto the upper case. My replacement upper case did not come with this bracket. I had to carefully pry it off the old upper case, taking care not to break it, and glue it to the new upper case before replacing the logic board.

When I took this apart, I was concerned about getting it back together again! I was relieve to see that the replacement upper case came with its own preinstalled battery connector cable and cover.

See the bracket that the right side of the optical drive is screwed to? My replacement upper case did not come with that, so I had to remove it from the bad case and move it to the new one. The instructions leave that out.

My replacement upper case came with its own preinstalled, preglued hard drive cable.

My clip is oriented 180 degrees (flipped) from this picture.

Pry under the side where the wires connect.

By "bottom", it means the top ones (if the computer were right-side-up), i.e. the ones closer to the lid.