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Spudger

$2.95

Product code: IF145-002-1
Apple Part #: 922-5065

Product Overview

The original Black "stick" Spudger, manufactured in Chino, California. Beware of poor imitations coming out of China! Made of Vulcanized Fiber to be solder/heat resistant.

It has often been postulated that the spudger traces its inception back to the R&D labs at Apple. This is a lie.

Esteban Trabajo, a War of 1812 enthusiast, discovered the enigmatic stick during his travels in the 1960's. It is his belief that this seemingly harmless, little black stick was the key to Britain's victory against the Americans in the Second Battle of Lacolle Mills. The vulcanized fiber weapon was the brainchild of Commander Julian Groggsfellow III. Production for the little black stick was halted immediately after the Second Battle for fear it might fall into the hands of the French.

Today, the spudger, no longer used in battle, can be used for a variety of purposes when repairing electronic devices. It's a tough, antistatic tool, made of nylon, and has one flat and one pointed side. The pliable and antistatic properties make it ideal for preventing shocks and scratches.

The flat side can be used to disconnect connectors, remove thermal paste from a heat sink, pry off components, aid in soldering, or unscrew a MacBook's battery and contains a notch for hooking wires, while the pointed end can be used to connect/disconnect components, hold objects for soldering, or poke things that require poking.

We find this spudger to be the perfect size for most repairs. However, when you need a tougher prying/poking tool, we also carry our Heavy Duty Spudger, a more robust version of this tool.

Compatible with NSN 5120014450710

Product Details

  • Length: 6"
  • Material : Vulcanized Fiber

  $2.95

 
 

Condition:

New

Warranty:

One year warranty

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Stories

aggie4life's Story Photo #169568

My Problem

I chose to replace to Upper Case on my MacBook Pro "15 after a drink splashed across the keyboard, ultimately causing keys not to register. Sometimes I had to press the same key upwards of 4-5 times for the computer to recognize it. But since the repair cost over $350, I tried to get by with an external keyboard; however that didn't solve the prolbem. Occasionally a random key would be "pressed" or get "stuck" and keep repeating. (I did notice, however, that if I ran my hand across all the keys at once the problem with a "phantom" key press went away for a day or so, therefore I knew the built-in keyboard would have to be replaced.) And so finally I got fed up with the erratic behavior and ordered a new Upper Case. Not being under warrenty I decided to fix it myself as in the past it took (what I consider) far too long for AppleCare to fix another unrelated problem and I didn't want to be without a computer for that length of time.

My Fix

Replaced the Upper case. All in all I would consider it to be a fairly painless process as it only took maybe 2.5 hours to tear down and rebuild the entire system. I was able to carry out every step published in the guide to replacing the Upper case on a "15 MacBook Pro (mid-2010).

My Advice

Assuming your follow the guide on iFixit.com to a tee... while undoing each set of screws at any particular point, label them with the step number you're currently on by taping them to a post-it note with that number written down (the step number displayed in the guide). (A little photo is attached if what I'm writing doesn't make any sense). The extra time spent labeling each set of screws was well worth it when it came time to put them back in. (I can actually say I didn't have a single extra or missing screw.)

Also, don't trash your old Upper Case right after you finish disassembling the thing. There was at least one piece I needed that didn't come with the new case, found at step 35. In the guide it's called the "optical drive bracket" and required to put the 4.5 mm Phillips screw circled "red" back in place.

One other piece of advise is to make sure you get ALL the connectors hidden around where the logic board goes, pulled out and into the open before reattaching it (the logic board). I had to unscrew the board 2-3 times as various connectors were discovered "missing" later on.

One final piece of advice is to make sure the Upper case and screen match up when closed. The very first step in reassembly is to attach the screen to the Upper case with six screws. Don't tighten them fully until you've opened and closed the lid and made sure the case and screen line up. (Mine is off by about a millimeter when closed.) And since this is the very first step in reassembly you can't go back to fix any alignment issues unless you're willing to take the entire thing apart again.

All in all it's very doable if you don't mind spending a little time working with small parts. (I've take a few iBooks, an an iMac apart so I kind of had an idea of what I was getting into before hand.)

BEST PIECE OF ADVICE: LABEL EVERYTHING, its worth it in the end.

fmfdhf's Story Photo #169351

My Problem

500 GB hard drive was slowly failing. I restored the system to an external HD. Then I used Disk Tools to erase the internal disk and write zeros; that apparently caused a fatal failure, so I knew the disk was bad. I used the ifixit repair guide for the EMC 2210, which is quite detailed.

