There is an aftermarket kit around called Afterburner. It is a frontlight based on a few white LED light strips. However, it involves almost completely dismantling the GBA to install it, a 30 percent reduction in battery life, a washed out and trapezoidal-shaped shadow effect on the display (because it's a frontlight, not a backlight, and it's not originally designed for the system, respectively), and requires some soldering. It's even hard to find one now, because the company that manufactured them has gone under from some legal something-or-other. Of course, you can always get something like these, which just plugs into the EXT port in the GBA and draws power from it to run an LED, which shines at the screen. Simple. I suppose you can make one if you had the components and skill, but I would advise against it and just get an SP, especially the backlit model (does "Now with a BRIGHTER backlit screen!" ring a bell?), as it is much better than the frontlit one. SP's are only about $40 used nowadays, as opposed...

Yep, it's fine. It's better than fine, beats blowing in them, as that oxidizes them from the moisture. Just don't use anything strong like acetone, that will eat the plastic!

I would say it's the power regulation section. In taking apart some computer power supplies, I've seen power transistors and voltage regulators that were heavily heatsink'd. They are most likely the culprit, but it could also be a transformer, though at the power the PS3 operates, that's most likely not it.

I suppose you can open it up (if you have the right nut driver thing, same as N64 and GC) and see if a solder joint broke loose. If you know how to solder you might be able to fix it. If you want to get a whole new replacement jack, it's somewhat complicated, as the different localizations use different plugs, jacks, voltages (not just changes in voltage, but AC vs. DC) and currents. Read this post here for some clarification. It seems the US SNES has a proprietary plug and jack, so good luck finding an exact replacement if you have that. If you're not afraid of modifying your case and power supply, you can get a different sized jack and plug, as long as the center is negative if you have DC.

I've taken apart some N64 controllers and replaced sticks before. The analog stick is a separate module that screws in to the front (you might see this if you have a translucent one). There is no real way to repair a stick module, as normal movement wears at the plastic bezel in it and creates play. The tolerances are pretty tight, I think if you tried to put a shim in it or something, it wouldn't work well. You can get a NOS module from someplace like HERE. The way to get at it is somewhat simple. Unscrew the 9 Phillips screws on the bottom of the controller (7 in plain view, two smaller ones in the Controller Pac slot thing). Separate the two halves, and be prepared to catch the shoulder buttons. Once inside, unclip the blue membrane switch for the Z button from the underside of the module. Unplug the connector that goes to the bottom right part of the board. Unscrew the three silver screws holding the module in (NOT the black one, because the whole module will let go into two halves and fly apart from spri...

This is a common problem with Lites. Amazingly, Nintendo has SUPPOSEDLY agreed to repair Lites with cracked hinges for free, even if it's out of warranty. See: http://www.engadget.com/2006/07/21/ninte...-fesses-up-to-ds-lite-hinge-defect-will-fix-for-free/ The comments here say it's kind of dubious, though. This doesn't actually affect the hinge's action at all; what is actually cracked is just the housing. It doesn't really affect the integrity of the thing. If it doesn't bother you that much, you can live with it. Nintendo's support line is 1-800-225-3700.

Indeed, I had the same problem with my GameCube. The laser module died, but the spindle motor and laser carriage worm drive motor were both fine, as I could hear it both spinning briefly and trying to seek, but finding nothing. Maybe your lens is just really dirty? Try cleaning it with alcohol.

The classic answer to this is to blow in the cart where it goes in the console. This is good practice for cart-based systems, I suppose, it does the trick with the N64. If this doesn't work, the contacts on the cart might be particularly oxidized/dirty, try going at it with a toothbrush and some contact cleaner. Avoid getting too much contact cleaner on anything plastic, as most contain acetone and will warp plastics. E: Huh, didn't know that, Andrew. I though the moisture increased the conductivity of the pins. Never thought of it in terms of oxidation...maybe I can get some alcohol in a spray bottle and some paper towels for my cart systems instead of blowing in them. Thanks for the tip, I guess.

When plugged in, does it run? If so, the battery might be nearing the end of its life cycle. Go grab a new one if it's too old. Other than that, it might be bricked. If you're unable or unwilling to send it to Sony, maybe try a Pandora's Battery, to put it into service mode. E: Uh...I don't know too much about servicing PSPs, but my general knowledge is telling me it's bricked, because there's no user serviceable parts left to it, except maybe the memory stick, which you might want to check for corruption on a computer. As I said, maybe try a Pandora's battery. It's meant to get it into service mode to put custom firmware on it for homebrew and all that, but it may save your ROM where the OS of the thing is. See: http://www.pandorabatteryco.com/ and Google the subject some more. I must tell you this is risky business, mucking around with a Pandora's battery, but the PSP can't really be worse off than it is. If you're not comfortable with it, give it to Sony. If you're not technically minded, leave it be. But ...

As near as I can tell, there aren't any more. See: Nexus One Teardown

There's an ominous green tactile button under the StrongARM.T think if you push it the thing will self-destruct.