It could be a couple different things, but my first thought is a failed power supply. It could be shorted out due to a component failure, which would certainly prevent any other components from starting up and could cause a clicking sound. Check the power supply itself using the guide here. While following the steps to get at it, keep an eye out for any other signs of damage or problems (discoloration of the logic board, scorch marks, any burnt smell, or anything obvious). It's unlikely, but I wouldn't dismiss the possibility. If you don't have the tools, you can get them through the Parts & Tools section of the site. The ones you need will be at the beginning of the guide (you can click on them to access their respective pages). I hope this helps! Edit: To repeat the comment above, here's a link to a similar thread on the same machine. Thanks to mayer for this bit of diagnostic advice: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/9792/...-+no+power%2C+number+1+diagnostic+LED+on#...

These are post codes (aka "beep" codes) that the BIOS gives when there's a hardware problem. Unfortunately, there's no universal standard for what means what between board manufacturers (or even between boards by the same!) I'll need to know the exact model to be able to give you more than that. Have you recently done anything with the memory or other hardware? This might have something to do with it. Any details you could provide will help. I'll update my answer when I have more info to go on. In the meantime, here's a link to HP's troubleshooting guide for beep codes. The list at the bottom does not give an explanation of this specific code, but the steps should be followed anyway. I've seen posts about this problem, but nobody had anything useful to say and were all old and closed.

I guarantee that they'll notice. It's not just "residue". There's a good chance there is more drink left on the board. The system likely needs to be cleaned on the component level (meaning dismantled and each part cleaned). While some areas may well be free of drink, anything that the drink might have touched (LCD, keyboard, motherboard, casing, etc.) will need cleaning. Unless you purchased accidental damage coverage, no warranty (that I've ever seen) will cover this. The last time I saw something like this, it was coffee, and it had actually insulated, overheated, and burned out the charging chip. Admittedly, this was not on an Apple, but they're not THAT different. If you're not comfortable taking it apart to clean it, I'd take it to someone that is. Use high-purity isopropyl alcohol (90% or better) for the cleaning. I prefer foam or foam-over-cotton swabs for detailed cleaning. If you NEED something pointy, use a plastic or wood pick, never metal. While cleaning, look for signs of heat damage (yellowing o...

How old is the system? Does other DVD media work? I'm assuming you burned the ISOs to DVD-R discs...? My first thought is that the drive does not support DVD, which would date the system as fairly old. If this is the case, you'll probably need to upgrade the optical drive (fairly inexpensive and a rather simple procedure). If the system is newer (within the last 5 years), the drive would be DVD-capable. You can tell by looking at the drive tray front panel. It should be pretty obvious (look for the DVD logo). If it's capable, but having trouble, the drive itself may just need replacing. Same fix as if outdated. Just be sure you know the connection type (IDE vs SATA). Most drives now are SATA. Take out the old one and bring it with you to a local electronics or computer store if you're not sure. Last thought is that you're using the same media for all the Linux burns. If this is true, and other DVD media plays just fine, then you probably want to pick up a different brand of disc and try again. I hope this hel...

From my research, you should be able to upgrade to the processor to the 3.6GHz i5 (680) mentioned in the alternative-configuration spec, but I don't believe it would work for an i7 due to power requirements and a likely lock-out by Apple on the hardware itself. I hope this helps!

I will assume, by the description, that you're hooking this to a CRT (old tube TV). :p The last time I had a console do what you describe, it turned out to be the AV input connection on the TV itself. While possible it is the cable, the symptoms usually ended up being different that you describe. Swapping cables, if you have a spare available, would be a great way to actually rule this out. When you adjust the cable's position (aka "jiggling"), does it make a difference? Does it matter where along the cable you do this? Check to see if the jack(s) is (are) loose in any way on the TV. If so, then the soldering that holds it may have cracked or broken in the TV. It might be fixable, but it's insanely dangerous and probably not worthwhile. (Met an electronics veteran who was lucky to be alive after accidentally brushing against the leads of a CRT capacitor early in his career. NOT RECOMMENDED!) Your best bet, if the above mentioned diagnostic "jiggling" doesn't narrow down the cause, is to connect the Saturn to ...

Replacing the PSU sounds like the first order of business. Wireless devices do tend to get warm, so unless it's literally hot to the touch or starts having issues, I wouldn't worry too much about that. Let us know if this fixes the problem or if there's more. I'd like to believe that it's JUST the PSU, but you never know. Power-spike-related damage is unpredictable. I've seen surges take out modems and the motherboards they were attached to, or just the modem. Luckily, with most mid-grade or better surge protectors and UPS (battery backup) units having built-in cable, phone, and ethernet jacks, that's not as much of an issue these days. (Which, of course, you should be using.) I hope this helps!

The smallest I've dealt with is VGA ports and IDE hard drive connectors, but this should be fixable, depending on the severity of the damage. If the pin is bent at the base, but is otherwise undamaged, it should be a relatively simple task to just straighten it out. Since the pins are far too close together to use most needle-nose pliers (even the small ones sold here), I suggest a very small flat-tip screwdriver (glasses-repair style). If the pin is simply leaning against another pin, you may be able to try just pushing the tip of the pin SLOWLY back into place without dismantling the camera, assuming you can see what you're doing. If, however, the pin is bent further down, you'll need a bit more leverage, which means taking it apart to access the assembly. While none of the guides here currently show how to remove the CF assembly, Installing Nikon D70 Rear Cover Assembly should get you close. From the look of it (Step 9, second photo), there's a couple screws holding a metal plate over the lens motor that r...

It appears there's a video-detect reset function of the PS3. Assuming there's no hardware trouble, the cables are all connected properly, and the TV is set to the correct input, try holding down the power button for 5 seconds or so while the unit is off. It should beep a second time to let you know it worked. Now, try turning it on. It also appears that Tim Gelvin (iFixit contributor) is writing a guide to address this exact issue. It's showing up as incomplete, but it helps to validate my own research. I hope this helps!

According to iFixit (and every other source I could find), what you probably need is called an LED Driver board. The backlighting of LED-lit displays is a bit different than standard CCFL-lit LCD displays. For one, there is no "inverter". I found this out the hard way working on a Sony several months ago. It was my first foray into LED displays on laptops (or anywhere, to be honest). At an educated guess, I'd bet the LED Driver board controls the keyboard lighting as well. Replacing the LCD panel will not fix your problem, as it has no control over the lighting, regardless of what type is used. I hope this helps! Update: It seems I need to learn to read the questions better. I missed the "unibody" reference. I'll assume [[Device:MacBook Pro 15" Unibody 2.53 GHz Mid 2009|this]] is, in fact, the model in question. (I can't actually edit the device listed on the page...rep not high enough, I guess.) That said, this may be the correct one. Unfortunately, this is the entire assembly, rather than just a part. I che...