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Spudger

$2.95

Product code: IF145-002
Apple Part #: 922-5065

Product Overview

Safely poke and pry just about anything.

A spudger is a tough antistatic tool that can be used for a variety of purposes when repairing electronic devices. The 5" tool is made of nylon and has one flat end and one pointed end. The pliable and antistatic properties make it ideal for working around sensitive electronic components without fear of shocking or scratching them.

The pointed flat side can be used to disconnect connectors, remove thermal paste from a heat sink, pry off components, aid in soldering, or just to unscrew a MacBook's battery. The pointed end of the spudger can be used to connect/disconnect components, hold objects for soldering, or poke something that requires poking. The tool also includes a notch for hooking wires.

We find this spudger to be the perfect size for most repairs. However, when you need a tougher prying/poking tool, we also carry our Heavy Duty Spudger, a more robust version of this tool. This product is included in a lot of our toolkits, but it's especially helpful in the Pro Tech Toolkit and Soldering Workstation.

Compatible with Apple's "Black Stick", Apple part number 922-5065

Product Details

$2.95

 
 

Condition:

New

Warranty:

One year warranty

$149.95 100/pack

 
 

Condition:

New

Warranty:

One year warranty

Notes:

Repair Shops, Schools, Manufacturers, or anyone else who uses lots of spudgers, save with our 100 pack.

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Stories

My Problem

Clorox Wipe + Trackpad = No Bueno

My Fix

15 mins start to finish, instructions were on point

My Advice

Keep Clorox Wipes away from your trackpad, kids. And if you don't, ifixit is the place to go

My Problem

I wanted to squeeze a few more years out of this computer as it fit my needs very well, and the 24" screen size is just right for my office. The only problem was that my iMac seemed sluggish compared to my 2010 MacBook Pro which I had upgraded with a SanDisk Extreme SSD 2 years before. That upgrade was game-changing and made my laptop feel like a new computer! I worried that the upgrade to my iMac might be more of a challenge than I had bargained for, but I gathered my courage and decided to take the plunge by replacing the rarely used optical drive with a 480GB SanDisk SSD Extreme II, which was on sale at Amazon for $259.

My Fix

Everything went very well except for two issues.

The biggest of the two problems I encountered was that the original optical drive enclosure mounting holes did not align properly with the 12.7 mm SATA optical bay drive enclosure I purchased from iFixIt. What should have been easy-peasy took me almost a half hour to get only 3 of the 4 screws into the enclosure. I satisfied myself that it was "good enough", but I was very disappointed that the drive enclosure was that far off. The otherwise excellent guide stops at removing the drive enclosure and removing the optical drive. There is no advice regarding any modification that may or may not be necessary to reinstall it or what to do if the screw holes don't align with the one provided by iFixIt.

For the record, I checked that the iFixIt enclosure was installed correctly and mounted correctly in the original optical drive bay. The screw holes were just off and as described above, making the mounting screws almost impossible to reinstall.

The other issue was reinstalling the power supply cable. Disconnecting it the way the guide suggested was straightforward, but reinstalling it was a challenge for my adult-sized fingers. I decided to loosen the power supply by removing the 4 screws that hold it in place. That gave me the ability to lift the power supply and get far better access to the connector.

My Advice

Use an icecube tray to keep the screws, pieces of tape, thermal sensors et al in place while you work. It makes reinstallation a snap!

If you can't get to the power supply connector during reassembly, loosen or remove the four screws that hold the power supply in place, lift it just enough to snap the connector back in place, then reinstall the 4 screws that hold it in place.

Buy a can of compressed air and carefully blow out all of the accumulated dust from the motherboard, fans, etc. Your computer will run cooler and you'll add years to it's life by making sure it's as dust free as possible. Accumulated dust makes components run hotter and fail sooner. Taking this rare opportunity to clean it with compressed air is something to take advantage of during the upgrade.

Be sure to thoroughly clean the display screen and the cover glass with something like ScreenKleen during reassembly. You don't want a fingerprint, smudge or piece of dust to be on it or you'll see it every time you turn on the computer!

My Problem

Super drive would not read disks or skipped. Drive speed would ramp and down and then spit the disk out with an error.

My Fix

Took about 20 minutes to replace the drive. The online guide was very helpful in replacing the superdrive.

My Advice

I would not recommend the Phillips #00 screwdriver Ifixit sells as it did not seat into the screws in the drive (or the back cover) causing the bit on the driver to strip out. I ended up going to Sears and buying a driver. The battery screw driver and spudger worked very well.

My advice, get the proper tools and follow the guide if you need to replace a cd/dvd superdrive in a mac book pro. You can't go wrong as long as you are a bit cautious on the connector handling and follow the directions.

My Problem

I fixed it myself mainly because the "repair centers" around here charge as much as the phone cost for any kind of service, and they usually do a crappy job doing it.

Second i don't like throwing a gadget away just because ONE button is not working anymore.

My Fix

The repair got through quite smoothly, a bit of trouble unscrewing the lock button but everything went well in the end. Nevertheless it seems like the button was not the problem but the power sensor that is pressed by the button.

My Advice

Better make sure to have an accurate diagnose before buying spare parts.

