iPod Touch 4th Generation Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the battery in your iPod Touch 4th Generation.

Use this guide to replace the battery. Warning: This guide requires soldering.

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • The iPod Touch 4th Generation front panel is attached to the rear case by adhesive. The use of a heat gun to soften the adhesive is highly recommended.

  • With the heat gun set on "low", begin heating the lower portion of the Touch near the home button.

  • It is suggested to heat the desired portion in a circular motion pattern to evenly dissipate the amount of heat throughout the device.

Image #1

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Beware, as the Touch will be very hot. It may be helpful to hold it with a towel while prying.

  • Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the front glass panel and the plastic bezel near the home button.

  • Do not try to pry between the plastic bezel and the steel rear case.

  • Pry the bottom edge of the front panel upward, being careful not to bend the glass excessively.

  • If it is too difficult to pry up the front panel assembly, reheat it and try again.

Image #1

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • When there is enough room to grab the bottom edge of the front panel, lift it away from the body of the Touch to peel up the adhesive along its left and right edges.

  • If the adhesive is too difficult to separate, use a heat gun to soften it before proceeding.

Image #1

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Due to the construction of the 4th generation Touch, the digitizer cable cannot be disconnected until the logic board is removed. Use extreme caution when handling the front panel assembly, as it is attached to the rest of the Touch by the very delicate digitizer cable.

  • Also, the display data cable is very short and is connected to the logic board near the top of the front panel assembly. If it does not become disconnected while freeing the top edge of the front panel assembly, be sure to disconnect it with an iPod opening tool before rotating the front panel assembly out of the Touch.

  • Carefully pull the top of the front panel assembly away from the adhesive holding it to the Touch, minding the short digitizer cable connecting the two components.

Image #1

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the following eight Phillips #00 screws:

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 3.0 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.0 mm Phillips screws

Image #1

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the thin copper cover up from the rear-facing camera.

  • Note the small spring located near the bezel next to the camera (highlighted in yellow).

  • Remove the steel cover from the iPod.

Image #1

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool under the steel mid plane near the bottom left corner of the Touch.

  • Pry upward to separate the plate from the adhesive securing it to the plastic inner case.

  • If the plate is still attached to the logic board re-warm the area to loosen the adhesive, then separate the plate from the logic board using the opening tool

  • Use extreme care, the speaker is under the area shown in photo. It is connected with very thin and short wires.

  • There is a very thin ribbon cable here that connects the volume and power buttons to the logic board. Try to work around this area like shown so not to rip the cable. Be sure to hold down this cable when lifting the plate. It could stick to the plate due to residual glue. It is extremely fragile.

    • This cable will tear very easily if you are not careful.

    • There is also adhesive under the area shown in red.

Image #1

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Slightly tilt the steel mid plane to dislodge it from the rear case.

  • Be careful not to tear the piece of copper tape connecting the rear-facing camera to the steel mid plane.

  • Lift the steel mid plane up off the rear case and peel off the piece of copper tape stuck to the rear-facing camera.

Image #1

Edit Step 9 Headphone Jack  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to pry the headphone jack connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Image #1

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the headphone jack assembly to the rear case.

  • The screw is at a 90 degree angle. Make sure to remove it at such an angle.

Image #1

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to gently lift the edge of the headphone jack nearest the battery out of its recess.

  • Remove the headphone jack from its housing within the rear case.

Image #1

Edit Step 12 Upper Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws near the top edge of the logic board:

    • One 2.0 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

Image #1

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to gently pry, but not remove, the rear-facing camera away from the rear case.

  • Do not attempt to remove the rear-facing camera yet.

Image #1

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the edge of the logic board next to the battery enough to grab it with your other hand.

  • Do not excessively bend the logic board, as it is very thin and fragile.

  • Be very careful not to lift too much as the volume control ribbon cable is still connected and will tear very easily.

  • While gently lifting the logic board with one hand, use an iPod opening tool to lift the logic board near the copper tape at the logic board's top edge.

  • The logic board will be lifted adequately when the last display assembly connector has cleared the top edge of the rear case.

Image #1

Edit Step 15 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the iPod's speaker out of its recess in the outer case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the speaker. It is still soldered to the underside of the logic board.

