I have a Pismo 400MHz with a new PRAM battery, new 80 GB hard drive, I GB of RAM and running Tiger OS 10.4.11 with all update...

I have two project Pismo's that I recently brought to working condition. One of the two has a somewhat dimmer (less bright) d...

I have just pulled my old PowerBook 1400c with a G3 upgrade, out of storage. I've read about a few of the upgrade possibiliti...

Hello All, I am just about to do a RAM and Hard Drive upgrade on my iMac G4 1.25ghz 17" and am wondering if anyone has inform...

I am reposting my question from Apple Discussions to see if someone here may have a little more insight into the problem. Her...

I am reinstalling my logic board after a reballing repair. I sent the board in with the yellow foam pad attached to the shiel...

I am reinstalling my recently repaired logic board in my G3 900mhz iBook 14". The original thermal heat transfer materials on...

Hello, I am trying to help a friend repair her computer (this one) and am more familiar with working on Apple products (iBook...

I know this question has been asked before, but I'm unable to find the answer. Can you replace an iBook G3 900mgz 14" logic b...

In your troubleshooting, did you happen to reset the PMU? It controls the sleep functions. Just a thought. PowerBook G3 Series (M4753) 1. If the computer is on, turn it off. 2. Simultaneously press Shift-Fn (function)-Ctrl (control)-Power. 3. Wait 5 seconds. 4. Press the Power button to restart the PowerBook computer. A hard reset might work if this doesn't. Remove the battery, then hold down the power button for 30 seconds. Wait five seconds. Replace the battery and push the power button.

Here you go! Installing iBook G3 Clamshell Airport Card and.... or.... wirelss card from eBay Randy

I had this exact same problem with my 12"iBook G3. I purchased a brand new inverter cable from iFixit, went carefully through the 68 steps in the ifixit replacement procedure and now have my display back. Pretty gratifying. Wishing you success.

It is much easier to remove and replace the hard drive by first removing the two T8 Torx screws on the hard drive connector at the end of the hard drive bracket (small green IC board). Less of a chance of bending the HD pins.

To follow up on my last note regarding the processor card connector: On the next Pismo I worked on, I added an almost microscopic amount of silicone dielectric compound to the outside of the 6 tiny beveled plastic pin edges on the connector side that is mounted to the logic board. I applied the dielectric compound with a toothpick. This small amount of lubrication made it much easier to snap the connector down to the logic board.

It should be noted (at least in my case) that it takes a considerable amount of pressure to snap the processor connector back into place on the logic board when reinstalling it step 12. I learned this the hard way, requiring another dis-assembly. I'd hate to say that you really have to shove on it, but at least put some strong pressure on the processor directly above the connector point, which is hidden under the card. It helped me to remove the memory module so that I could place my two fingers there and push with a little rocking motion.

I feel that it is easy and better to disconnect the power and sound card plugs before removing the upper case as described in step 37. There is less danger of pulling on the plug wires.

If you unplug the white connector on the EMI filter in step 44 first. You have the option of just leaving the EMI filter attached to the metal frame.

After removing and replacing the logic board on my iMac G5 twice, I thought I should add a suggestion.

Before replacing the board, it helps to tape or tie back all of the cables and connectors well out of the way. It's so easy to accidentally trap one of the connectors under the edge of the board. Also make sure to tie the speaker cables in a little bundle to make sure they fit into the small notch in the board/frame as it goes down.

One more item. When lowering the board into place, watch the small white plastic sleep light cone. The left of the two ears tend to get stuck on the edge of the (midplane?). It's difficult to see, but you can poke the end of a spurger in from the left to move the cone over just far enough to clear as the board is lowered. Make sure the holes in the sleep light cone ears are located over the little white matching pins. I made this mistake which caused me to remove the logic board, disturbing the thermal paste on the CPU.

When reinstalling the two screws in step 10, make sure that they are the correct length. There is no margin for error here. You can damage the board with the battery contacts. The screws are 4.5mm with small heads. And.. I will never admit that I'm speaking from experience!

The little tabs on the shield that are intended to contact the metal on the ports and the optical drive had been flattened out on my iBook and were no longer in contact. I didn't notice this until I had installed the shield. Make sure the tabs are bent down a bit as to contact the ports and optical drive. This system looks like it replaced the foil tape on earlier models. Just my own observation.

To add to my above comment: There doesn't seem to be a correct hex size for these 3 screws in either metric or SAE. Actually, the T9 Torx driver works pretty well. I replaced the stripped screws with three brand new ones.

By using a T8 Torx screwdriver to remove and reinstall the three hex screws on the bottom case as suggested, I ended up stripping the screw heads when tightening them. By pushing hard on a T9 Torx driver I was able to carefully remove the stripped screws. I would recommend using the proper size hex driver instead of the T8 Torx driver for a more positive grip in the screw head.