- does the use of 2 different 'stick' sizes really cause problems or is it an urban myth? Does anybody have the evidence, is th...
- Is there a way (that has a chance of success) to get the switch and 'volume up' button working without having to disassemble ...
- I like to keep gadgets together with the accessories - an ideal way to store is a ziploc bag. Condensation is a worry with al...
- I saw the question about a 'dimming display' and the responses made me think - will LED lit LCDs last longer - or are the cry...
- My trusty iPhone, just upgraded to iPhone OS 3.1, is losing battery life fast. I replaced the battery with a new item from iF...
- I am trying to replace the battery in my iPhone - but I don't have the steel dental pick suggested in the teardown. Any ideas...
- I found that using a sim that does not get service (overseas carrier, no roaming agreements..) caused my phone to keep searching for a usable carrier, and drained my mobile quite quickly. This was before iPhone, but still an observation - that maybe still holds true
- Very likely caused by overheating. Your battery is most likely 'on the way out'. just keep an eye on it in case it gets too bad, and be prepared to buy a replacement. How is the capacity going?
- Does it heat up? I have seen dishwashers not cleaning and the heater coil was broken. Check if it heats up, and check the heater coil for continuity with an ohm-meter cheers
- Hard to tell what actually happened to cause that. As you say it's empty, have you tried to do a 'factory restore / initialization'
? That is what I'd try -looks like the file system is somehow corrupted, and hopefully the init will restore it
- well, - this - is the part and the instructions are here You need to relace the ribbon cable as the volume buttons/switche
s are attached to it all the best
- You need to replace the headphone/silen
t switch/ volume control cable. I had the same problem. First it was the silent switch becoming very intermittant, then the volume control worked only down ... this is when I HAD to fix it. Following this guide will work. I found the hardest bit to remove the rear cover without damaging it. the cable and switch comes in 2 varieties, make sure you get the correct one for your phone.
- Best to totally retrace your steps. Hopefully you have not assembled it completely (but that is too much to hope for) You most likely have disconnected the display unit or damaged the ribbon cable for it - the only way to find out is to visual inspect it. The connector may just have come off the logic board. Good Luck
- this looks like a connection has broken inside because of the drop. you may have to open it to check if you are comfortable doing so, or have it repaired (quoted) by a professional
- MOV - a varistor to protect the other components. when you say failed - does it present a 'short'? If it is really the only faulty component (could be dameged by a voltage spike, like lightning strike) just removing it should allow the PSU to work again. good for testing see also here: http://www2.electronicproducts.com/Circu...-article-littelfuse-aug2006-html.aspx
- if it was unlocked, and you were using a non at&t sim card - a software upgrade could have upgraded the baseband, and locked the phone to the official at&t sim card
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The ground and Vcc planes / traces were very big in 'those days' .... and why not. The weird thing is that the worse my eyeight gets, the smaller the traces and components become. THEN at least we could easily fix broken PCBs an replace components in the field - try that today!
Those were the days!
I hope you get your hands on a colecovision - I earened my living fixing them!
and never payed a single game of Donkey Kong! :(
Like others - this is where I am stuck. No dental pick, so I search for alternatives. Good the get reminded - if I mangle the case too, hey, my speck cover will hide the scars!