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Add Note Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • The front bezel is attached to the camera's chassis by a number of easy to release tabs.

  • Using a spudger or plastic opening tool and starting at the top of the camera, work your way around the camera's body and release the tabs holding the front bezel to the chassis. The tabs should require almost no effort to separate.

  • The bottom of the camera is a little trickier to get apart. It is held in place by three tabs on the lens side of the camera. Using a plastic opening tool or spudger, work your way along the seam while gently lifting up on the bezel. It may take a few tries to get all of the tabs to release.

  • Once the tabs have been released, the front bezel will simply lift off the camera. The approximate locations of the tabs are indicated by the yellow boxes.

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Add Note Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Now that the camera's outer casing has been removed, we are ready to begin disassembling the camera's inner workings.

  • Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the single small black Phillips screw just to the right of the mode selection dial.

  • Once the screw has been removed, the entire LCD and control board assembly will hinge up to the right. Be careful as it is still connected to the main logic board by two ribbon connectors.

  • Using your finger or a plastic spudger, carefully lift the black tabs on the two ribbon connectors shown in green. The ribbon cables can then be removed from the logic board and the entire LCD and control board assembly can be lifted free of the camera.

  • The proprietary Sony I/O port connector is attached to the main logic board by a single ribbon cable. Using a spudger, gently lift the black tab on the connector and remove the ribbon cable. The I/O port can now be removed.

  • If you are replacing a cracked LCD panel, you can easily do so at this point. This is also one of the most common things besides the lens that is broken on a camera.

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Add Note Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remember that shockingly pesky flash capacitor that you (hopefully) avoided contact with before? That's it, just to the left of the lens assembly. You'll want to avoid touching it if possible since the leads are exposed beneath the white plastic tape.

  • Using a plastic spudger, carefully lift up the black foam tape which covers the capacitor leads.

  • Once the pink and blue wires are free, carefully lift the capacitor housing out of the way and set it above the rest of the camera. It will still be attached to the camera but is at least out of the way.

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Add Note Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Gently lift the black tabs which hold the two ribbon cables connecting the lens assembly to the main logic board using your finger or a plastic spudger.

  • The lens assembly is held in place solely by the ribbon cables at this point. Once you have removed the ribbons, the entire lens assembly will easily lift free of the rest of the camera.

  • The lens assembly is a sealed unit and I don't recommend opening it unless you have a clean room or don't plan to use the camera again. The pieces inside are very tiny and sensitive to any dust. If it's damaged, it's best to replace this component.

  • To access the CCD, remove the two small Phillips screws indicated by the green circles. If there are any dark spots in pictures, this can often be caused by dust on the CCD. Cleaning it can often help to resolve these issues. Again, you only want to do this in an extremely clean environment.

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Add Note Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • By this point, very little of the camera is still assembled. Next, we're going to remove the top panel and accompanying electronics. The only things left on the chassis are the battery compartment and the main logic board.

  • With the camera lying face down, begin by removing the small Phillips screw indicated by the red circle.

  • Turn the camera so that you are looking at the front. Using your finger or a plastic spudger, release the tab near the upper left corner.

  • Be careful when removing the top assembly. It is still connected to the chassis via a ribbon cable. Using a spudger, gently lift up on the black tab to release the ribbon connector.

  • You can now separate the top assembly. This assembly contains the flash bulb as well as the power and shutter buttons. The flash capacitor is also connected to it, so be very careful when handling this piece.

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Add Note Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • You're done! The camera is now disassembled into its basic components. When you consider how much repair shops charge for labor on cameras, it isn't really that difficult to open it up and replace parts yourself.

  • Some observations and thoughts:

    • There are very few screws holding the camera together. It seems to mostly be held together internally simply by its density.

    • Considering the complexity of its functions, there aren't many actual parts inside of the camera. Most of the largest parts are for interfacing with the user.

    • A pleasant surprise: when I started this teardown, the lens would not extend or retract properly. After simply reassembling/realigning the parts and doing a basic cleaning, it seems to work normally again. Go figure!

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