  • Allow the speaker to rest above the battery so that you can proceed with battery installation.

Image #1

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • In the next few steps, you will loosen the adhesive from underneath the battery, the logic board, and the frame under the battery. Do this slowly, carefully, and evenly. Take care not to puncture the battery or bend the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry up the adhesive around the three exposed edges of the battery.

  • Do not try to pry the battery out, just start loosening the adhesive.

Image #1

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • After the edges of the battery are loosened, begin prying up the edge of the logic board. Start at the top and work your way down the side of the board.

  • To prevent bending/breaking the logic board, do not try to remove the logic board, yet. The dock connector is still embedded in the frame. Again, you are only trying to loosen more of the adhesive.

Image #1

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • With a plastic opening tool, carefully push the dock connector out of its outer case recess. Work each corner evenly until the connector comes free.

  • Since the dock connector is attached to the logic board, pushing it out of the case may cause the logic board to begin to flex. Take extra care not to permanently warp the board.

Image #1

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Once all of the adhesive is freed from under the logic board/battery assembly, lift the assembly up from the side and carefully rotate it over to access the underside of the battery.

  • The logic board is still attached to the rear case. Do not try to completely separate the assembly, or you will rip this ribbon cable.

Image #1

Edit Step 20 Battery  ¶ 

  • Grip the copper shield located on the bottom of the battery with one hand while firmly holding the battery with the other.

  • Carefully peel the copper shield up off the battery.

  • Do not rapidly peel the copper shield. Doing so may cause irreversible damage to the battery.

  • When installing a new battery, the copper shield must be as flat as possible. Otherwise the ruffled shield will add to the thickness of the battery and LCD combined.

Image #1

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • If necessary, use a plastic opening tool to peel the piece of yellow kapton tape located near the bottom of the battery.

Image #1

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • At this point, the battery should only be attached to the logic board by a single cable.

  • Rotate the battery up and away from the logic board.

  • Flip the assembly over to reveal the battery solder points.

Image #1

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • In the next few steps, you will desolder the three battery solder joints on the logic board.

  • Prior to desoldering the 3 leads, there may be some silicon/glue covering them. Remove as much as possible with a plastic or metal spudger (if metal, be extremely careful not to bridge the connections) before applying soldering tip to points.

Image #1

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • The battery on the fourth generation Touch is attached via solder pads with small holes that go through the battery ribbon cable and attach to flat pads on the face of the logic board. In this step, you will heat each solder pad individually while using a metal spudger to pry it up from the logic board.

  • DO NOT bridge the connection between the solder pads both on the board and on the ribbon cable with your spudger. Shorts have the potential to ruin the logic board.

  • Beware of overheating the board and the cable. Only hold the tip of the iron against the pad long enough to let the solder melt. Excess heat buildup has the potential to ruin the logic board or melt the ribbon cable.

  • Start working from the outside of the battery ribbon cable. Heat the outermost solder pad while gently prying up from under the ribbon cable to free it from the board. Repeat this process for each of the two remaining pads, working from the outside in.

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • At this point, the battery should be free from the logic board.

  • Remove the old battery from the logic board and set it aside.

Image #1

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Next, use the tip of a soldering iron to flatten out the solder on the logic board solder pads. The pictures show a 'before' and 'after' shot.

  • Remember not to heat up the pads too much.

Image #1

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Place the new battery in place and align the far contact with the outer solder pad. Use a small strip of electrical tape to hold the cable against the solder pads.

  • Installing the battery upside down (with the cable facing up) will destroy the logic board.

  • Place the strip of tape over the end of the battery ribbon cable to cover two of the solder pads and hold the contacts down against the logic board.

  • Heat the rightmost contact until the solder below melts, then apply a small amount of solder to the contact, allowing it to flow through the two holes in the cable and down to the logic board.

  • Do not apply too much solder. The amount required for a proper bond is miniscule.

  • As soon as the solder has flowed into the joint, remove both the solder and the iron.

Image #1

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Move the piece of tape so that it no longer covers the remaining two leads. If you are satisfied with the position of the cable relative to the pads on the board, proceed. If not, de-solder the first connection and try again.