My Problem

Upon visiting the Apple store to complain about the useless power button that mysteriously stopped working on my iPhone, I was told that my only option was to purchase an expensive "out of warranty" replacement. Fortunately, after researching the problem, I chose to buy a repair kit from iFixit instead!

My Fix

The repair process went well, although it was nerve-wracking trying to make sure that I didn't lose any of those tiny screws. It took about two hours, but that included redoing a few steps that I didn't get quite right the first time around. All I can say is thank you so much for the detailed guide! I have a working power button now!!

My Advice

Definitely need a lot of light to see what you're doing. I'd recommend a head lamp. :)

carlislebrandon's Story Photo #340239

My Problem

It was a rough week for my Surface RT, apparently, as it decided to stop recognizing its own battery in an existential sort of way. Very meta. Good timing as well--one week past warranty.

(When on, it showed a battery error icon in the tray. Once the battery died, the charger light didn't turn on when plugged in)

My Fix

Firstly: Ebay is full of spare parts from sketchy vendors. Luckily, I decided to unplug and re-plug the battery and charger port first, before hastily buying anything else. Worked great!

I used this guide: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Su...

Took about 45 minutes total. The hardest part was removing the plastic camera cover with the spudger. The tolerances were too tight to fit the spudger into the crack and I ended up *very carefully* using a knife to work the far right edge up (looking at it from the back). Once I got that up, it was straightforward to carefully pry the camera cover up. It is fairly flexible and even though it warped a bit during removal, it never broke and was easy to bend back into shape during re-install. There was one tricky spot, though: unlike the "tabs" around the edges of the cover, there is a "post" that holds the camera cover in place immediately to the left of the hold button. It must be lifted directly up (not "back") to be removed. This took some force and placing too much leverage on it from the rest of the cover resulted in slightly creasing the cover.

My Advice

I think I covered most of it above.

Use a couple magnets to hold onto the screws for you while you work. I used a magnetic paperclip holder. There are several different lengths and some of them have locktite on them, so try not to get them all mixed up

Don't be afraid to try this! My friends all thought I was crazy, but I was careful and confident and it all worked out.

My Problem

We have an early 2009 model 24" iMac that had recently started to perform very slowly. It only had 4gb of RAM and the hard drive was getting a little noisy so I was concerned that it might go out soon. I decided to try both maxing out the RAM at 8gb and swapping out the HDD for a solid state drive.

My Fix

The repair went swimmingly with the guide I found on iFixit for replacing the hard drive in a 20" early 2009 model iMac. Found here: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+2...

The repair took about an hour, and probably would have been shorter if I hadn't had to reposition the solid state drive in it's special chassis a few times to make the cables reach.

My Advice

Wear gloves and try to handle the front "glass" and display as little as possible. This will make cleanup prior to re-installation much easier. The cabling is a tad more complicated on the 24" model, but still very manageable, just remember to hook everything back up as you re-assemble!

My Problem

Like a lot of others, thought I had a bad hard drive but it was the SATA cable.

My Fix

Very easy, the tutorials were great! Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

My Advice

When you put the new SATA kit in, make sure you note how the sticky part of the cable under the batter should fit/lay on BEFORE you start.

My Problem

I had an '07 iMac and for various reasons (free upgrade, iCloud, iWork, etc.) I upgraded from 10.6 Snow Leopard to 10.9 Mavericks. While they are compatible, 10.9 slowed my machine down quite a bit. I was considering buying a new machine, but I feel like this one still has some life left in it. It still had the stock 250GB HD and given how Mavericks uses the hard drive I figured a 2TB upgrade would help improve the speed. It's a much smaller investment and if it didn't help it would at least make the iMac more 'sellable' to help pay for a new machine. It ended up being just the trick. The machine now feels as fast as it did with Snow Leopard installed.

My Fix

I've upgraded many Macs and this was one of the easiest. A newer iMac might have been trickier with the front glass glued in place, but the suction cups opened this one up as easily as a G3 tower. Some people said suction cups weren't necessary, but they were totally worth it. The whole thing went so fast I forgot to take any pictures! My only obstacle was the T6. I thought I had one, but it was a T5. I only needed it for two screws so Murphy's law said one of them was the screw that would be nice and tight. I ended up sacrificing my T5 by filing the tip of the tapered bit off, essentially making it a T6/T7-ish bit (T6.5?). After that everything went very smoothly. I was upgraded, reassembled, and restoring from a Time Machine backup in about 20 minutes. Counting clearing off my desk and the T6 obstacle, the whole thing took about 40 minutes.

My Advice

I had an extra pill case with a compartment for each day of the week. I used it to hold the screws as a went along with one compartment for each step. Made it much easier to go backwards for reassembly. I also worked with the iMac on it's back and the top of the screen facing me. I think this actually made it easier to remove the hard drive this way by just bracing my fingers and using my thumbs the release the drive. Of course, it also meant all the pictures in the guide were 'upside-down,' but I managed to find a everything. Having the guide on display on my iPad really helped.

My Problem

I fixed my iPod jack because it would not make connection anymore

My Fix

I broke the glass at the left side while open the I pod now the screen is a bit blurry but further everything works perfect!!!

My Advice

be careful while open it surely witht the glass side