marcucco

I tried the suggestion you made on the "Can't install OS, HD wiped" thread.

I must be doing something wrong.

I start the 1.3GHz iBook G4 from the 10.4 install disk.

The computer doesn't recognize the trackpad, I have to plug in a mouse.

I get the "choose a language" page.

From there I get the "Preparing Installation" prompt which jumps to the "alert ...can not install..." window.

I open terminal from the Utilities pull-down menu and get a "Terminal-bash-80x24" window, the window says:

-bash-2.05b#

After the # I enter:

/Applications/Installer.app/Contents/MacOS/Installer/System/Library/Installation/Packages/OSInstall.mpkg

I get the response

: No such file or directory

I tried a half dozen times so I'm sure it's not a typo,

What am I doing wrong?

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I bought a used iBook G4 1.3GHz.

The guy said he wiped the HD for security reasons.

The computer will start from the install disks that came with my 1.2 GHz iBook, but I get the message

"This software can not be installed on this computer"

Same thing happens with the Apple Hardware Test disk.

I figured all I'd have to do was reformat the HD, but I don't seem to have that option in the utilities when I start from he install disk.

Is the reason I can't load the OS because the firmware got wiped too?

Can I reload this wiith my iMac (intel duo)

I do still have the HD from my 1.2GHz, would/could I swap the 1.2 HD with the 1.3

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I poked thru all 25 pages of the BB and didn't find a solution so I thought I'd give posting a shot.

.

The iBook's LCD boots up to pale gray/ white screen with no image at all,

the backlight does come on, it dips when it goes to sleep or an external monitor is attached.

.

The computer runs perfectly on an external monitor.

The screen is not black, the fan does not run-on, putting pressure on the "video chip" has no effect.

.

This started out of nowhere. It worked fine one day and was dead the next, no bumps or bangs or errant beverages.

.

Hardware things I tried:

-replacing the LCD

-replacing the LCD ribbon cable

-replacing the LCD inverter

-replacing the LCD inverter cable

-remove the memory chip

.

Inspections:

-The solder joints on the ISL 6225CA chip look fine.

-The jacks on the logic board for the LCD and the LCD inverter appear to be good.

-No bulged or discolored chips.

.

Software stuff:

-Apple Hardware Test disk found no problems.

-TechTool found no problems.

-Repairing permissions, zapping the Pram, NVram and all the stock software pimp-slaps didn't help.

-Starting in "Target Mode" leaves me with a black screen, no backlight.

- (it does show the Firewire logo on a blue screen if I plug in the external monitor)

-The F1 & F2 buttons have no effect on the appearance.

-It really felt like a software issue so I did a "Clean Install", no help.

.

Anybody got any ideas?

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Hi Coleen,

I'm (and a bout a zillion other people are) curious to know what you did, step by step.

I tried to do this very thing with a used iBook I purchase and was unable to do it.

I researched the snot out of it, there are literally hundreds of posts asking CMacs question on every Mac related BB.

Your's is the first post I've seen where someone was successful.

Will it work if the computer isn't starting up in the admin's user name?

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Sorry about the typo's

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Hi Coleen.

In order to rest the password, you need to access the operating system already on the HD. Starting from a "strange" disk will not allow you to do that to do that. The password is on the Hard Drive's OS. When you're star from a CD or DVD, you run off the OS on the disk, not the HD.

You can start start a computer from a "strange" disk and you can reformat the HD, but you cannot load a fresh copy of the OS or change the password. You must have the correct disk for that particular computer, or a retail copy or the disk.

The gray disks are protected.

You can borrow a disk and try it yourself if you don't believe me, or you can check out the innumerable threads on Apple Support.

I had fond this, which doesn't involve a start-up disk:

http://www.macyourself.com/2009/08/03/ho...-to-reset-your-mac-os-x-password-without-an-installer-disc/

It didn't work on my 800MHz G4 iBook running 10.4.11, but Cmac would have nothing to lose by trying it.

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Hi Matt,

I appreciate the polite way you put that, but I'm 100% sure I'm correct.

You can not replace the OS with the disks that came with a different computer.

If you don't believe me, Google anything that relates to "Can not load from OSX disk" and you'll see I'm correct.

You CAN boot from a "retail" copy of the disk, which I suspect is what you have done in the past.

(your disk is black, not gray right?)

You can't even load (for instance), an iBook 1.3GHz with the disks that came with a 1.2 iBook disk, (or vise versa) even tho they're both G4s that ran 10.4.

http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Discuss/thre...

http://www.ifixit.com/Discuss/thread/447...

I researched the snot out of this issue everywhere, not just here. The disks are protected.

Again, I appreciate the way you phrased your response. But you're mistaken, it can't be done and so far nobody's found a way around it.

If you HAVE found a way to get one computer to load the OS from the start-up disks from another I suggest you publish it. You're going to be one VERY popular guy

...and I'll be the first to say thanks!

Apple does. in fact. supply replacement disks for older models. All you have to do is call. They're replacement disks (you have to supply a valid serial number) which is why you don't have to pay the full retail price of OSX.whatever-came-with.

You can call them yourself if you don't believe me.

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You're pretty much boned. I've run into this a couple of times with used computers, there's nothing you can do. The disk that came with your computer won't work in a different computer. You need the disk that came with that computer or a retail version of the disk.

You can call Apple, give them the serial number of the computer and they'll send you disks that will work. They cost around $30

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I use a similar fan control program in my Intel iMac.

I jack the speeds up when I'm running processor heavy stuff like games and reset them to normal for browsing or writing.

Keep in mind a fan only has so many revolutions in it.

Speeding up the fans won't help if your burning out chargers tho, that's a separate issue.

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Most folks don't have a "Multi Meter" hanging around, it's an electronics tool to test voltage.

If you now somebody who's an electrician or into electronics or fixes cars, you may be able to borrow one from them, or ask them to run the test for you.

You need to have at least 110 volts in whatever you're plugging the charger into.

If you're using an extension cord, check that too.

If the cord is getting warm, you'll need to find a heavier duty one.

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Is it the plug itself that's heating up?

(this would be the sign of a bad connection)

Or the charger body itself.

(This would mean the the charger is overloaded somehow)

Or the battery?

(bad batt/ battery connection)

My guess there's something environmental involved since it's happening at home but not at the shop.

The techs had it set on a nice clean level bench with an outlet right close by when they tested it.

Do you have the charger plugged into a long cord? Are you in an older building?

(Low voltage can cause AC stuff to heat up. Long cords cause the voltage to drop, older buildings can have really nasty electrical systems.)

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Machead's answer is brilliant, and probably works better then mine.

but if you don't happen to have 2 face tape handy...

The (x) bride once put a mini-disk in her slot loading iMac DV.

I turned it slot down and hit eject to open the gate. I was then able to fish the disk out with tweezers.

As Machead said, good luck.

M

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My iMac does that too.

It would shut itself down when running games.

I checked to be sure all the little fans were running, then down-loaded smcFanControl, problem solved.

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