  • Solder the two remaining pads to the logic board, being mindful of overheating the cable or board.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPod Touch 4th Generation device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Soldering Station

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Heat Gun

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Where do i get the best quality battery?

Dave, · Reply

Did it! Now screen is a bit funky when I press on the sides of the iPod. Although all seems good :)

Thanks iFixit!

Philipp Boulanov, · Reply

I followed this guide to the letter but the new battery only has half a charge and will not take a charge when plugged in. Any thoughts?

Bill Lee, · Reply

For those using rework stations, what temperatures are recommended for the iron & hot air blower?

Daniel Lott, · Reply

The following temperatures worked well for me:

150ºC hot air for softening adhesives.

290ºC for removing old solder.

Make sure to add liquid flux before removing all traces of old solder, & clean all surfaces.

Apply new flux to both sides of Kapton cables as well as the board. Set your iron temperature acording to the recommended setting for your ROHS electronics solder.

*DO NOT USE NON ROHS or lead bearing solder*

*DO NOT USE plumbing or acid core solder as this will destroy your electronics*

Daniel Lott,

To anybody who gets a white screen when trying to power on the device, all that is needed is a forced restart, just hold the home and power buttons until you get the apple logo

Hugh Powell, · Reply

Invaluable. especially re screw lengths-though how you tell a 2.3mm screw from a 2.4mm screw is a bit of a poser. Unsoldering the battery before folding the logic board out of the way worked for me. Unsoldering the old battery connections was difficult, though, as the battery fitted had the connections apparently covered in plastic. Didn't find any problems using leaded solder - certainly in UK it is allowed for repair work.

Steve, · Reply

Just to say, Thank you! :)

Marc, · Reply

I was a complete and total newbie. I replaced the battery and the screen with this tutorial. I accidentally missed a screw and I think that is why my volume down button didn't make it out alive but that was my only casualty. As I have never soldered before I watched a youtube video on soldering tips first and that helped my confidence. Overall it was very stressful but I have kids too which added to that, but it was a success! Thanks for this very detailed awesome guide!

Aimee Gordon, · Reply

Although these are very nice, detailed instructions, I ruined my Ipod on Step 19. If you do not lift the assembly carefully at this step, the FPC cable attached between the logic board and the case will tear VERY EASILY!

Carlos, · Reply

I just did this with (relative) ease, but I turned it back on yesterday and have had it plugged in the whole time, and it WILL NOT charge! It being my first ipod repair there were a number of casualties, but nothing I considered to be life or death...

1) internal speaker wire got sliced somehow, not even sure how...

2) ribbon cable to volume control completely separated (again, not even sure how)

How does the battery even get power? It's just soldered to the logic board....does electricity just go through the soldering/ribbon cable into/out of the battery?

Chris, · Reply

Hello, first of all, congratulations on the great guide!

I`d like to give a hint. You don`t NEED to go through all the steps to change the battery. You can skip STEPS 16 to 23. You don`t need to actually remove the logic board to change the battery. Just desolder the connections and pass the riboon below the board. That`ll save some time.

Another hint is BE CAREFUL with the heat gun. I used it too much and I think that I`ve damaged something. But it was my fault =[

Great guide, thanks!!

Luiz R, · Reply

after i have change a battery a have lost touch on the corner of the screen, tyhere is a way to fixc that or i have to change the sreen and lcd.

piergagne1, · Reply

I did the same thing and accidentally pulled the middle battery pad from the logic board. I know that I am supposed to gently remove the 'laquer' or 'shellac' covering around the area of the pad in order to expose the copper circuit underneath. I am just not sure which circuit I should be working with. A good closeup of the area to work on would be greatly apreciated.

ALF, · Reply

do I have to use a heat gun

Fabiola Winfield, · Reply

Hi, thanks to this tutorial achieves replace my iPod battery to 100%, it was difficult, so thanks iFixit!

The only problem I had was with the iFixit screwdriver disappointed me greatly, as it can not remove the screws with the screwdriver.

A tip for those who first make repairs before starting the disarmament carefully read through the tutorial to not make a mistake that could damage your iPod and do not forget to place pieces in a safe place so they are not lost.