My Fix

Successful. I opened up the imac twice. First time, I replaced the HD successfully with a new 1 TB drive. About 3 hours from opening up to putting back the glass screen. ( I took time to vacuum and use canned air to remove the dust inside. I was relieved to see how easily the glass came off using your suction cups.) However, as the computer warmed up, the fans started running continuously at full speed. Using the Apple Hardware Test, I got the error code:

4SNS/1/40000000:T00P-132.000. It took some time for me to track down what this means. The "SNS" indicates a sensor problem. The T00P indicates that the thermal sensor attached to the optical disk drive isn't working properly. As the ODD is next to the HD, I may have disturbed its sensor. I took apart the Imac again, carefully checking connections inside along the way. I removed the small screws of the ODD, per your replacement guide for the ODD, and swung it out to see the thermal sensor assembly on the underside. I found that the sensor assembly had lifted partially from the ODD, so that the sensor itself was no longer resting against the ODD. Hence the absence of readings from it. Apparently, the sensor assembly had loosened up over the years (perhaps it had not been attached at the factory with adequate pressure). My replacing the HD, which involved untaping the thermal sensor wires from the chassis for both the HD and ODD, may have added another perturbation that pried the ODD sensor loose. Fortunately the glue on the ODD sensor bracket is thick enough and pliable that it was sufficient to press it back on the ODD, and it seems to be holding fine. I reassembled the imac (another ~3 hour start to finish, as I went carefully). Everything (HD and fans) works fine so far.

My Advice

Your guides are very good and seem very accurate. On my imac I found that the Phillips #1 didn't remove the access door covering the memory slots. You need a #2, and that is what my "Everything Mac" manual indicates. But the center point of the screwdriver cannot be too long, or the Phillips blades will not gain purchase on the screw: its center depression is shallow. It would be helpful to have a full picture in your guides showing the inside after removing the LCD screen, indicating the relative placement of the drives, boards, power supply, etc. Here is one I took of mine.

My Problem

Had a customer needing an iMac taken apart to put in a hard drive.

My Fix

It was very simple, and the suction cups were mandatory for this endeavor.

My Advice

The video that went with it explained the process. Pretty simple all in all.

My Problem

My phone was out of warranty and the speaker didn't work anymore when I talked on the phone. It was probably water damage.

My Fix

The repair was easier than I expected and successful. It took about 30 minutes.

My Advice

Follow the steps, be organized, look out for catching loose wires and connectors when you replace components.

My Problem

My old white MacBook was given to my yellow lab to run her kennel cam (http://www.livestream.com/sophiedays) but after a couple years running in the shed, the fan died and the computer would automatically shut down after it heated up too much. With parts and repair guide in hand from iFixit, the computer was restored to full health and I can once again keep an eye on my best friend during the day.

My Fix

I've used iFixit repair guides -- and parts - several times over the years and always found the guides perfectly detailed to make the repairs as simple as possible. This one was no exception. Great guides, good selection of parts, and great prices. What could be better for the Do-it-yourself fix-it guys?

My Advice

Any MacBook or MacBook Pro repair will benefit from having a good set of small drivers (including a selection of Torx bits and multi sizes of phillips heads) and of course, a Spudger is handy in SO many ways -- always have a couple on hand !

My Problem

Had to replace the battery in my 3GS, phone was dying anytime it wasn't plugged into a charger, even if the battery said 100% it would die and I would have to put it on a charger to get it to turn back on

My Fix

Was nervous that I would end up with a paperweight, but it went very smooth, I just followed the guide every step of the way, the only hiccup I had was that I do not own a hair dryer, so removing the old battery took longer than expected, that "mild" adhesive they have on there seemed like it could hold a car together lol, but I finally pried it out and everything else went perfect, the phone is acting like it did the day I first got it!

My Advice

The tip about a magnet for the screws was an awesome idea! They are so small and I know I would have lost half of them if not for that tip! So thank you so much whoever thought of it, also use a hair dryer to loosen the glue holding the olds battery in, it took me about an extra 10 min. Just to get the old battery out, do it the easy way if you can

My Problem

My macbook would be running perfectly happily, both on battery & on mains, and then it would suddenly "forget" it had a battery. The indicator would say "no battery", the lights on the side of the macbook would all flash. Taking the battery out & putting it back in whilst the mac was running would fix it!

My Fix

Without the guide, and the spudger, it would have been tricky... but with both of those things it was smooth sailing.

Nothing interesting to add, I just followed the guide :-)

My Advice

The spudger is my new best friend!

My Problem

Both sides were cracked & scratched badly.

My Fix

Replaced both parts with those received from Ifixit. Repair went well.

My Advice

Before replacing the front display, get organized and familiar with the Ifixit repair instructions.

I wrote a full report on May 19th.

My Problem

Both sides were cracked & scratched badly.

My Fix

Replaced both parts with those received from Ifixit. Repair went well.

My Advice

Before replacing the front display, get organized and familiar with the Ifixit repair instructions.

I wrote a full report on May 19th.

My Problem

The home button on the phone was not working.

My Fix

the repair went a bit bananas at the begining. I replace the part and one of the internal cables was not doing good contact so i could not use the slide functionality on the screen. I reopen the iphone and connect carefully the cables again. Then it works.

Iphone 3g works like new.

I can see that the screen is not the same type as the original one but it work so i will survive.

My Advice

it si a challenge but it was fun.