- The top screen for my DS Lite is not functioning properly. When I turn it on, the touch screen works, but the top screen only...
- Apple has acknowledged that this is a problem with this particular model. They have a replacement program where you can order a new cover (for a small fee). It includes a replacement cover along with the necessary screws. This can happen if you're using it on your lap. The underside of the computer can get quite hot, and this can cause the adhesive underneath to break down, causing the rubber to come off. If your computer is under warranty, it can be replaced for free at any Apple Store. Just be sure to show your sales receipt as verification.
- You should always use the correct type and speed of memory specified by Apple. Always use DDR3 rated at 1066 MHz. On MacBooks (mid 2010), the bus speed is 1066 MHz. Using 1333 won't work, as you found. It's not supported by the motherboard. To be safe and to prevent problems, ALWAYS use the memory specified by Apple. It will save you the headaches down the road.
- It appears that you have a bad cable. Try using another cable and open iTunes.
- Yes, try connecting to an external monitor. If it's bright on the external, then the problem lies in your LCD panel. If this is the case, then the entire panel will need to be replaced. It seems like a connection somewhere in the panel might be shorting out, which explains the problems you describe. Since the components are in the display itself, it's not possible to repair it. I'm not sure if you'll be able to get a replacement panel for you MacBook, but you can look around. Replacement involves getting the entire panel out from the bezel, which can be a challenging proposition, so if you want to attempt it, be very careful and make a note where the screws go. Good luck!!!
- If it's connected via a USB port, it should be able to recognize your drive. If so, the the logic board is bad and will need to be replaced. However, I'm not sure how much they cost, so shop around. Good Luck!
- I suspect that there may be a problem with the logic board. This points to a bad controller chip, which may be why your hard drive is not being detected. Try putting the drive in another computer and see if the drive is being recognized. If so, then the problem is on your logic board.
- Sounds like some sort of hardware issue. Try resetting and see if that clears the problem. If it persists, take it to your nearest Apple Store and have them take a look.
- Try getting into the configuration settings for the Microsoft Security Essentials. There may be some sort of setting which might be causing the problem. The Location Services on the iPod Touch as you know, only works when the Wi-Fi is on, and I suspect the Microsoft security program might be preventing the location service from working. If this is the case, I suggest you uninstall the program and try again.
- Restoring is supposed to erase all the contents stored on the iPod Touch, including the password. If that fails, try taking it to your nearest Apple Store and have them try. I suspect that you may have some sort of hardware issue. Try restoring again, and if it still doesn't clear the password, use my suggestion. Otherwise get a new iPod Touch. Good luck!!
- One thing to note here when it comes to jailbreaking iOS devices: YOUR WARRANTY IS NULL AND VOID. Apple will NOT fix your device if you jailbreak your device. This is considered tampering, and they will refuse to repair your device. Also, it's a security risk, because there's malware written for jailbroken devices, some of which can steal information stored on your device without your knowledge. I would recommend completely restoring your device through iTunes and don't do jailbreak because of the security risk.
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Unfortunately, the Virtual Boy was panned even before release. Designed by Gunpei Yokoi, the person responsible for the Game & Watch and the Game Boy, the Virtual Boy was considered a failure. As a result, he was publicly ridiculed. He quit Nintendo and formed his own company, but died in a car crash soon after. The Virtual Boy unfortunately wasn't accepted, as people who played on the system complained of headaches due to the display. It's not something you can play for extended periods of time.
In regard to cleaning the contacts, DO NOT USE A PENCIL ERASER!! Because of the abrasive nature, the eraser on a pencil will actually wear off the gold coating on the contact, exposing the tin underneath, which will cause corrosion and bad contact. This can also cause electrostatic discharge, which can destroy the chips and render the game useless. Use a cotton swab and alcohol, but NOT a pencil eraser.
In regards to the difficulty switches, switching to "B" was the easier setting and switching to "A" was the harder setting. Some examples:
A: Make the missiles you launch slower
B: Make the missiles you launch faster
A: Makes your base bigger (and most likely to be hit)
B: Makes your base smaller
A: UFOs appear
B: UFOs does not appear
Hopefully the information I provided here will help those confused with the difficulty switches.
Yes, socketing the chips DID make replacement easy. However, because they are of the DIP (Dual Inline Package) design, they have one annoying flaw: They tend to "walk" out of the sockets over time. Here's how it happens: When you turn the system on and off, the internal circuitry heats up and cools down. This causes expansion when heated, and contraction when cooled. Over a period of time, this causes the chips to "walk" out of the sockets, causing bad contact and the system will fail to power up. The solution is to open it up and reseat the chips back into the socket. This is one annoying thing about that design. The original IBM PC had a lot of sockets for its memory, and when the event I described happens, the computer would refuse to power up. That's the reason why SIMMs and DIMMs were introduced.
It's interesting to note that the 6507 was a 6502 with some data lines deleted. This meant that the 2600 can only access up to 4K. However, some companies used a bank switching technique, so some cartridges had as much as 16K! That was quite a bit in those days, as memory was pretty expensive.
I actually have Tri-Wing screws on mine!! You can't open the unit up unless you have the proper tools!