Greetings from Guatemala

Alfonso.

Alfonso Espinoza, · Reply

Be careful with the heat gun!! Don`t use it too much. You can melt something inside, specially when you`re closing the iPod.

Luiz R, · Reply

No man you can use a blow dryer!

Colton B, · Reply

There should be (in general) better notes about the reassembly process. Getting the thing glued back in is WAY harder than just "reverse this step." Getting it to sit flush with any kind of adhesion is pretty difficult. No real advice other than make sure the edges of the metal thing at the top of the back of the digitizer are in the right slots and use judiciously placed pieces of 3M 300LSE adhesive.

jonathan, · Reply

I actually just figured it out. I had the ribbon cable for the digitizer running under the LCD and that wasn't allowing the LCD to sit down far enough. By re-folding the digitizer cable so it was triple-folded (when you do it you'll see what I mean) and only under the glass where there is no LCD, you'll get the glass to sit right.

jonathan, · Reply

I'm havin' problems with mine... hum, the front panel broke and i don't know where can i buy a new one. Can you help me?! Detail, the Touch screen still working... the external screen is broken, but the internal is ok...

Nathan, · Reply

EBay mate sells plenty

Greg W,

Glue is under the black part of the glass, not under the clear part of the glass.

The Glue is mostly around the top and bottom about 1/2 inch in or so, around both left and right edges the strip of glue is very thin about 1/8 inch or so.

I had success with heat and sliding the tool or pick up and down the side where there is less glue until it started separating being careful that I was between front glass panel and the black plastic bezel.

Evon Waters, · Reply

Take a look at the post http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...

That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.

asle, · Reply

The LCD cable which attaches to the logic board, is, indeed, very short. When reassembling the iPod, you may only be able to leave a small crack between the glass and the body to allow for enough space to reattach this cable. A plastic opening tool works well, but be warned: it takes quite a bit of patience.

reidbauer, · Reply

Indeed the LCD cable which attaches to the logic board is short and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to get it to seat. When I finally did I realized I broke the right side and that is why my display is not working now. When they say difficult, they mean difficult - I have experience with electronics and I recommend you first practice on an older unit if you can.

kitlammers, · Reply

Most guides recommend simply cutting the digitizer cable once you have disconnected the data cable. This makes things much simpler for subsequent steps rather than having the front panel dangling there.

bowlingb, · Reply

The antenna cable will almost always stick to the digitzer and often the glass is broken there. You can use a knife to pick out broken glass around the edges elsewhere but use ONLY PLASTIC tool to separate the antenna cable from the old digitzer. This cable is very thin and a metal tool can easily cut the cable which you cannot then repair but must buy a replacement.

asle, · Reply

If you are removing broken glass be sure to recover the steel plate glued to the top of glass as well as the home button at the bottom of the assembly.

Mark, · Reply

This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55811...

asle,

Be sure to get the tool down deep when removing the rear camera. If not, you can accidentally snag the mid-section of the camera and it will come apart -- and you'll end up buying a replacement.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.

asle,

This metal plate fits under plastic near RHS edge, and other side drops between the camera and a circuit board - to refit, you may need to loosen a nearby screw to allow you to move the circuit board a little to let this metal plate clip onto the side of the camera.

I had to press down hard with a plastic tool to get this metal plate to clip on.

Don't forget to re-tighten it later (I forgot).

phil colbourn, · Reply

A strip metallic cover, glued to display isn't mentioned in this guide.

Note that most new front panels are going without this part and you would need to remount it.

Daniel Filatov, · Reply

what exactly is the copper tape for that sits over the backplate that covers the rear camera? it gives me trouble every time.

yhwhelrey0, · Reply

The copper is important for heat dispensing. It has nothing to do with grounding or signal. In worst case if it is torn the Touch could get hotter but should work. If it is torn I usually just lift up one part and move it so it is in contact with the other copper part.

asle,

I just replaced the screen and rear cam on my 4th gen. The camera does not work??? Any ideas????????

mark, · Reply

Maybe the rear camera connection got loose when you lifted up the logic board in top to replace the digitizer. I would open it again and check the connection to the rear camera. Hope you fix it!

asle,

I couldn't get a spudger in-between this space, so I went to the side where the three screws were on the left hand side and worked my way towards the bottom to separate the glue...

