- It's a common problem and increasingly so as this device is now reaching a couple years old. Unlike the 4/4s power switch issue which was caused by the switch cap "nipple" breaking off the top of the actuator disc (which would make the button feel extremely stiff when depressed) and on the 4/4s this would make the button not have the "Click" any longer. No matter how hard you pushed, the button would not click. With the iphone 5 it's a different situation...the button will click, but it just doesn't do anything! My question is this... Has anyone figured out if replacing the actuator discs on the switch cap solves the problem on the iPhone 5? It is a tedious and time consuming repair to replace the entire power flex assembly, which is what I have been doing for this problem on the 5. I can fix the 4/4s power switch cap in about 15 minutes, but having to replace the entire power flex on the 5 takes nearly an hour ;( Anyone that has experimented with replacing just the switch cap discs (little metal dome shaped ...
- I've seen this home button failure problem numerous times with the 3Gs and water damage. I came across a fix a while back that allowed me to fix 2 water damaged logic boards that had lost home button function at board level (replacement of home button flex cable did not resolve) that I had figured I'd tried everything on. I'm posting a link to an image that shows the area on the backside of the logic board that need close inspection and further cleaning with a needle to resolve. Good Luck! http://www.gurumicro.com/images/nohome.j...
- I used the iPhone 3G/3Gs adhesive kit. I did have to modify them a little to make them fit properly. If you can find a seller of the 3M 300LSE in a small sheet, that's the best bet and you can cut your own. I ended up using the 3G lower piece around the home button area, but custom cut the side strips and the areas around the ear piece/cameras. Another thing to note is that you MUST cut extremely thin strips to run down the long sides of the frame (this isn't usually necessary on the 3G series iphones) or the glass will not seat tightly into the midframe. The iPod touch repair is not like the iPhone 3G/3Gs series in any way. The disassembly guide here is pretty good, but you must take things slow or you will cause damage to other components. When you buy the replacement part make sure you get the LCD/Digitizer as a single piece. It costs over twice as much to buy it this way, but you'll need to replace both even though your LCD may be working. They are fused together like the iPhone 4.
- You need an LCD and Digitizer. My understanding is the glass is cracked and the gray lines you see are actually damage to the LCD screen underneath. You can buy and entire midframe assembly with glass, LCD, home button, proximity sensor assembly all pre-assembled on eBay and this would be the best route if you are not mechanically inclined. However you may not be getting "orignal" Apple parts, so read carefully. Always look for OEM or original quality assemblies if available, there are a bunch of garbage 3rd party parts out there so beware of imitators, calling it junk is an understatement! Also, not all that say "OEM" actually are. Look for words like "Genuine" or "Original" in the listing and the Apple name (properly spelled too, APPIE doesn't count!) will be on some components. If you buy just the digitizer (with 3M adhesive) and LCD this will be least expensive route to repair (probably have about $75 invested for both "genuine Apple quality" on eBay), but you'll be in for some skilled disassembly to get ...
- What a pizzer! I repair liquid damaged phones all the time. First I don't like contact cleaner on iPhone logic boards for a number of reasons, but too late for that. I'd suggest if you haven't done so yet, remove the logic board totally from the housing and thus removing the battery from contaqcting the logic board before proceeding with any cleaning. Then using a VERY small screw driver or dental pick, pry the metal heat shield off the logic board (VERY CAREFULLY) there are small capacitors that can be damaged if pried against, take your time. Use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and a clean toothbrush to clean any residual corrosion, oxidation and urine traces (haha) from the board. Then put it together and try again to power it up when dry. Do a hard reset (power and home together) sometimes with water damage it puts the phone in DFU mode or a similar state of semi-conscious behavior (sort of like your friend!). You might also have a bad dock connector,there
by preventing your phone from being recognized by a computer...
- This reply may be redundant, but yes everyone is right on the money with water damage and dock connector issues causing this problem. Definitely check your dock connector for pocket lint compacted down in it. I have seen iPhones with so much fuzz jammed into the dock port that the power charger won't even lock into place properly! If you get a little moisture on this "lint jam" it can short your connector. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to replace a dock connector on a 2G because it is so intertwined with the midframe and also requires removal of top glass and LCD because the flex assembly is also part of the home button. (Man I'm glad Apple changed this design with the 3G!) You'll likely damage more stuff trying to replace a dock connector on a 2G than it's worth. I suggest buying the entire 2G top glass/midframe assembly (provided of course you don't have water damage evident on the logic board) I've used this unit from Hong Kong for $98.00US (free shipping) a few times(Cosmax I believe is the compa...
- Go to a hardware store and they make heavy duty pick tools for mechanics and such. I use the Craftsman brand pick set, they are about 6" long and have clear plastic handles. The whole set was like $10 at Sears Hardware and has 4 different style picks with handles on them similar to a screwdriver grip. One of the picks in particular has almost like a double bend to it, it is nearly perfect for a 1st gen iPhone disassembly, no bent aluminum housings or broken fastening tabs anymore!! This type professional pick is WAY better than dental picks because they always seemed have to much flex in them to actually pry off a stubborn 2G back housing.
TIP: Another method which works well for clearing solder from holes (especially on repairs like AC Jacks on laptops) is to use compressed air to clear melted solder from holes. A quick blast with a duster can works well (I have even used a drink straw in a pinch and blown out with a blast of air from mouth). Heat the solder until it liquefies, put the duster straw right above the solder and quickly hit the melted solder with an air blast to instantly clear the hole of solder. This works well on very small holes as melted solder does not always push out cleanly with metal tools. You have to be quick with the air blast because the solder re-hardens rapidly.
Quote from bradleydad:
I've done several of these without removing the optical drive, etc, and just gone directly to replacing the hinges from here.
Agreed! There is no need to remove the optical drive to get the LCD out at this point.You do need to remove the hinge screws and retainers, but just long enough to pop off the plastic cover to expose the inverter. You do need to support the lid assemble a bit while doing this (an extra hand is nice if available) but it only take a second to remove the inverter cover. Then I'd put the hinges partially back together with two screws and proceed with removing the LCD panel from the frame at this point. Saves quite a bit of time and headache not having to remove the optical drive and everything in the remaining steps.
Important thing about this repair is to take your time, moveslowly and be very organized with all your screws and parts. I use a multi-compartment organizer for all my laptop repairs and label each compartment with tape (ie. LCD frame, hinges, Bottom Panel, Inverter cover...) Makes re-assembly easy and no leftover screws in the end!!