Guides I've Contributed To
- So I have a PS3 slim I'm trying to get working. The console won't output any video, and after being on for about 30 seconds o...
- So here's the deal. I replaced the digitizer/LCD assembly on a customer's AT&T iPhone 4. After install, the middle of the tou...
- So a customer brought in his PS3, which shows no signs of life at all. There was some sort of power surge that knocked out hi...
- So, I do all sorts of electronics repair, but I seem to have the worst luck with NES's. Having fixed several of them and orde...
- So here's the issue. I have a 20" iMac G5 iSight that came to me with a bad hard drive. It was showing the folder with a ques...
- Had this same issue after replacing the front assembly. Reseated all the connections, reset the phone several time to no avail. Then I try popping the SIM card out and putting it back in (with the phone on) and suddenly it gets signal.
- I've messed with about a dozen of these with hardly any success. The connector is only salvageable if none of the pins break off when it comes loose, which doesn't seem to happen most of the time. Unfortunately the port is NOT standard... the positioning of the pins is fine but the port itself is raised up from the board, which likely contributes to it being easier to break off, and probably why ports of this type aren't used in anything else I know off. There is a $20 replacement part available on eBay, a bit steep, but the only one that I can find.
- I've not seen this issue on the 3DS yet, but on the DS Lite sometimes the cable to the top LCD could be loose and result in the behavior you described. As someone else said it could be short (i.e. a broken cable) but I think it's more likely just loose. Check where the cable plugs into the motherboard.
- Turn the switch off on the back, then hold down eject and turn the switch back on. Doesn't work on all PS3's but iit's worth a try.
- Very much doubt it.
- I took the smallest flat head I could find (still too big) and filed it to about a 30 degree angle and it surprisingly worked perfectly.
- Using quite a bit of force I've been able to transition from the top/bottom to one of the sides without removing the tool, just be forcing it around the corner of the device. It will mangle the tool, but they're meant to be disposable.
- The best you could do would be to take it apart and see if you could clean that area. I would recommend a brush or q-tip with rubbing alcohol. In order to open the controller you need a security tox screwdriver, you can get them off of eBay for a decent price.
- All of the parts that would commonly be replaced, that is the LCD, disc drive, and joystick are all interchangeable between any 2000 series PSP, at least in my experience working on at least a couple dozen of them. I would be surprised if anything else was incompatible. Besides, I'm fairly certain that the wifi chip is incorporated into the motherboard itself, making this a non-issue.
- Could be a RAM issue. On this model I believe that there is one stick on the bottom and one underneath the keyboard. Try removing one at a time to see if either might be causing the problem.
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This part scared me, never in an iFixIt guide have I seen a warning like "trying times are ahead".
I used a plastic iPod opening tool and ran it around the seam in the same order pictured. I had the plastic off in less than a minute with almost no fuss.
Unlike the DS Lite and later models, there is no reason to take apart the bottom portion of the original DS in order to remove the top screen. The first ten steps of this guide could be skipped.