Kevin Hulett, · Reply

The power and volume wire on the logic board were covered with adhesive. Be careful! While trying to remove the steel mid plane I found that the adhesive will rip the ribbon!

Chris Boenitz, · Reply

Here is where you take it easy. Two things can be broken here.

-Use time to carefully separate the bottom left part of the midplane. It sticks to the speaker which you tear the speaker leads if you are to hasty to lift it up. And remember the mid plane must not be bended up here since it needs to be 100% aligned so the new digitizer does not bulge here when in place.

- The second picture. The black visible adhesive sticks to the volume cable. Use time to carefully separate the mid plane here so the cable is not ripped when you lift up the midplane. Pry a plastic tool like the picture or/and a spudger slowly in until you see/feel the midplane loosening. A broken volume cable is no fun.

asle, · Reply

as stated before, be very careful with the part at the speaker.

the speaker actually sticks to the mid plane and i accidentally lifted it with the plane and separated one cable from the board!

stan, · Reply

That small ribbon cable ripped, be sure to really watch this - look at the second picture in this step and try to make sure you understand where it is on the board under it.

kitlammers, · Reply

This was difficult during both disassembly and reassembly. I used a thin guitar pick to separate the ribbon cable by the volume buttons from the steel midplane. Reassembly was tough because I didn't have the ipod dock connector seated correctly, AND more importantly, the speaker has a part that needs to be inserted into a black part on TOP of the dock connector-- it looks almost like a tiny air duct that has a foam gasket around it.

Nik, · Reply

I was able to replace the home button ribbon cable without having to fully remove the steel mid plane. It lifted up enough from the iPod's body that I was able to slip the ribbon in around the support it sticks to and hold it in place until the adhesive set.

Much simpler, and didn't cause any problems -- the mid plane didn't deform, and snapped right back into place.

Thanks for the guide.

jon, · Reply

I was able to stop at step 8 for the battery replacement.

Once you remove the metal shield, desolder the 3 leads. Then use your heat gun to warm the battery. Use plastic pry tool between copper backing and battery and separate them (two adhesive strips on the sides of the battery). Once done with this, you can snake the battery ribbon cable from between the logic board and aluminum casing. Not as easily, but still very doable, snake the new battery ribbon back through the same slot; solder 3 points and reassemble. Much easier than removing the entire board. Good luck!

Oh also, not mentioned in this guide - there is a plastic/silicon substance covering the 3 leads. Prior to desoldering remove this as much as possible with metal or plastic spudger (if metal, be sure not to bridge the connections).

Syl2us, · Reply

what do you do if you break the copper connector to the camera?

justinallison1, · Reply

The copper tape is mainly for heat dispersion. Without the copper tape it should work anyway but I would just lift up and move one part of the tape so that it is in contact with the other part when you put it together.

asle,

justinallison1, From what I understand, it is ok if that copper tape rips. In fact, I have seen people remove it completely. If it rips, just try and have the 2 pieces touching. (This is what I have researched and done myself with no negative results.

Katie Kousoulos, · Reply

after removed the steel mid plate, does anybody measure the battery voltage? I measured the battery voltage is only 0.3V. is it normal? I de-soldered the battery three points and measured the battery voltage 3.8V. So It looks like battery is OK. The logic board has problem. So I connected external power source 3.7V and maximum current 50mA to the battery B+ and B-. I found the power source dropped to only 1.65V and 50mA. Could I say logic board has problem?

William, · Reply

Be sure to note the way the ribbon cable bends between the connector and the rest of the jack assembly. Bending your new one in the same manner while hooking up the connector should make it a lot easier make the connection.

matthew r, · Reply

Can you use the same colour coding as with The above sizes? [HvL]

Hugo van Leeuwen, · Reply

These colors are too close together.. One red, two yellow.. Please.

playpets106, · Reply

Thanks for the comment! I adjusted that step, should be much easier to see now.

