Image #1

Add Note Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • The backside of the board, however, boasts no dramatic improvements:

    • Broadcom BCM5974 Touch Screen Controller

    • Broadcom BCM5973A1 Touch Screen Controller

    • Texas Instruments CD3240B0 Touch Screen Line Driver

    • 2 x 4Gb Elpida LP DDR2 = 1 GB DRAM in separate packages in a 64-bit configuration

    • 2 x Fairchild BCHAH/FDMC Voltage Regulator / Reference

    • Murata 339S0171 Broadcom BCM4334 WiFi Module

Image #1

Add Note Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Apple didn't save any space by switching to the smaller Lightning connector (lower); rather they let the Lightning cable sit in a frame the same size as the 30-pin dock connector (upper).

Image #1 Image #2 Image #3

Add Note Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • If you're new to our site, we'll let you in on a little secret: we love our 54 Bit Driver Kit. It makes quick work freeing the Lightning connector, even with a couple of hard to find screws.

  • There is a bit of adhesive holding the connector in, but nothing compared to some adhered components we've seen before.

  • Repair techs, DIY-ers, and clumsy iPad-users, rejoice! The Lightning connector is on its very own ribbon cable, meaning that procuring a replacement connector should be fairly inexpensive.

Image #1 Image #2

Add Note Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Despite looking almost identical in this shot, we do spot one more difference between the 3rd (top) and 4th (bottom) generations: the front-facing camera!

  • We've got a 1.2MP FaceTime HD camera, with the ability to shoot 720p HD video. That's a big improvement from the .3MP FaceTime camera in the iPad 3.

  • Compared to the iPad 3, this camera is actually slightly thicker (an extra .4 mm), but it still manages to fit into the same space.

Image #1

Add Note Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • iPad 4 Repairability Score: 2 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)

    • The LCD is easy to remove once the front panel is gone.

    • The battery is not soldered to the logic board, making the replacement process a tad less difficult.

    • Just like in the iPad 2 & 3, the front panel is glued to the rest of the device, greatly increasing the chances of cracking the glass when trying to remove it.

    • Gobs, gobs, and gobs of adhesive hold everything in place, including the prone-to-start-a-fire-if-punctured battery.

    • The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing chances of it being shattered during disassembly.

    • You can't access the front panel's connector until you remove the LCD.

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