- In the 3g & 3gs, the lcd could be released from the midframe via removal of screws, How is it attached to the glass/digitiser...
- I would agree with all the solitions above. Always try the reset , re-seating lcd connector options first.... And of course if you swap the screen and a new one works then of course you know the first screen was faulty. IF ALL of those things fail and you know the screen itself is not faulty then one thing that worked for me was: Using a magnifer (20x binocular if possible) look at the area to the right of the lcd connector on the mother board - with the lcd itself disconnected. There should be a row of tiny components in a vertical line between the right hand side of the connector and the ambient light sensor (the one with the foam sponge around it). The 2nd component up should be a little black resistor. I had accidentally knocked mine off whilst prying up the lcd connector. I bridged that missing resistor by applying some solder across the 2 pads and when then lcd was re-connected the white screen was fixed. That was a year ago & the ipod has worked fine since. Ideally you would get a resistor the same siz...
- Thanks Alse, Will try one without the metal clip & report back. Steve
- Hi, The connectors are the same but as mentioned above, the 4S has a small round window for the ambient light sensor, adjacent to the purple/blue windows for the proximity sensor/s. So the 'automatic brightness' setting wont work. Also the screw lugs for the surrounding frame are in different places. I have even seen some cheaper units where a 4 screen/digitise
r has been placed on a 4S frame and sold as a 4s!
The glass is indeed very fragile- unlikely to be gorilla glass.
The last step shows the lcd/digitiser assembly still enclosed within the plastic frame. Has anyone tried to remove the lcd/digitiser from the frame? The only lcd/digi assemblies I have found for sale do not include the frame so the broken screen has to be removed and the new screen fitted to the old frame. Doesn't sound like fun!