Guides I've Contributed To
- Replacing the #3 cable is rather tricky and I didn't manage to find a good description. So having done it, here is what I did: 1) Note the number 3 cable is held down by a piece of metal which is folded over to make 3 clips. Google "iPhone 3G Proximity Sensor Cable" to see pictures of the cable and the metal cover with 3 bent metal clips 2) use a fine pointed bent metal probe tool to unhook the metal clips. 3) ( I used http://www.mendapump.com/MendaCatalog/To... and http://www.mendapump.com/MendaCatalog/To... This is tricky but doable and a lot easier than removing the glass to get to the clips as I saw on one YouTube video.
- Worth reading this thread (at least a few pages at the start and a few at the end). Heat has some role. I think it's a symptom of system software corruption but others think it's bad thermal paste. http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa...
The vibrator motors die with use, so it could be that they just died coincidentally. I have replaced two on two phones. There are two models of vibrate motor - one with bent metal contacts and one with two coil springs. There were two different vibrate motors in the two iPhone 3G 16GB we bought at the same time. I chose to buy the motors with the coil springs, since they should maintain contact better over time.
Note the photograph shows the two tabs on the vibrate motor visible - this is incorrect. The tabs go into slots in the rear case. The vibrate motors behave better attached to the rear case with a small dab of neutral cure silicone, which eliminates a nasty rattly vibrate noise.
I note a lot of people forgot to retrieve the chromed trims from their old case. I tried to edit to ensure someone next doesn't make the same mistake, but my edits got rejected.
[* black] The rear panel, attached front bezel, camera housing, chrome trims, microphone/spea
ker grills, and volume switch remain.
[* black] Use a spudger to remove the camera housing and its chrome trim ring. When reassembling, note the chrome trim ring is keyed to the camera housing.
[* black] Use a spudger to remove the microphone and speaker grilles from either side of the dock connector. They are attached with adhesive.
[* black] Use a spudger to remove the headphone socket chrome trim with plastic surround (stuck with the blue glue on the photo).
[* black] Carefully pry the glue join between the metal bezel and the plastic case. Remove the bezel and the volume switch. The volume switch has attached plastic spacers between it and the volume switch mechanism which must be retained or replaced for the buttons to protrude enough to be pressed. When gluing the bezel to the new rear case, do not apply glue to the part of the bezel which retains the volume switch.
[* black] Remove the grey sticker from the middle of the case.
[* black] Refit the removed parts using their attached double sided tape or a suiitable flexible glue (eg polyurethane adhesive).
[* black] Refit the removed parts using their attached double sided tape or a suitable strong and flexible glue (eg polyurethane adhesive).
Replacing the motor, I have just done two phones. One makes a rattly vibrate noise, which I think a bit reminscent to my iPhone 3G when new. The second I used a small dollop of neutral cure silicone between the case and motor (staying away from the rotating mass). The annoying vibration noise is not present on the phone with the silicone, so I will redo the first.
Interestingly, the two phones had different motors. Both iPhone 3G 16GB - one black and one white bought at the same time. One had the motor with coil spring contacts, the other had the bent metal contacts. I decided to replace with the coil spring contacts having read a possible issue with vibration affecting the bent metal contact.
I had more joy using a home-made spudger from a bamboo skewer. Being thinner, it can release the connectors from the end rather than a side or corner. (I also tried all the different spudgers made by Menda Tools.)
To remove stickers, I use "Undo" (hexane in a small bottle). It is intended to scrapbooking. I find it great because it can dissolve pressure sensitive adhesive bonds then evaporate and leave the adhesive reusable again. Not sure what the grey sticker is for but it looks like it's there for a purpose.
Agree with DAR and Riz. Since I needed a new home button anyway, I read the procedure for replacing the home button and figured out it was much safer to replace the whole assembly - which it was. A quicky job could be done in a few minutes. Replacing the black tape on the edge makes it all a bit more fiddly, but I wanted to improved on dust sealing. Plus my new assembly didn't have foam on the back of the #2 connector - so I fashioned a replacement with adhesive transfer tape and thin black foam recovered from printer toner packaging.
I think the tpae may haev a role in dust sealing and anti-vibration noise. I put extra tape in the spots where I think dust has penetrated under the glass by keeping my iPhone in my pocket. (Will have to double check if there a spots earthing contact is needed.)
I had a lot more joy using a sharpened bamboo skewer that all of the different shaped spudgers I bought from Menda Tools. My home made spudger is thinner and fits into the confined spaces in the phone better.
If the tape is in poor condition, replace with black PVC electrical tape. By sticking the PVC tape to sticker or book covering adhesive backing paper, it can be more easily cut to size/shape as desired.
I use UN-DU scrapbookers adhesive remover <http://un-du.com/>. (It is hexane.) It temporarily dissolves adhesive bond, then evaporates and the adhesive is sticky again. Much less risky than a spudger.
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