If that was one of the pins, then your screwed.

This phone is almost certainly still carrier-locked to Boost; the U mark indicates it is a carrier SKU sold to the carrier to resell which ends up SIM-locked (for obvious reasons). 1U is the same as the U phones in this regard, so both are SIM-locked and sometimes used interchangeably as needed. The ONLY phones from Samsung without a SIM lock are the U1 phones which cannot be carrier-locked to anyone due to how the radio firmware works on these; they will refuse to lock to a carrier as the command is disabled at the radio level.

Samsung uses the same line for all of their phones with the same boards; the differences are in the ROM, radio firmware being tweaked a bit and carrier-locked status. Generally, U phones are sold "locked" and were done that way at the factory, 1U can be locked at the factory, a dialer command I don't know or care to, or based on the first SIM installed (the carrier who sold it to you, similar to the Apple reseller flex policy used by every reseller except Apple unless it is financed through AT&T).

Hi @pan64870

It could also be a faulty eDP cable (fractured in the hinge perhaps)

Here's the hardware maintenance manual for the laptop.

Go to p.73 to view the procedure to remove/replace the LCD panel (complete module includes the touchscreen)

Go to p.93 Item #2 to find the part number (FRU number) for all the panels compatible with the model. Note: A "T" in the name description for the panel indicates it is a touchscreen i.e. FHDT= Full High Definition Touchscreen, FHD = Full High Definition.

Search online using the part number only applicable to your laptop, to find suppliers that suit you best.

The eDP cable is Item #4.

Usually the part number is on the back of the panel if you wish to confirm that you're getting the correct one (also on the eDP cable somewhere as well)

Hi @zion86944

I'm having problems sourcing information regarding the refrigerator but check if you can hear a fan running inside the freezer compartment when the compressor motor is running.

With most refrigerators that have only one evaporator unit, there's a fan inside the freezer compartment located near the evaporator unit (behind a panel at the back of the compartment - access it through the door at the front of the refrigerator - i.e. remove the panel) and it blows air across the freezing evap unit and into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down to the desired temperature.

The freezer is cold because that's where the evap unit is located.

The fan should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The fan will run as long as the compressor is running as well.

If you can't hear the fan at all then there may be a problem with the fan, the power supply to the fan, the control board or it could be that the fan is completely iced up due to a defrost problem.

With auto defrost refrigerators (I don't know if yours is because I can't find any info on it) the compressor motor is stopped every 8-10 hours and the defrost heater under the evap unit is turned on to melt any accumulated ice off the unit to drain away.

The defrost cycle lasts for about 20-25 minutes after which the compressor is turned on again

If the fan is iced over then it could be due to a faulty defrost heater, defrost thermostat, defrost timer (or control board) or a blocked drain.

You may have more luck if you search for Hisense R-Z270AUK7K parts than I did. At least if you find any suppliers they might have a list of what parts are available if you do find out what's wrong.

Sorry that I can't be of more help.

Hi @earl73464

An Er IF error code in a Kenmore Elite indicates a problem with the ice fan in the freezer compartment.

The fan blows cold air through ducts in the door to cool the ice maker compartment.

It could be a problem with the fan or the control board

What is the model number of the refrigerator?.

Hi @v76515,

Disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then gain access to the underneath of the cabinet, at the back and vacuum all the dust from the condenser coils and check if that resolves the issue.

Here's a video that in general may help. (I couldn't find one for your model but they're all much the same when the condenser is underneath)

Please confirm the full model number of the refrigerator as there are 24 model variants. This is just in case parts are required and the correct ones need to be found

Mike Wolf, that looks like a TAB error. Sometimes applying some pressure to the binding on top of the LCD panel can resolve it. Most of the time a new panel is needed.

Hello there,

If you don't care about the data you could hard reset the phone in this way it will clear everything. Of course you will need to re-enter your google email account and password to verify that the phone is yours and after that just set it to be without fingerprint.

You can google how to hard reset Samsung Galaxy A23 5G to see for key combination.

Good Luck!

you will need to contact the previous owner and have them login to the icloud account and remove the association, either on the phone itself, or via either www.icloud.com or appleid.apple.com.

beyond that there is no permanent solution.

yes, you will find services and software offering to remove icloud accounts, it's all BS. these "solutions" involve jailbreaking the phone then installing a "bypass". but the phone will not behave like a normal phone (if i'm misstating some of these items, i welcome correction as a am not a jailbreaking expert). you will likely have issues with downloading and installing apps, you may have issues trying to use the only on you cellular service account, you cannot do auto upgrades the IOS, your device becomes more vulnerable to malware/hacking, battery drain/usage increases dramatically, it makes the overall IOS environment less stable meaning more crashes, and if you do upgrade the IOS or reset the phone, you have to re-jailbreak it again.

using jailbreaking to "fix" an icloud account is like (you may be too young to actually relate to this) watching TV before they had remote controls. you want to change the channel or change the volume or adjust the rabbit ears, you had to get out out of your chair, walk to the tv and do so manually - every time. sure it all worked, but it was horribly inconvenient compared to what a modern day TV remote can do for you.

if anyone has a better analogy, i welcome input on that regard as well. :)

bottom line, the only way to properly remove it is to have the icloud account owner do it