If you're ever having trouble seeing screw markers or other small details on a step, you can always view a larger version of the image with the "View Huge" link on the top left corner of the image.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg,

Can someone explain what the copper/ribbon is that the lower yellow marked screw goes through is for? Perhaps only heat dissipation? The ipod I have was given to me with much of the glass smashed and picked out, so some of this is just missing. Obviously I can't put it back...

hutchwilco, · Reply

When you insert your tool to remove the rear camera make sure you have the tip all the way in. You can accidentally grab the middle of the camera assembly and it will come apart - and you'll have to replace the entire camera.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

hi! i accidentally cut the copper adhesive on rear camera, and now it doesn't work: i start the app "camera" and it opens but still close the lens... can i fix it ? if yes, how? thanks

simone usala, · Reply

Use extreme caution when lifting the board. There are 2 ribbon cables that are extremely fragile, 1 connecting the rear facing camera and another connects the volume controller flex on the logic board.

Evon Waters, · Reply

Adding to Evon's comment:

BEFORE YOU LIFT UP THAT BOARD...

Use your plastic pry tool and make sure the flex cable, between the board and power button is not on top of the board. Take your time because even the slightest snag can tear that flex cable which leads to de-soldering/soldering the battery & flex cable.

Once the board is lifted the first time I usually put a piece of Kapton tape over that area of the cable in case it has to be pulled up again.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

Can you explain this in a little more detail?

I have done a dozen or more iPod screens without any issue. I have one here now that does nothing. Just a black screen. It won't even take a charge.

Should I simply desolder those pads and then resolder? Sort of like unplugging and replugging to reset something?

Thanks!

Rene

Rene Jeddore,

Ciao dopo aver seguito il tuo aiuto per come cambiare la batteria io ho rimontato tutto ma la barra di sblocco non scorre più o i comandi in quella altezza del touch , tutto il resto funziona perfettamente.Dove potrei aver sbagliato?

Potete aiutarmi grazie

salvatore sagone, · Reply

Make sure to use plenty of flux to avoid lifting pads

Craig, · Reply

READ ALL THE STEPS BEFORE YOU BEGIN

1. Do NOT use a metal spudger for this.

2. Cover surrounding components with Kapton tape.

3. Optional (if you found this tutorial and are replacing the volume/power flex cable and your battery is good) Cover two of the three leads with Kapton tape to avoid shorting a good battery.

6. Set your temperature on your soldering iron with a flat chisel tip.

7. Apply a little flux to a copper soldering braid.

8. Place the copper braid on the contact that you want to de-solder - you may need to lightly hold it steady with your thumb in place.

9. From the bottom of the cable very gently push up with your index finger.

10. With your other hand, the one with your iron, gently press down to melt the solder, as soon as the solder melts use your index finger to gently push the cable up so as to disconnect the cable from the solder pad. Wait about 15 seconds for the solder to cool.

11. Insert a piece of kapton tape between the cable and solder pad.

12. Repeat steps 7-12 for the remaining two contacts.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

FLUX WARNING:

If using flux, be sure to use 94%+ alcohol (once the battery is disconnected completely) to clean off any remaining flux. Don't try cleaning flux off until the battery is removed to avoid pushing debris between contacts and onto other components that will cause a short.

Rule of thumb, if power is flowing through a logic board don't apply alcohol or try to clean it. Always remove the power source then thoroughly clean. Pushing around small metal particles in alcohol while a device is "hot" is the fastest way to cause a short or electrical arching.

Country Computer Service, · Reply

Bonjour, j'Ai un gros problème, en enlevant la nappe, chaque connecteur a un morceau de nappe qui ne veux pas s'enlever, j'ai beau chauffé le métal mais je ne suis pas capable de les enlever, si quelqu'un pourrai m'aidé s.v.p.

Merci !

jonono2, · Reply

Hello, I have pulled the middle pad off my iPod 4th Generation how can i repair this?

Karl , · Reply

I did the same thing and accidentally pulled the middle battery pad from the logic board. I know that I am supposed to gently remove the 'laquer' or 'shellac' covering around the area of the pad in order to expose the copper circuit underneath. I am just not sure which circuit I should be working with. A good closeup of the area to work on would be greatly apreciated.

ALF,

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