iFixit

Rear-facing camera comes out of its recess.

Removing the board containing the volume control and silent/screen rotation lock button.

On this little board the AGD8 2103 gyroscope rears its pretty little head, next door to the LIS331DLH accelerometer, both by STMicroelectronics.

After removing a screw securing the front-facing camera assembly to the case and peeling off a little more adhesive, the assembly can be removed.

The front-facing camera assembly includes the camera, headphone jack, and microphone.

Front-facing camera.

Microphone.

Removing the two screws securing the dock connector to the case.

After removing a few screws, the speaker assembly lifts out of the case.

The speakers are very small, almost as though they were added as an afterthought.

iPad 2 Repairability Score: 2 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)

The LCD is really easy to remove once the front panel is gone.

Only standard Phillips screws were used -- no Pentalobular or Tri-Wing funny-business.

The front panel is now glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass when trying to remove it.

The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of it being shattered during disassembly.

The battery is very securely stuck down to rear case, and you have to remove the logic board to remove it.

You can't access the front panel's connector until you remove the LCD.

Historical note: We initially awarded the iPad 2 a 4 out of 10, but in the process of writing our repair manual realized that it was far more difficult to repair than originally suspected.